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V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
I installed the cluster that my friend 3D printed for me today. looks great, functions great.
I have a new question for the crowd: when does the intercooler fan turn on? (mine is hooked up to the blue radiator fan wire as instructed in the old wiring videos.) does it turn on when the water for the intercooler gets a certain temp? Or is it supposed to always be on if the key is on?
I’m also unsure if my intercooler pump is actually pumping. I’m going to get a sight glass with a spinny wheel to be able to see if it’s flowing. The pump is new, so in theory it should work…
I have a new question for the crowd: when does the intercooler fan turn on? (mine is hooked up to the blue radiator fan wire as instructed in the old wiring videos.) does it turn on when the water for the intercooler gets a certain temp? Or is it supposed to always be on if the key is on?
I’m also unsure if my intercooler pump is actually pumping. I’m going to get a sight glass with a spinny wheel to be able to see if it’s flowing. The pump is new, so in theory it should work…
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
I don't remember if this was the intended mode of operation but my intercooler fan(s) turn on with the fog light switch on the dash. DFKC did my harness and they leave a purple wire at the front (along the column) and at the back that's tied to the fog light relay. Since the fog lights would only turn on with the key in the on position, maybe give that a try?
By default the intercooler pump will only turn on 10s after engine start (time is adjustable), but you can turn it on manually from the VCM Scanner in HP Tuners. If you turn the key to the on position without starting the engine and then toggle it from your computer, you should be able to hear it running.
By default the intercooler pump will only turn on 10s after engine start (time is adjustable), but you can turn it on manually from the VCM Scanner in HP Tuners. If you turn the key to the on position without starting the engine and then toggle it from your computer, you should be able to hear it running.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
separate fan
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
There are 2 fans on a SC LSJ. One is the AC fan, the other is the ECT (engine coolant temperature) fan, but the 2 radiators go across both fans.
I wouldn't use the purple fog lights wire... The fog lights turn off when the headlights go on. The blue wire could work if you adjust the tables with HP Tuners, as the stock settings barely ever turn on.
277 HP Tuners setting for the radiator fans.
You could also use the intercooler pump wire and use it to trigger a relay for the intercooler fan. Like Rauq said, it turns on 10 seconds after the key is on, and stays on until you turn off the engine.
I wouldn't use the purple fog lights wire... The fog lights turn off when the headlights go on. The blue wire could work if you adjust the tables with HP Tuners, as the stock settings barely ever turn on.
277 HP Tuners setting for the radiator fans.
You could also use the intercooler pump wire and use it to trigger a relay for the intercooler fan. Like Rauq said, it turns on 10 seconds after the key is on, and stays on until you turn off the engine.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
Small correction, the fog lights turn off when the high beams are turned on, they remain on with the headlights.
Neither the LSJ nor the LNF had a separate fan for an intercooler from the factory, so a separate fan and power and wiring should be added on any forced induction build.
I set all of my intercooler fans on a relay turned on by power at the purple fog light power. I've never worried about IATs with the high beams on.
Neither the LSJ nor the LNF had a separate fan for an intercooler from the factory, so a separate fan and power and wiring should be added on any forced induction build.
I set all of my intercooler fans on a relay turned on by power at the purple fog light power. I've never worried about IATs with the high beams on.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Ok, i think i'm following everyone's train of thought here. I'm going to refer to the fan on the seperate coolant loop for the laminova cores as the "intercooler fan" just for my own sake. If i follow the instructions that you linked to lower the on temp threshold for "ECT", will this make the radiator and intercooler fan (mine is already attached to blue wire) turn on at the same time? Will this be a bad thing since I want the intercooler fan on always, and the engine coolant fan on only when needed?
I guess I originally thought I hooked up the intercooler fan to the blue wire with the resistor and forgot about it, but i'm learning there's a bit more to it.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
That’s how mine is run and I went into HPTuner and turned the 10 second delay to 0. Now, my two heat exchanger fans come on anytime it turn the key to run. While wiring the fan, be sure to do the diode trick to stop the run on issue. LSJ’s will continue running for about 5-10 seconds after turning off the ignition. The diode stops the back feed that causes this.
Radiator is on its own wire that comes on at 200 F. Also lowered in HPTuner. I think the stock kick on is 220 F.
Radiator is on its own wire that comes on at 200 F. Also lowered in HPTuner. I think the stock kick on is 220 F.
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
You will need to do testing to be sure it works correctly. I think the blue radiator wire is for the AC fan. Adjusting the ECT fan tables, will change the temperature that the engine fan turns on...but I'm not sure if the AC fan is completely separate from the ECT fan, or if they both come on.
Putting a relay on the intercooler pump seems easier to me, but maybe there is an unused circuit that is even easier... I traced the door locks circuit for someone recently. I think we ended up on the door window circuit off of the BCM C3 connector. Wish I remembered who's build log that was in.
Putting a relay on the intercooler pump seems easier to me, but maybe there is an unused circuit that is even easier... I traced the door locks circuit for someone recently. I think we ended up on the door window circuit off of the BCM C3 connector. Wish I remembered who's build log that was in.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
I think that was me about a page back.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Last week I took my goblin on a 600 mile round trip drive into Idaho and back again for memorial weekend. This drive was extremely fun since it was 90% river roads. However, I also realized I wanted to make a few changes down the road: 1) hood/windshield. The wind noise in my helmet was incredibly annoying and I feel these would remedy that issue. 2) new headlights. I got to Idaho and then was debating when to return back home when I found that both my headlights were blown. This forced me to avoid the evening/night. 3) aero. I ordered a 9-lives rear wing for the goblin and will do a front wing later.
An observation from this trip was that I burned a bunch of oil. I noticed on hot starts after fueling up during the drive, it’d smoke a bit for a second and then clear up from the exhaust. I wonder if my journal bearing seals are leaking some oil. I still have a crank case pressurization issue (I think) that I need to resolve. Current train of thought is to drive and enjoy it for the rest of this short Montana summer, and do some major changes this winter. These changes include a new air intake manifold system so I can redo the PCV system and rig up a proper catch cab system as well. Also an A2A intercooler that I haven’t decided where to mount, and an oil drain (from turbo) relocation to the block that I’ll have to drill and tap. For now, I’ll just keep topping off with oil when needed.
1 is a over-the-winter project that I’ll take on. 2 has been resolved with the purchase of some decent LEDs and an additional ground installed to both headlights. I figured the most likely cause of the blown bulbs was bad ground. It was either that or voltage surge, which I didn’t observe with my voltage meter. I went with LEDs because I felt the original bulbs in the Dominator headlights were pretty unimpressive in the brightness area.
Just waiting on the wing to ship. i purchased memorial day weekend and got a deal on free shipping.
Oh, and to backtrack to before memorial day weekend, I had installed new NGK Iridium spark plugs. I ordered these from ZZP as "1 step colder" and the part number of the plugs I received was BKR7EIX. I had autolites in there before I swapped these in. The autolites were gapped to 0.044" and these came out of the box at 0.030".
Sorry, I know this post was pretty much a bunch of rambling.
An observation from this trip was that I burned a bunch of oil. I noticed on hot starts after fueling up during the drive, it’d smoke a bit for a second and then clear up from the exhaust. I wonder if my journal bearing seals are leaking some oil. I still have a crank case pressurization issue (I think) that I need to resolve. Current train of thought is to drive and enjoy it for the rest of this short Montana summer, and do some major changes this winter. These changes include a new air intake manifold system so I can redo the PCV system and rig up a proper catch cab system as well. Also an A2A intercooler that I haven’t decided where to mount, and an oil drain (from turbo) relocation to the block that I’ll have to drill and tap. For now, I’ll just keep topping off with oil when needed.
1 is a over-the-winter project that I’ll take on. 2 has been resolved with the purchase of some decent LEDs and an additional ground installed to both headlights. I figured the most likely cause of the blown bulbs was bad ground. It was either that or voltage surge, which I didn’t observe with my voltage meter. I went with LEDs because I felt the original bulbs in the Dominator headlights were pretty unimpressive in the brightness area.
Just waiting on the wing to ship. i purchased memorial day weekend and got a deal on free shipping.
Oh, and to backtrack to before memorial day weekend, I had installed new NGK Iridium spark plugs. I ordered these from ZZP as "1 step colder" and the part number of the plugs I received was BKR7EIX. I had autolites in there before I swapped these in. The autolites were gapped to 0.044" and these came out of the box at 0.030".
Sorry, I know this post was pretty much a bunch of rambling.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Sitting here wondering about different ways to get rid of the PCV issue I have without replacing the PCV. I want to go A2A intercooler eventually, so It makes sense to get an aftermarket intake manifold, which would possibly make it easier to plumb in my own catch can/pcv system. The only aftermarket LSJ intake I'm aware of is what David is running from Dyemond Fab. Are you guys aware of any others? NGL I can't believe this one runs about $1K.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
My other thought is what i'd consider a temporary fix. I could install a cheap vented catch can to the valve cover and plug off any routes for unmetered air to enter the intake/turbo. What are yall's thoughts on this while I save up $ and scheme on how i'll go A2A later?
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
There are some SAAB 9.3 2.0 intake manifolds that can replace the LSJ laminova intake manifold, rather than spending $1k on an aftermarket manifold - unless you are dead set on buying one. Not certain of the PCV though, but it might be similar.
David
Goblin Guru
- David Goblin Guru
Like @Desert Sasqwatch said you can go the SAAB route. If you get the one for ZZP they already did the necessary porting that it requires.
zzperformance.com
Reason I didn't want to go that route is I wanted a way to be able to control how I ran my PCV system.
OTTP also makes one but the Dyemond is better.
LSJ Turbo Intake Manifold
On our LSJ turbo swap kit which uses this intake manifold, you will need to keep your MAP sensor- the one mounted on the intake manifold, as well as the barometric sensor that sits out in the open.
zzperformance.com
Reason I didn't want to go that route is I wanted a way to be able to control how I ran my PCV system.
OTTP also makes one but the Dyemond is better.
LSJ Turbo Intake Manifold
www.overthetopperformance.com
