V1 Anks329 - Extended City - '07 LS - #190 REGISTERED

[ctuinstra]

Personally I hate the vacuum bleeders. I much more prefer the pressure bleeder. Putting a vacuum on the line can cause it to suck air in if there is a leak (although a leak is bad anyways). But you will never get all the air out if it's sucking air in. A pressure bleeder will help to push fluid in the system and out the leak if there is one. I know the flair fittings have to be SUPER tight the first time to get them to seat well. Almost all of ours leaked a little.

Another issue I had when I could not get fluid to flow throw the system to bleed well is that the pedal was being held down slightly by the brake switch. This closed the ports in the master cylinder down and would not let the pressure system push fluid down the line.

When using a pressure bleeder, always make sure that the MC never runs even slightly low. Otherwise you will have to start all over.

I have a cap with a hose in it to use to pressure bleed if you want to use it.

I assume your bleed ports are facing up. Can't tell you how many times they have been mounted on the wrong wheel and the ports are facing down. You will never get the air to go down,

I know other tricks I used to use on ATVs and other vehicles to help bleed systems, but this is getting long winded as it is.

 

[Rttoys]

Pull the brake pedal up with your hand. Sometimes it won’t return completely and not let fluid flow properly, until it’s bleed.

 

[Anks329]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I bleed the brakes again with two people, and it seems to be working better now. Almost there, I'm still not 100% of the way happy with the brakes yet; also, it looks like I'm leaking somewhere along the lines. The fluid level dropped a bunch after my last test and I had drips in the driveway. My friend thought he saw something drip from the vacuum line, but that doesn't have any fluid in it to leak, so it's gotta be coming from somewhere else.

Here is today's test drive:

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[Ark :D]

Check all the places where the stainless steel lines (or rubber lines, if you opted to re-use the donors ones) meet the metal brake lines coming from the car. I thought I had them good and tight, but it took like 8 tightenings to get them to stop dripping.

 

[ctuinstra]

Check all the places where the stainless steel lines (or rubber lines, if you opted to re-use the donors ones) meet the metal brake lines coming from the car. I thought I had them good and tight, but it took like 8 tightenings to get them to stop dripping.

Yep! I thought I was going to break my lines I tightened them so much the first time but they still leaked. So I went back around and loosened them and re-tightened them a couple of times just to seat them good.

This is also why I mentioned I didn't like the vacuum bleeding system. If you don't have perfect lines to start with, you end up sucking in air that you are trying to bleed out.

 

[Lonny]

I have found brake fluid in some of the donors brake boosters. If the master cylinder seals are bad it can allow brake fluid to leak into the booster.

 

[Rttoys]

That’s a test wiggle Good job though.

yes. A master can leak and fill the booster, so keep an eye on that.

 

[Anks329]

I went and tightened everything down, then found a leak in the rear main line tee... so tightened it all down again. This time, no bubbles as I was bleeding the brakes. So I think I’ve got the brakes under control now. Also completed the alignment of the wheels at midnight... so test drive tomorrow morning! Fingers crossed, the brakes work!

 

[Anks329]

Successful test drive! (video coming soon!)

But, two issues:
- I'm leaking automatic transmission fluid from the loop that I created. Is there a better way to create this loop or is there something else I should be doing here?

- My exhaust seems to be smoking where it connects to the engine. Is this normal?

 

[Ross]

If your exhaust is new, and burning off a thin layer of oil, then it is normal.
If your exhaust is able to move a feather or cotton ball on a string, then it is leaking, and needs a new gasket, or it is warped.
Leaking exhaust will throw off your O2 sensor, and cause the engine to run rich, or throw an engine code, and run in VE (volumetric efficiency) mode only, and not use the MAF (mass air flow meter) mode.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

did you put a gasket between the header and exhaust?

 

[Anks329]

Think I might have missed the gasket... I’ll add that in.


With the transmission loop, I’m going to add more hose clamps and tighten them down more.

 

[Lonny]

Use this style clamp, they make a better seal.

Fuel line clamp.

 

[Anks329]

Thanks for the suggestion on the clamp Lonny!

Video from today’s drive:

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View this content on Instagram

 

[Anks329]

While I'm waiting for some supplies to come in, I was watching Gotham Garage. They built a car with a tequila bottle as the coolant overflow tank. Anyone done anything like this and change the overflow tank? Anything specific to looks for before changing the tank?

 

[k.rollin]

I don't think that that would work with our systems. That bottle is just functioning as an overflow only. Our cars are set up with expansion tanks. If I'm mistaken, surely someone will correct me.

 

[jennam]

That would be quite dangerous on a goblin. I could see the pressure forcing the stopper out and showering the car (and everyone in or near it) with hot coolant.

 

[Anks329]

But, but, it looks so cool...

 

[k.rollin]

Having a sight glass for the fuel tank would look cool too, but there's no way I'd recommend doing it

 

[Anks329]

Spent some time last night putting the taillights into place, but having issues wiring it up. Can anyone tell me where the rear brake light wires originate? And where the front turn signal wires originate? I’m thinking some connection I made is messed up and want to run a wire back to where it should go to test it.