Okay, thanks for that. I tried the upright the other direction but it didn't look right to me then, but I guess it looks even less right when compared to the photos you sent to me.
No. Thankfully, Nothing broke. Slow speed turns felt pretty good, but high speed turns were very awkward. Then, it got a death wobble when trying to slow down from highway speeds, that almost put me in a ditch. That was enough for me.Is a broken steering bracket how you know?
I would not recommend drilling extra holes.
I drilled the knuckle.Did you drill the steering arm or the knuckle? I drilled a new hole on the knuckle to lower the steering arm.
It was very scientific. Haha. I had the arm in the top hole up front and pushed the arm down until it hit the nut that holds the hub in the back. Marked and drilled. This brought the tie rod down a good ways, but it also brought it forward, which is probably where the problem lies. This also made it possible for me to turn enough to make my wheel hit the control arm (I would have corrected that with steering stops).How did you determine where to drill? I haven't had any problems with mine.
I’m not sure that the position of the “L” bracket really matters if you got the alignment where to want it without screwing the heim joints out to much.You guys got me wondering if I installed mine correctly. Here is a pic of my right wheel then Adam's left wheel.
View attachment 37371 View attachment 37370
When Dale & I checked bump steer, I needed to go a little lower than I currently am... but if I flipped the upright, I'm pretty sure it would be too low.
That looks like it will be close to where I ended up.Ok, idea time. If a 3rd steering arm mount hole is drilled on the caliper mount side of the upright nearest the largest lightening hole, at the same 1/2 inch center-to-center spacing and in the correct arc spacing to the opposite side, the following positions are possible for the right side up - pink dot and line - or the purple dot and line. The pink line is 3/8 inch lower than the original red line (lowest right side up upright orientation) or 1/2 inch lower (uppermost upside down orientation). This would give more options to achieve help minimize bumpsteer.
Basically, we a talking about different ways to remove bump steer.
Theoretically, when the suspension rises and falls, the wheels don't move left or right (My edit) independently from steering inputs. Essentially hitting a bump, the steering wheel is held straight, but the car wants to dart left or right.