Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
First start on the first try...so relieved.

I was a little anxious to check to see if the throttle was working; otherwise, it ran fine. I did grab the wrong gas tank and put my lawnmower's 87 in the tank instead of the E85 I ran out to get yesterday.

I was going to try to start it last night but when I filled the reservoir with coolant, I noticed a leak at the thermostat housing. The spring clamp was off the edge of the hose and I had a mess to deal with. After failing to get it adjusted and sealed back up, I worked a worm clamp in there and was able to fix it. I just need to remember to pull the spring clamp off the thermostat housing next time I have it apart.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I have the typical run-on issue when the ignition is turned off. I also found the thread with the link to the diodes to use.

However, I do not have my heat exchanger fan installed because I am using just the NACA ducts.

Do I need to still put a diode on the positive wire for the fan that's not installed? I just have the positive and ground wires for the heat exchanger fan folded up, heat shrunk, and zip-tied to my harness for future use.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
I don’t have any fans wired in at the moment and I don’t have a run on issue. Was your radiator fan running by chance?
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I don’t have any fans wired in at the moment and I don’t have a run on issue. Was your radiator fan running by chance?
I didn't notice but I wouldn't expect it to be running, as I had it running for less than a minute or so.

That was my next question, what other circuits typically cause this problem?

r3drckt said:
He’s an LSJ donor though, shouldn’t have the intercooler run on issue since it was factory.
Correct, I am using the factory wiring for my IC pump. I did extend the power/ground for the IC pump during the wiring videos, but these wires are wrapped up and zip-tied in the rear just like the HE fan wires up front. Figured I may need them for something at some point.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Brake reservoir installed and connected to the clutch/master cylinder.

32734


What is the function of the nipple on the top next to the cap? I don't recall anything being connected to this on the donor:

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Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I've started the car a few more times to clear some codes and see which ones come back. I have not had the run-on problem since the first start so that no longer seems to be an issue.

I used the wrong gas can and was getting current faults of P0449 & P0452 (EVAP faults) and pending faults of P0103 & P0443. After draining the 87 octane and putting in E85 that the car is tuned for, I cleared the codes and now just have the pending faults of P0103 and P0452. It is idling much smoother and no longer drowning in 87.

Looking back at the codes I recorded from the donor, it had current faults of P0463 (Fuel Level Sensor) which was fixed with the new fuel pump, and pending faults of P0103 and P0455.

P0455 was likely fixed with the new gas cap I put on the Goblin. When I replaced the fuel pump that had a broken neck at the top of the pump itself, I got a new fuel level sensor and it addressed P0463.

I assume the EVAP codes are from the system being removed in the Goblin.

P0103 sounds like it can be a lot of different things. I was wondering if anyone had experience with the P0103 code. I was actually expecting more codes than this.

Also, did anyone else have trouble getting the axle seal (wheel seal?) installed? It's becoming quite the pain to get installed.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
P0103 is a MAF high volume code. Make sure you installed the maf in the correct direction. There’s an arrow on the sensor, it should be pointing the direction of air flow.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
P0103 is a MAF high volume code. Make sure you installed the maf in the correct direction. There’s an arrow on the sensor, it should be pointing the direction of air flow.
I'm fairly certain it's installed correctly but I will double-check it. It had the same code in Cobalt mode and it ran fine. I'm wondering if it is the setting in HPT I've seen some posts about, where something needs to be set higher than 10k Hz. I don't have HPT yet but will be ordering it soon.

I'm just not sure I understand the setting and what it's used for or if that is even my problem.
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
I'm fairly certain it's installed correctly but I will double-check it. It had the same code in Cobalt mode and it ran fine. I'm wondering if it is the setting in HPT I've seen some posts about, where something needs to be set higher than 10k Hz. I don't have HPT yet but will be ordering it soon.

I'm just not sure I understand the setting and what it's used for or if that is even my problem.
I had the same code in my cobalt before it evolved. The car will run off base map when it has a faulty map sensor. If the MAF is bad it will run when it’s unplugged. I replaced my MAF just to try and it cleared the code
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
P0103 is a MAF high volume code. Make sure you installed the maf in the correct direction. There’s an arrow on the sensor, it should be pointing the direction of air flow.
Confirmed the MAF is installed correctly. I expected it with the code being there in the donor, just curious if it is a bad MAF or something else. I think I'll learn more once I start driving and checking the current tune.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I was able to get the axle seal installed. I don't have a seal install tool so I made my own. After trying a large socket with only a ruined seal to show for it, I brought my other seal to Menards to build the right tool.

A 2"x1" Bushing, a 1" PVC Male Adapter, and a 1" PVC Plug turned into the following tool:

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It fit the seal perfectly and after a few swings with the dead blow, I switched to the 3 pounder and it was in with 2 swift swings. The PVC didn't crack and the entire seal snugged up flush.

My new axles came with axle nuts, but my donor axles used washers and nuts. Should I be re-using the washers on the new axles?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Did you 'save big money' with your purchase at Menards? Kinda miss it, their prices on many things were always cheaper than Lowes or Home Depot.

Yes, use the washers from the donor axles, if they clean up well enough.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Did you 'save big money' with your purchase at Menards? Kinda miss it, their prices on many things were always cheaper than Lowes or Home Depot.

Yes, use the washers from the donor axles, if they clean up well enough.
You know I did. I even have a $0.66 rebate to send in for the never-ending 11% rebate they're still running.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I had a problem with bleeding my brakes and didn't find any similar issues in my searches, so I will list the issue and resolution here.

My donor was a 2007 SS/SC so I received all new brakes all the way around. The only thing from the donor was the master cylinder and reservoir. I have the early model brake setup and everything installed pretty easily using pics from the forum as a guide.

I filled the reservoir and tried to bleed the brakes but couldn't get fluid from any corner. I tried gravity and vacuum methods but got nothing. I cracked the front MC connector open and heard a ton of air suck through to the front passenger wheel where I had the vacuum bleeder connected. I then got fluid squirting from the front connection. I tried the same with the rear connection but I couldn't get any fluid to come out even when pressing the pedal.

I figured the MC needed to be bench-bled and no local parts stores had the kit so I had to wait on Amazon. I got the kit tonight and bench-bled the MC on the car. It took several pumps to get fluid flowing from the rear connector but it finally filled up. I was able to bleed the brakes after reconnecting everything.

Now I just need to tear everything off the top of the trans again so I can access the clutch and get it bled.

Bolted on some stuff in between swearing at the brakes:

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