RouteAbel's Extended Track Easy Entry - '10SS/TC build

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
I'm getting really close to having my wiring harness sorted out. I just need to figure out a couple last things such as how the turn signal wiring gets integrated.
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I still have this connector which I am pretty sure can be removed but I would like confirmation. This is up near the ignition. I think I had it originally marked as "steering column". Does anyone know what this is and can I remove it?
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Then I just need to decide what to do with the green and blue wires from the post above.

I also went to get my wheels mounted up. I found a problem with the paint on one of the wheels so I am trying to exchange it. The tires look absolutely huge. I might have gone a little too meaty.

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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
The tires look awesome!!!!!! Coming from someone who has 17X9's......

Isn't that little plug the one that goes to the key switch?
 

bradr

Well-Known Member
I still have this connector which I am pretty sure can be removed but I would like confirmation. This is up near the ignition. I think I had it originally marked as "steering column". Does anyone know what this is and can I remove it?
View attachment 14399
That is for the TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). As previously mentioned, it connects to the black ring that goes around the key cyl and needs to be hooked up for the car to start.
 

Rttoys

Well-Known Member
as the others stated, that connector goes to the VATS

That blue wire I think I ended up not knowing where it went either, so I left it in the harness and added a pice of colored tape to mark where it was, Incase it is needed later.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I know, I have you to blame. :) I think I read one of your posts somewhere that I will need a spacer in the rear?
Haven't got that far into my build yet, but by measurement and some fuzzy math it appears a 5mms spacer is what I determined to clear the struts. Since you're farther along, your experience with installing your wheels will determine how wrong I may be. ;)
 
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RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
Alright guys, you have been so helpful and I need your help one more time on the wiring.

For the turn signals I am lost on how they get tied in. I have all the turn signal switch connectors sorted but getting tripped up on the wiring to run to the mirrors. The video shows adding 2 orange (grounds) and 2 pink extensions and then pulling the green wires from the headlights. They show connecting the pink extensions to brown wires from the main harness. I don't have extra brown wires pulled aside. I do have two brown wires in my headlight connection bundles, are these the ones?

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So I would pull the green and brown from each headlamp? This would leave blue, yellow, and ground or blue, tan, and ground for the headlamps?
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
The new videos show how to extend those using yellow, white, green, and brown wires.
The green wires are for the turn signals. Thye will be combined with a red and an orange wire for each mirror.
Make sure you put the correct green wire to the driver side and passenger side so your turn signals will operate in the correct direction.
The orange wires will go to ground
The red wires will extend the brown wires that originally went to the side marker and park lamps or you can tap into the brown wire that goes to the headlights and hook it to your red wire.
You will not use the original headlamp plugs.
The white, yellow, and brown wires that were extended in the new videos get combined with a black ground for each headlight.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
The red wires will extend the brown wires that originally went to the side marker and park lamps or you can tap into the brown wire that goes to the headlights and hook it to your red wire.
Thank you Lonny. This is what I needed!
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
I had a really hard time getting the bearings installed into the struts. The bottom ones went in with only slightly more hammering than shown in the DF video, but the top ones on both struts really fought me. I was resorting to so much hammering I was starting to mar stuff but no matter what they would just bind.

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Went to see if my neighbor had a press but he gave me a better idea. I put the inner bearing in the freezer and the strut end on top of the stove. After a couple minutes the first one dropped right in with no hammering. The second one still fought me but I was able to hammer it in place using a socket.

On to the next challenge...figuring out how to move the wheel hub studs. I had DF redrill my hubs but they don't move the studs. It isn't obvious to me how the studs are attached. Do I just need to hammer or press them out?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Put a block of wood on top of each one, then hammer it out. You can draw them into the new positions by taking a wheel and fitting the wheel hub onto it, while tightening up the lugnuts.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Also, I found the rear wheel hubs (on the Goblin, that is) to be more difficult to hammer out just due to the shape of the hub, plus having to turn it to properly get at all the studs. I had success in using three blocks of wood: two to act as a platform to rest the hub on, and one to act as the hammering surface.
 

Rttoys

Well-Known Member
If you are getting new wheels and lugs, use the old lugs as sacrificial. Screw a lug on and beat out the studs with a hammer. Grab a nut that’s larger than the stud and put it over the stud. Use old lug to pull in the stud using an impact.
 

Attachments

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I had a really hard time getting the bearings installed into the struts. The bottom ones went in with only slightly more hammering than shown in the DF video, but the top ones on both struts really fought me. I was resorting to so much hammering I was starting to mar stuff but no matter what they would just bind.

View attachment 14593

Went to see if my neighbor had a press but he gave me a better idea. I put the inner bearing in the freezer and the strut end on top of the stove. After a couple minutes the first one dropped right in with no hammering. The second one still fought me but I was able to hammer it in place using a socket.
I just did this over the weekend, myself. One of my bearings resisted a little bit but the other three just fell right in.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
I just did this over the weekend, myself. One of my bearings resisted a little bit but the other three just fell right in.
I wonder if the difference in ambient temperature explains it. Its been 100 degrees out and my garage is about the same.
 
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