V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457

[Rauq]

I had good results with the BKR7E recommended by ZZP.

With the understanding I have, this is just a bit over 30 psi, which I don't have plans of exceeding. so this is ok for my needs.

215kPa in the VE table is in absolute pressure, in terms of boost (absolute pressure - atmospheric pressure) is 215-101 = 114kPa or 31.2-14.7 = 16.5psi boost.

The MAP will see 255kPa which is about 22.3psi boost.

 

[newbtrying]

I installed the cluster that my friend 3D printed for me today. looks great, functions great.

I have a new question for the crowd: when does the intercooler fan turn on? (mine is hooked up to the blue radiator fan wire as instructed in the old wiring videos.) does it turn on when the water for the intercooler gets a certain temp? Or is it supposed to always be on if the key is on?

I’m also unsure if my intercooler pump is actually pumping. I’m going to get a sight glass with a spinny wheel to be able to see if it’s flowing. The pump is new, so in theory it should work…

 

[Rauq]

I don't remember if this was the intended mode of operation but my intercooler fan(s) turn on with the fog light switch on the dash. DFKC did my harness and they leave a purple wire at the front (along the column) and at the back that's tied to the fog light relay. Since the fog lights would only turn on with the key in the on position, maybe give that a try?

By default the intercooler pump will only turn on 10s after engine start (time is adjustable), but you can turn it on manually from the VCM Scanner in HP Tuners. If you turn the key to the on position without starting the engine and then toggle it from your computer, you should be able to hear it running.

 

[Gtstorey]

Is there a separate fan for the intercooler or just the radiator fan? I thought both the SC and TC kits didn't have a separate fan for the intercooler.

 

[newbtrying]

Is there a separate fan for the intercooler or just the radiator fan? I thought both the SC and TC kits didn't have a separate fan for the intercooler.

separate fan

 

[Ross]

There are 2 fans on a SC LSJ. One is the AC fan, the other is the ECT (engine coolant temperature) fan, but the 2 radiators go across both fans.
I wouldn't use the purple fog lights wire... The fog lights turn off when the headlights go on. The blue wire could work if you adjust the tables with HP Tuners, as the stock settings barely ever turn on.
277 HP Tuners setting for the radiator fans.

You could also use the intercooler pump wire and use it to trigger a relay for the intercooler fan. Like Rauq said, it turns on 10 seconds after the key is on, and stays on until you turn off the engine.

 

[Rauq]

Small correction, the fog lights turn off when the high beams are turned on, they remain on with the headlights.

Neither the LSJ nor the LNF had a separate fan for an intercooler from the factory, so a separate fan and power and wiring should be added on any forced induction build.

I set all of my intercooler fans on a relay turned on by power at the purple fog light power. I've never worried about IATs with the high beams on.

 

[newbtrying]

There are 2 fans on a SC LSJ. One is the AC fan, the other is the ECT (engine coolant temperature) fan, but the 2 radiators go across both fans.
I wouldn't use the purple fog lights wire... The fog lights turn off when the headlights go on. The blue wire could work if you adjust the tables with HP Tuners, as the stock settings barely ever turn on.
277 HP Tuners setting for the radiator fans.

You could also use the intercooler pump wire and use it to trigger a relay for the intercooler fan. Like Rauq said, it turns on 10 seconds after the key is on, and stays on until you turn off the engine.

Ok, i think i'm following everyone's train of thought here. I'm going to refer to the fan on the seperate coolant loop for the laminova cores as the "intercooler fan" just for my own sake. If i follow the instructions that you linked to lower the on temp threshold for "ECT", will this make the radiator and intercooler fan (mine is already attached to blue wire) turn on at the same time? Will this be a bad thing since I want the intercooler fan on always, and the engine coolant fan on only when needed?

I guess I originally thought I hooked up the intercooler fan to the blue wire with the resistor and forgot about it, but i'm learning there's a bit more to it.

 

[Robinjo]

That’s how mine is run and I went into HPTuner and turned the 10 second delay to 0. Now, my two heat exchanger fans come on anytime it turn the key to run. While wiring the fan, be sure to do the diode trick to stop the run on issue. LSJ’s will continue running for about 5-10 seconds after turning off the ignition. The diode stops the back feed that causes this.
Radiator is on its own wire that comes on at 200 F. Also lowered in HPTuner. I think the stock kick on is 220 F.

 

[Ross]

You will need to do testing to be sure it works correctly. I think the blue radiator wire is for the AC fan. Adjusting the ECT fan tables, will change the temperature that the engine fan turns on...but I'm not sure if the AC fan is completely separate from the ECT fan, or if they both come on.

Putting a relay on the intercooler pump seems easier to me, but maybe there is an unused circuit that is even easier... I traced the door locks circuit for someone recently. I think we ended up on the door window circuit off of the BCM C3 connector. Wish I remembered who's build log that was in.

 

[newbtrying]

You will need to do testing to be sure it works correctly. I think the blue radiator wire is for the AC fan. Adjusting the ECT fan tables, will change the temperature that the engine fan turns on...but I'm not sure if the AC fan is completely separate from the ECT fan, or if they both come on.

Putting a relay on the intercooler pump seems easier to me, but maybe there is an unused circuit that is even easier... I traced the door locks circuit for someone recently. I think we ended up on the door window circuit off of the BCM C3 connector. Wish I remembered who's build log that was in.

I think that was me about a page back.

 

[newbtrying]

Last week I took my goblin on a 600 mile round trip drive into Idaho and back again for memorial weekend. This drive was extremely fun since it was 90% river roads. However, I also realized I wanted to make a few changes down the road: 1) hood/windshield. The wind noise in my helmet was incredibly annoying and I feel these would remedy that issue. 2) new headlights. I got to Idaho and then was debating when to return back home when I found that both my headlights were blown. This forced me to avoid the evening/night. 3) aero. I ordered a 9-lives rear wing for the goblin and will do a front wing later.

An observation from this trip was that I burned a bunch of oil. I noticed on hot starts after fueling up during the drive, it’d smoke a bit for a second and then clear up from the exhaust. I wonder if my journal bearing seals are leaking some oil. I still have a crank case pressurization issue (I think) that I need to resolve. Current train of thought is to drive and enjoy it for the rest of this short Montana summer, and do some major changes this winter. These changes include a new air intake manifold system so I can redo the PCV system and rig up a proper catch cab system as well. Also an A2A intercooler that I haven’t decided where to mount, and an oil drain (from turbo) relocation to the block that I’ll have to drill and tap. For now, I’ll just keep topping off with oil when needed.


1 is a over-the-winter project that I’ll take on. 2 has been resolved with the purchase of some decent LEDs and an additional ground installed to both headlights. I figured the most likely cause of the blown bulbs was bad ground. It was either that or voltage surge, which I didn’t observe with my voltage meter. I went with LEDs because I felt the original bulbs in the Dominator headlights were pretty unimpressive in the brightness area.

Just waiting on the wing to ship. i purchased memorial day weekend and got a deal on free shipping.


Oh, and to backtrack to before memorial day weekend, I had installed new NGK Iridium spark plugs. I ordered these from ZZP as "1 step colder" and the part number of the plugs I received was BKR7EIX. I had autolites in there before I swapped these in. The autolites were gapped to 0.044" and these came out of the box at 0.030".

Sorry, I know this post was pretty much a bunch of rambling.

 

[newbtrying]

Sitting here wondering about different ways to get rid of the PCV issue I have without replacing the PCV. I want to go A2A intercooler eventually, so It makes sense to get an aftermarket intake manifold, which would possibly make it easier to plumb in my own catch can/pcv system. The only aftermarket LSJ intake I'm aware of is what David is running from Dyemond Fab. Are you guys aware of any others? NGL I can't believe this one runs about $1K.

 

[newbtrying]

My other thought is what i'd consider a temporary fix. I could install a cheap vented catch can to the valve cover and plug off any routes for unmetered air to enter the intake/turbo. What are yall's thoughts on this while I save up $ and scheme on how i'll go A2A later?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Sitting here wondering about different ways to get rid of the PCV issue I have without replacing the PCV. I want to go A2A intercooler eventually, so It makes sense to get an aftermarket intake manifold, which would possibly make it easier to plumb in my own catch can/pcv system. The only aftermarket LSJ intake I'm aware of is what David is running from Dyemond Fab. Are you guys aware of any others? NGL I can't believe this one runs about $1K.

There are some SAAB 9.3 2.0 intake manifolds that can replace the LSJ laminova intake manifold, rather than spending $1k on an aftermarket manifold - unless you are dead set on buying one. Not certain of the PCV though, but it might be similar.

 

[David]

Like @Desert Sasqwatch said you can go the SAAB route. If you get the one for ZZP they already did the necessary porting that it requires.

LSJ Turbo Intake Manifold

On our LSJ turbo swap kit which uses this intake manifold, you will need to keep your MAP sensor- the one mounted on the intake manifold, as well as the barometric sensor that sits out in the open.

zzperformance.com

Reason I didn't want to go that route is I wanted a way to be able to control how I ran my PCV system.


OTTP also makes one but the Dyemond is better.

LSJ Turbo Intake Manifold

 

[newbtrying]

Ok, a while ago I shelved the goblin and got busy with other life activities (mostly other hobbies). Well, now I have a clear goal and a plan,

1st: I want to revamp the turbo oil drain. I am using the terrible setup that ZZP sells with their turbo kit that re-routes the oil drain line to the actual oil pan drain. DUMB. I'll be drilling and tapping the block in the usual spot that others have done (dumps oil near the girdle). I'm going to use a 1/2" NPT to 10AN fitting here. I'll also be using nylon braided 10AN PTFE hose for draining and will sleeve this with a 3/4" heat shielded fire sleeve since this hose will have to sweep back toward the turbo manifold. I'll be connecting this hose to the turbo with a 38mm 10AN turbo drain flange.

Things needed for this:
1/2x14 NPT tap
1/2 NPT to 10AN adapter
10AN PTFE hose
10AN turbo drain flange
heat shielded fire sleeve
hose assembly tool (i hate using a pick on braided PTFE lines.)
2 10AN PTFE hose fittings: i chose 1 45-degree and 1 straight.

I will tackle this project by pulling the oil pan, drilling and tapping the block, then installing all the necessary parts when I get bored.


2nd: I want to get the Dyemond fab air intake manifold. I want to do this because I will be redesigning the PCV system in the future and I want to delete the PCV valve that is in the stock intake manifold while doing this.

3rd: I'll be designing a catchcan system. I'll use 2 non-ventilated catch cans for this. one vent route will be coming from the oil cap (i have an LS oil cap with 10 AN fitting integrated in it that seems to fit well.) and the other will be coming from the new intake manifold. I'll have check valves in line where appropriate.

4th: full conversion to air-air intercooler. This will be a big project. I haven't decided where to locate the intercooler, or if i'll need fans on the intercooler, consequently. I do think I could put it in-between and behind the heads of the seats above the engine, but I'd definitely need to extend my nine-lives wing about 7 inches higher or so. These extensions are probably something Send-cut-send could produce cheaply.

5th: exhaust. I have no idea what to do here, but I do know i want to do something with it.

I'll start with project 1 and work my way down the list. That's all my thoughts for now.

If you have done the turbo oil drain project I am about to start, please give me any pointers you may have!

 

[Rauq]

I used the ZZP LSJ turbo oil feed and drain kit. Only tips I have on the actual metal work are to pull the oil pan, which is sounds like is in your plans and is the way to go, and to not drill any bigger or deeper than you need to. I think I drilled 3/8 into the pan and then the 3/8 NPT tap drill size (9/64?) something like an inch down into the bore which was more than enough material to tap and thread the barb fitting. I believe ZZP calls for gray RTV on the block-side drain fitting threads, which NPT theoretically shouldn't need, but I figured wouldn't hurt.

Other related thoughts, from what I recall (corroborated by info that I posted elsewhere around that time), the ZZP kit includes a 3/8 NPT barb. I believe I cut their drain line shorter to fit the turbo to barb routing. I drilled and tapped the block for the drain line in the factory turbo location. No additional parts needed outside of the ZZP kit. Not sure if that saves you any time and effort.

 

[Gtstorey]

One reason that ZZP may call for RTV on the threads is that a pipe thread is supposed to be tapered (NPT is National Pipe Tapered) which causes more interference in the threads as it is tightened. In aluminum the tap can help create the taper but probably not much taper available in thiner sections. But even when done correctly, NPT should have a sealant on the threads.

NPTF (National Pipe Tapered Fuel) is supposed to seal without a sealant but may not in a thin section.