Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
I have a mity vac and a Schwarben vacuum extractor, so I tried them when I couldn't get fluid. Once I got fluid, I used the standard 2-man pump/hold method. I just hooked up the vacuum ones to try and get fluid, but I prefer the regular method for bleeding.

The Schwarben is great for quick oil changes on the ATVs and lawnmowers.
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
After bleeding the brakes I focused on the clutch, which was a limp noodle. I unbolted the reservoir again and raised it to make sure I didn't have air in the clutch hose. Still nothing. So I popped the hose from the clutch MC, pressed the clutch, and reattached the hose.

When I pressed the clutch again it took a big gulp and the reservoir level dropped quite a bit and the pedal instantly stiffened up. I topped it off and proceeded to bleed it using Lonny's instructions I found on the forum. It worked just as Lonny described:
  • The clutch is a little different. First, you will bleed the system from the clutch master cylinder to the bleeder then you will bleed the air from the slave cylinder.
  • Hook the hose to the bleeder and open it about a 1/4 turn just like when bleeding your brakes.
  • For non-turbo manuals, you will smoothly pump the clutch pedal until fluid comes out with no bubbles.
  • Close the bleeder why the pedal is still down.
  • Now we need to bleed the slave cylinder. With the bleeder closed have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down.
  • Open the bleeder and watch for bubbles and then close the bleeder. Repeat this step until no bubbles come out.
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
Any tips for shift cable setup or initial wheel alignment?

I am going to use the string method to get the wheels all pointing in the right direction enough to get it somewhere for an alignment, but I wasn't sure if there are any tips for using that method or a better method entirely.

I've tried searching for shift cable install posts but I am not finding much. Are there any tips or instructions for the initial settings or adjustment of the shift cables?
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
I got a set of toe plates and a angle finder. It’s worked out great. I’ve done my alignment several times and it drives great
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
Any tips for shift cable setup or initial wheel alignment?

I am going to use the string method to get the wheels all pointing in the right direction enough to get it somewhere for an alignment, but I wasn't sure if there are any tips for using that method or a better method entirely

 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
It's hard to keep up with updates once the big stuff gets crossed off the list.

After getting the brakes and clutch bled, I started working on all the small things on my list. I managed to break both a tap and a screw off in my tunnel cap install. I went with tapped holes to use 4mm pan head screws. I was getting lazy and used the screw gun and ripped the head off a screw midway through the middle section and then with just 2 holes left to tap on the rear section, I snapped the head off the tap.

I got the parking brake lines hooked up, which required more TLC on the tubes than I was planning. If all your parts are in good condition, it's a quick job. Not so quick when you are trying to put new cables through janky tubes.

I did notice the rear brakes seem almost locked up when I put the wheels on, so we'll need to watch that to see if it is going to be a problem. The fronts are fine, but the rears seem to be a lot harder to turn with the rear wheels fully tightened. I've taken them off and reinstalled them several times now and it's the same on both sides in the rear.

Gauge pod mount and miscellaneous wiring have been addressed, but I still have lights and mirrors to wire in.

I've had this thing on jack stands for so long that I forgot how low they sit when they are actually back on the ground.

33020


My Montana registration packet was mailed off today, so I'm hoping to have my temporary plates by early June. I did have to fill out a 'Fact Sheet' (MV121) that I hadn't seen anywhere else. It was provided to me by my Agent. I've attached it in case anyone is curious as to what it looks like.

I hope to tackle the alignment later this week.

I'm trying to decide if I am painting, wrapping, or powder coating my wing's endplates. I don't want to spend too much effort though as I'm not sure how long the Amazon wing will remain installed.

33019
 

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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
My rear wheels did the same thing. Turns out, the centering ring wasn’t sitting flush against the spindle which made the rotor also not sit flush. When everything was tightened down, the rotor was pushing against the brake caliper bracket and wouldn’t spin.

Solution was to shave very little off the inside of the 3d printed centering ring to get it over the center bore and sit completely flush
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
My rear wheels did the same thing. Turns out, the centering ring wasn’t sitting flush against the spindle which made the rotor also not sit flush. When everything was tightened down, the rotor was pushing against the brake caliper bracket and wouldn’t spin.

Solution was to shave very little off the inside of the 3d printed centering ring to get it over the center bore and sit completely flush
Dumb question: Centering ring?

I have rings for my wheels that I bought separately, but it sounds like you are talking about a ring for the rotors. Is this something DF supplies in the kit?
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Yes, the ebrake kit uses the rotors from a solstice which have a larger center bore. DF 3D prints black centering rings for the rotors so they stay hub centric. It would’ve came with your ebrake kit.
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
Yes, the ebrake kit uses the rotors from a solstice which have a larger center bore. DF 3D prints black centering rings for the rotors so they stay hub centric. It would’ve came with your ebrake kit.
At least I have something to go look for now, as I am certain I didn't use any rings on my rear brakes.

The parts pile is dwindling yet it seems harder to find things, which doesn't make sense. lol
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
I need to get my order in for HP Tuners but I'm still not sure I know if I need the MPVI2+ or that plus the Pro Feature Set.

I am using an AEM Uego AFR gauge and want to be able to log with it. I've always been behind with understanding how the 5v reference wire from the AC was incorporated and thought that was used to make a normal O2 sensor act like an AFR gauge, but I still see t referenced when talking about other AFR gauges.

I thought I could just run the serial connection from my AEM gauge through a USB adapter to my laptop, but all my research just has me confused about what I actually need.
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
Yes, and under the How to...Wideband O2, section 3, it sounds like I'm looking at options 1 (serial>USB connection to laptop) or 2 (Pro feature set).

I have not tuned with HP Tuners nor on the Ecotec platform before, so I'm not sure what works in the Goblin world.

If the serial connection works, I'll save the buck$ and not get Pro, but if this has already proved to be a futile effort I'll spend the monie$ and avoid the headache.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I would save the money on pro and go with 3. The collective “we” on here can walk you through the using the ac connection. The problem with the first 2 options, and especially #2, is you will have to disconnect every time you tune and you don’t want that additional hassle when tuning.
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
Is there a trick to getting the tow bar to line up?

The driver side lines up fine and I can get the pin started on the passenger side, but it's quite a ways off. I tried rotating the mount but it just doesn't seem square.
 

Sluggonaut

Well-Known Member
At least I have something to go look for now, as I am certain I didn't use any rings on my rear brakes.

The parts pile is dwindling yet it seems harder to find things, which doesn't make sense. lol
I do not have any rings in my remaining parts. I'm assuming they look like hub-centric rings used on wheels, but I'm not seeing anything like that.
 

baustin

Well-Known Member
Is there a trick to getting the tow bar to line up?

The driver side lines up fine and I can get the pin started on the passenger side, but it's quite a ways off. I tried rotating the mount but it just doesn't seem square.
Before I tightened the bolts on my goblin where the tow bar connects, I pinned on the tow bar. Then once the mounting bolts were tight, I removed the tow bar. I removed the pins with the hitch end on the ground, just like I have the tow bar when I start to put it back on the goblin. If the pins were tights when removing, I used 1 wrench to slightly turn the bolt till the pin slid easily out of the brackets; if it's tough to remove them then it will be even tougher to reinstall.

My eyes tell me the 2 brackets are slightly out of parallel on my goblin, very close but not quite parallel to each other and the ground.
 
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