V1 2007 SS sc coolant hose route

[ctuinstra]

799-640853 -6ANX3/8SAE FEM LT1 BLACK
555-100613 READY MADE HOSE #6 X 3'

Jegs.com
Need 2 of the connectors. I kinda messed up and should have bought this house it is the same as above but with black fittings just for looks.
555-110613

Thanks. I like the black also. The reason I couldn't find it is that I was searching specifically for "fuel" hose. I assume that hose if rated for pressurized fuel.

 

[Andy]

Yeah it is good for 1500 psi and is rated for fuel, oil, or pretty much anything from the description on jegs.

 

[ctuinstra]

Sorry for jacking this thread. Promise to be my list post hear about this. I've been computer shopping and really like this setup. 2' of hose to a inline fuel pressure gauge and then another foot to the fuel rail. Kind of expensive setup, but this would be the only real bling on the car.

 

[Sho]

I got her going! ...finally! Seems all data lines were ok. I found the issue by accident by hitting a thought 12v line (gets 12v by testing it to a ground) and hit a ground and I heard the fuel pump run for a second. Then temporarily hooked that line up to a known ground and bam! Everything works... who would of known a line that gets 12v is supposed to get grounded...?

But now have cel issues. Getting the emissions code and I’m guessing it’s the little vacuum pump. I’m not sure where the open port is supposed to go but there is suction on that open port.

Thoughts?

 

[JSATX]

View attachment 2813 I got her going! ...finally! Seems all data lines were ok. I found the issue by accident by hitting a thought 12v line (gets 12v by testing it to a ground) and hit a ground and I heard the fuel pump run for a second. Then temporarily hooked that line up to a known ground and bam! Everything works... who would of known a line that gets 12v is supposed to get grounded...?

But now have cel issues. Getting the emissions code and I’m guessing it’s the little vacuum pump. I’m not sure where the open port is supposed to go but there is suction on that open port.

Thoughts?

That’s your EVAP valve. It vents the gas tank and I think most people have removed it. I don’t know how you’d hook it up with a Goblin fuel tank.

For what it’s worth removing it throws an error code that can’t be erased. So maybe try hooking it up to the tank brass vent? I don’t remember how it hooked up in the cobalt but that’s the first thing I’d look into if you want to keep it.

 

[Sho]

So car runs intermittently... The issue is the fuel pump (new). I have tested the relay and seems good. for good measure i swapped it out for the A/C clutch relay which is the same relay.
Some times the pump primes fine and dandy and car starts just fine and stays running. Sometimes the pump will not kick on at all and starter will just run. SOMETIMES the pump will prime, car will start, then car will stall out because fuel pump quit right after priming?

Im "pretty" sure that it isn't the relay or fuse (good) thats causing the issue. Could this still be the data cable issue? or are there some other things that could cause this type of behavior? (theft deterrent/something activating kill switch?)

Please let me know!
Thanks.

 

[ctuinstra]

Can you measure the voltage going to the pump to make sure it's electrical? Measure the power side and if you are getting 12V and the pump is NOT working then measure the ground to make sure it has a good ground. If the problem is losing the 12v to the pump, it will have to be farther up the line. You already changed out the relay, so it would have to be farther back up the line from there.

 

[Sho]

Can you measure the voltage going to the pump to make sure it's electrical? Measure the power side and if you are getting 12V and the pump is NOT working then measure the ground to make sure it has a good ground. If the problem is losing the 12v to the pump, it will have to be farther up the line. You already changed out the relay, so it would have to be farther back up the line from there.

So I messing with the other relays that "may" have to do with the fuel pump. As in; Crank, Crank/start?, PWTN...ect bent the contacts a little to make better contact... and the car started up right away... I dont have a diagram to confirm but it seems like one of these crank or pwtn relays give power over to the fuel pump possibly? If so I may want to purchase new relays for these as well... (not sure if no good contact, or faulty relay)

 

[Sho]

ALSO!
Any of you guys have recommendations on smaller pulley size, manufacturer...ect?
Wanting to pull more boost without big modifications. I can replace injectors if needed be...
If you know if a post on here with that info or just want to share with me here let me know! THX

 

[JSATX]

When the key is turned to the on position the pump should run for two seconds.

You can rent a fuel pressure gauge from any autozone for free. Also make sure you don’t have air in your fuel rail. They will run rough for the first 10 minutes getting all the air out of the fuel.

 

[Andy]

I would look at the ZZP stage 2 kit. I did that with the phenolic intake spaces and the dual pass end plate. Basically a state 3 kit but I didn't need the intercooler. You can go with a smaller pulley but you will soon run into clearance issues on the SC snout and it will have to be machined. ZZP has a bunch of good info on their site there are a couple of other sites out there that make the state kits too. Choose the power you want or the mods you are willing to do or how deep your pockets are.

 

[Sho]

Anybody have negative camber issues? With stock suspension in rear? Easiest way to adjust at least so it’s not too bad going into a shop for alignment?

 

[Sho]

Another addition to the question above...
Anybody have sway issues? After getting up to speed (let’s say above 30) my car starts to sway with any little bump in the road. Gets worse with speed as well.
I have noticed that when I lift the rear end the wheels turn inwards. So maybe when I get some lift in the rear the inwards motion makes me sway...?
Anybody have a fix for this? I did save my sway bar out of the cobalt...

Please help! This is definitely a safety issue!

 

[TheNuker]

Another addition to the question above...
Anybody have sway issues? After getting up to speed (let’s say above 30) my car starts to sway with any little bump in the road. Gets worse with speed as well.
I have noticed that when I lift the rear end the wheels turn inwards. So maybe when I get some lift in the rear the inwards motion makes me sway...?
Anybody have a fix for this? I did save my sway bar out of the cobalt...

Please help! This is definitely a safety issue!

I did originally yes, A solid alignment and setting the front coilovers to a 5 or 6 setting helped a ton. I've been up to around 130-140 now and it feels very solid.

Nuker-

Before I had these things changed I was getting some scary bump steer. I was all over the road at 50-60mph.

 

[Sho]

I did originally yes, A solid alignment and setting the front coilovers to a 5 or 6 setting helped a ton. I've been up to around 130-140 now and it feels very solid.

Nuker-

Before I had these things changed I was getting some scary bump steer. I was all over the road at 50-60mph.

COOL! thanks for the reply.
Now Trying to fix the camber in the rear... Would cutting more of the coil and lowering the vehicle make the wheels more positive or negative? I guess I could add spacers/shims to raise if i need to go that way...

 

[JSATX]

I agree with nuker. You can not make ANY assessment of the car until a complete alignment is done.

But find a specialty shop. Don’t expect great results from discount tire or whatever.

The guy that did mine adjusted all the attachment points of the A arms and knuckles. Made a world of difference.

 

[JSATX]

COOL! thanks for the reply.
Now Trying to fix the camber in the rear... Would cutting more of the coil and lowering the vehicle make the wheels more positive or negative? I guess I could add spacers/shims to raise if i need to go that way...

Moog makes camber bolts for the cobalt.

 

[RichN]

I did originally yes, A solid alignment and setting the front coilovers to a 5 or 6 setting helped a ton. I've been up to around 130-140 now and it feels very solid.

Nuker-

Before I had these things changed I was getting some scary bump steer. I was all over the road at 50-60mph.

I did have an alignment shop do mine to the specs I found earlier on the forums. (My log page 5)
I am still having issues above 60.
Please explain setting the front coilovers to a 5 or 6? Thanks

 

[TheNuker]

I did have an alignment shop do mine to the specs I found earlier on the forums. (My log page 5)
I am still having issues above 60.
Please explain setting the front coilovers to a 5 or 6? Thanks

Lonny used the http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/8168...pWi4Qz0pTmCDVVZuPf2kpK_dF4fY0iMxoC4ZYQAvD_BwE

I can't recall off of my head what he dialed them into, On the front coilovers there is a stiffness adjustment knob, You are probably on the loosest softest setting, This caused me a ton of bump steer. Turn that up to a 5 or 6 stiffness. you will notice the front end does not bounce around much on that.

Nuker-

 

[DanPerryy]

What a beautiful build!!!