Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

[Rttoys]

I was thinking heat/ice too.

could put something like a 2x4 or 2x6 on the bottom and jack it up with a jack until you have a little pressure, then the with a 2x4 on top try and whack it with a hammer.

 

[Josh's09]

Unfortunately, I am just a home builder with basic tools. I don't think it is too much to expect brand new parts from the same manufacturer to fit together out of the box. We're not talking about tolerance stack between parts from different manufacturers - these are parts built, boxed, and sold by the same company. Issues happen in manufacturing and as long as manufacturers make an effort to correct quality issues it's no big deal.

However, to suggest the issue was caused by someone else as the first step in addressing the problem even though it is a known issue is not acceptable. Taking over 3 weeks to do something you said you would do and needing multiple follow-ups to do so is also inexcusable. After this experience, I won't be using anything QA1 again if I can help it.

I am glad I am not the only one dealing with this issue. I have found this to be the case with my set of shocks as well

 

[finazzoty]

Hey @Sluggonaut, finally got my stuff plumbed up. Here’s the vent tube from the valve cover. It goes straight to the turbo housing according to zzp’s install instructions for the z54 and z57 turbo. I’d assume your ko4 is similar. If not, then put a catch can on that port (oil line from valve cover to catch can, filter on outlet port of catch can).
View attachment 31677

I forgone the option B tank as there wasn’t much room for it with the swooping corners I had to do with the straight hose I had to avoid kinks. It put the lines higher than I wanted to mount the option B tank. So I reused the Factory fill neck and it’s the highest point in the system.
View attachment 31678View attachment 31679View attachment 31680

Did you also have clearance issues when mounting the turbo to the exhaust manifold? My Z54 comes in contact with the manifold very slightly (this is without the heat shield on the manifold. With the heat shield installed, the turbo really cannot be mounted.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Did you also have clearance issues when mounting the turbo to the exhaust manifold? My Z54 comes in contact with the manifold very slightly (this is without the heat shield on the manifold. With the heat shield installed, the turbo really cannot be mounted.

I did not have any clearance issues. My donor was turbo-swapped so the only adjustments I had to make when installing the motor was to re-clock my K04 to clear the frame. However, I probably wouldn't have even needed to do that had I found the shorter intake flange provided in DF's turbo kit prior to bolting the motor in.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Build Log Chapter 2

Now that the garage is starting to warm up a little bit, I'm starting on my laundry list of off-season projects. In no particular order, this list includes:

• Brake Proportioning Valve install
• Trickle Charger Port install
• Front Splitter
• Footwell Cover
• Timing Chain (water pump and laminova core cleaning while I'm in there)
• Boost Controller Install

I did notice I had 3 different engine coolant drip spots under the car after it's been sitting for a couple of months. My son stopped by with his pressure tester and the cooling system held pressure for over 45 minutes without any drop in PSI. How is that possible? lol

I've isolated the sources to one of the oil cooler hose connections, somewhere on the water pump (it is dripping off a bolt on the back of the pump), and the passenger side frame connection. At least 2 of the 3 should just be hose clamps, but not sure about the drop from the water pump. I'll check it out when I replace the water pump. I'm considering replacing the oil cooler since I will have everything apart and the current one has 140k miles on it, but I am not sure how often those fail.

So for the second year in a row, I'll be putting in a couple of hours of work on the Goblin each night in hopes of having it on the road in time for the arrival of Goblin-driving weather.

 

[Chris_WNC]

I had a couple of coolant leaks on mine after the cold winter too. I found a few hose clamps that could use a bit more tightening. There was one small puddle that I could not find a dang source for. It's been driving me crazy.


CHRIS

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Maybe it's your Goblin marking its territory - Harleys and big dogs do it too!

 

[Sluggonaut]

Started back into the off-season work by disconnecting everything between the subframe assembly and the chassis. I plan to drop the whole backend in one piece to preserve my alignment and minimize work a little.

However, I soon realized I was going to have to pull the seats and the tunnel cover in order to get to the IC hoses to disconnect them, as there is no easy way to do it from above or below with the subframe still attached to the trans. This should also make maneuvering the wire harness a little easier. I just hope I don't need to drill out the firewall rivets too.

After getting the seats out I'm wondering if dropping the subframe by itself and redoing the alignment would have been easier. I forgot what a pain the seats and harnesses were.

On the bright side, I get to clean up the mess a single season made under, around, and behind the seats. I picked up a lot of this towing the Goblin through all of the harvest dust on my way down to Goblinfest last year:

I also made sure to label everything again while disconnecting - I'm sure I missed something though:

 

[Sluggonaut]

Using rivets on the tunnel cap is the quickest method while building, but if you ever plan to take the cap off go with rivnuts. Drilling out rivets can be a real pain. Finally got them drilled out though:

 

[Sluggonaut]

It's been a while since I have been able to address my "winter" projects. I was able to get the subframe assembly separated from the chassis tonight.

I'll definitely need a second hand when I go to mate these halves back together again to make sure wires and hoses go back where they're supposed to go.

I'll be getting started on several projects this weekend and hope to finish in a couple of weeks.

As dirty as the interior was behind and under the seats, the subframe is worse. It will be nice to be driving a clean car again in a few weeks.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I pushed to get the timing chain set replaced tonight but ran into a roadblock pretty quickly with the crank sprocket. I couldn't get it off and can't find my jaw-type puller to get it off. I knew things were too good to be true when I found my pulley puller too quickly earlier in the evening to get the pulley off. All of the timing gear appears to be intact and in decent shape, so no plastic or guide bolt parts are bouncing around anywhere.

I moved on to cleaning up the intake manifold and laminova cores. I found all the cores to be in perfect shape except for one - looks like someone used pliers on it previously. Is there any way to fix or fill gouges like this?

I was expecting them to be much dirtier. I still used a toothbrush to try and get some dirt off but the brake clean was still clear in my pan after spraying and brushing these. I just have some concerns over the one end on one core that is boogered up.

Once I can find my jaw pullers and get the crank sprocket off, I hope to be able to finish the timing chain and water pump replacement fairly quickly.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Good and bad - good the scrapes are not all the way across the sealing surface, bad they will reduce the sealing surface. Light filing to remove any raised burrs on the surface is probably the best you can do without resorting to more drastic measures. Do you know if they leaked at all before disassembly? Maybe a little extra silicone on the seals to fill the scratches?

 

[Sluggonaut]

I suspected a slight leak due to some minor HE circuit coolant consumption over the course of the season. I've seen some people use dielectric grease to lube the o-rings during installation - would a healthier dose of grease on the o-ring on that end help at all?

 

[snirtman]

I was expecting them to be much dirtier. I still used a toothbrush to try and get some dirt off but the brake clean was still clear in my pan after spraying and brushing these.

As I recall, I had about the same result cleaning with brake cleaner (ineffective). I had better results soaking the cores in a bath of water and Dawn dish soap, then "drying" with compressed air. Rinse and repeat. The dishwater was pretty dirty afterward. The cores didn't look like new when done, but far better than when I started.

While the cores are out, take the opportunity to clean out the intake. Mine had an ounce or two of oil I literally poured out. Also, if you already have the intake manifold off, pull out the PCV valve and give it a good cleaning too. Easy and free preventive maintenance - my favorite kind.

 

[Sluggonaut]

As I recall, I had about the same result cleaning with brake cleaner (ineffective). I had better results soaking the cores in a bath of water and Dawn dish soap, then "drying" with compressed air. Rinse and repeat. The dishwater was pretty dirty afterward. The cores didn't look like new when done, but far better than when I started.

While the cores are out, take the opportunity to clean out the intake. Mine had an ounce or two of oil I literally poured out. Also, if you already have the intake manifold off, pull out the PCV valve and give it a good cleaning too. Easy and free preventive maintenance - my favorite kind.

What did you use to clean the PCV valve? I realized it's impossible to find now, so cleaning it is a good idea.

I had some oily residue by the ports but that cleaned up easily with brake cleaner. I think the intake manifold was serviced on the donor fairly close to when I bought it, as it didn't look like it had 140k miles of crud built up.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

What did you use to clean the PCV valve? I realized it's impossible to find now, so cleaning it is a good idea.

I had some oily residue by the ports but that cleaned up easily with brake cleaner. I think the intake manifold was serviced on the donor fairly close to when I bought it, as it didn't look like it had 140k miles of crud built up.

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[Dale E]

Ask Lonny if he has any. I gave him a box with a few in it for the SS SC and the turbo model engines.

 

[snirtman]

What did you use to clean the PCV valve?

Pretty sure I cleaned mine with brake cleaner. I followed this video and it worked out well.

 

[Dale E]

@Sluggonaut -- if your Goblin is a turbo model it has a different PCV than the one posted before for the Saab. Rock auto shows they have the turbo ones for an 2008 model 2.0.

But if you have the aftermarket turbo conversion, and have used the Supercharged intake bottom side, then you might use the Saab PCV.

The box I gave to Lonny had both SC and turbo model PCV.

 

[Sluggonaut]

@Sluggonaut -- if your Goblin is a turbo model it has a different PCV than the one posted before for the Saab. Rock auto shows they have the turbo ones for an 2008 model 2.0.

But if you have the aftermarket turbo conversion, and have used the Supercharged intake bottom side, then you might use the Saab PCV.

The box I gave to Lonny had both SC and turbo model PCV.

Mine is the entry-level turbo swap from ZZP, so I have the stock LSJ intake - hence the laminova cores mentioned above.

I don't suspect my PCV valve is bad, but I was going to replace it if it was a normally available/priced item. I'm not at a point to pay $45 for a PCV valve or ask Lonny yet, I'll clean this one and re-use it.