V1 Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

[Briann1177]

Unless someone beats me to it, I will check as soon as I get home from work.

 

[Briann1177]

On the BLUE circled pin, do you see ground while the key is at CRANK position?

Just for my knowledge to get you an answer, how are you measuring resistance at the ECM? My harness is already wrapped up. Does the top part of the ECM connector pop off like the BCM ones?

 

[Ark :D]

It does not pop off. I wasn't testing for resistance on the blue circled pin, I was just testing continuity. Between my meter being a piece of crap and me barely knowing how to use it, I'm probably not getting much useful data. =D

 

[Briann1177]

So where were you hooking up the other side of the meter? One to blue pin, then other lead to ECM pins 1,2,4???

Sorry for the confusing terms. Continuity implies that you have a low resistance value. Or low enough to make your continuity tester on your meter beep.

 

[Ark :D]

Just used a chassis ground for the other end. Like I said, probably not great data.

 

[Ross]

That sounds like a valid test. Check resistance from the blue circle on the relay, to ground, thru the ECM, when the key is in the crank position vs not-in-the-crank-position.

 

[Brian74]

Are you getting proper signal from the ignition switch? There is a white wire with a voltage dropping resistor that feeds the BCM plug X2 pin 56. That should be your actual start signal according to the wiring diagram.

 

[Briann1177]

The results are in.

1. Red circle
I get 9.7V with in run position and 9.56V in crank position. Clutch position does not matter.
2. Blue circle
I get 0 ohms in key off, run, and crank positions. Clutch position also doesn't matter. Im a little confused on that.

 

[Briann1177]

Are you getting proper signal from the ignition switch? There is a white wire with a voltage dropping resistor that feeds the BCM plug X2 pin 56. That should be your actual start signal according to the wiring diagram.

This is for Ark, but i think a way to answer that is to turn your key to the run position. Make sure your fuel pump primes. Crank it and the pump should prime again. Any consecutive cranks, and the pump won't prime any more.

 

[Ark :D]

That sounds like a valid test. Check resistance from the blue circle on the relay, to ground, thru the ECM, when the key is in the crank position vs not-in-the-crank-position.

Unfortunately, like Briann1177, I get no result whatsoever. I think something must have changed in the transition from LSJ to LNF.

Are you getting proper signal from the ignition switch? There is a white wire with a voltage dropping resistor that feeds the BCM plug X2 pin 56. That should be your actual start signal according to the wiring diagram.

This will be my next test.

The results are in.

1. Red circle
I get 9.7V with in run position and 9.56V in crank position. Clutch position does not matter.
2. Blue circle
I get 0 ohms in key off, run, and crank positions. Clutch position also doesn't matter. Im a little confused on that.

This meshes exactly with what I am seeing, so I am not so concerned about it now ... still have a problem to find, but my confusion has now lessened a bit, and that's always a good thing.

This is for Ark, but i think a way to answer that is to turn your key to the run position. Make sure your fuel pump primes. Crank it and the pump should prime again. Any consecutive cranks, and the pump won't prime any more.

This is exactly the behavior I have.

This is very helpful to me mentally because my car's behavior is exactly the same as a car that starts properly. Maddening, but pacifying, if that's even possible.

 

[Ark :D]

Are you getting proper signal from the ignition switch? There is a white wire with a voltage dropping resistor that feeds the BCM plug X2 pin 56. That should be your actual start signal according to the wiring diagram.

Unsurprisingly, this white wire tests good between the ignition switch and BCM X2/56. Tests about 1 ohm of resistance though, no more.

 

[Briann1177]

I think you've poked, prodded, and tested everything you could possibly do with the crank circuit. I think it's safe to eliminate that as a problem area.

The only other areas off the top of my head are engine codes and the clutch sensor. It would be handy if you get your OBD-II scanner to power up.

 

[Briann1177]

If it were engine codes, I think you can just unhook your battery for like 10 min to clear them. But I think you already tried that?

 

[Ark :D]

I think you've poked, prodded, and tested everything you could possibly do with the crank circuit. I think it's safe to eliminate that as a problem area.

The only other areas off the top of my head are engine codes and the clutch sensor. It would be handy if you get your OBD-II scanner to power up.

Yes, that certainly would be handy, wouldn't it? I can get it powered up, but none of the Android or Windows programs I have attempted to use will connect to the ECM. They connect to the ELM327 fine, but nothing beyond that.

If it were engine codes, I think you can just unhook your battery for like 10 min to clear them. But I think you already tried that?

Definitely have done that several times, with the last time being overnight last night.

Also just tried popping the key and key cylinder out of my ignition switch, swapping those plus the TDM to a spare ignition switch, and trying to crank with that. No go ... but I knew that already because Bradr's ignition adapter won't crank it either.

The last loose end I could think of, was a cut white wire near ECM X2. I know I would not have cut anything without specific reason to, but I looked into it nonetheless. I checked continuity between the end of the cut wire and every pin on ECM X2 until I found it. Turns out, it's pin 19, which is "EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid Control". Obviously not needed.

Is there any chance at all this could all be because of my slightly-compromised battery? As a reminder, it sat in the corner of my garage for a couple months, then spent a week in my co-worker's car, then spent another 1.5-2 months in my garage again before seeing use in the Goblin. It seems to drop down to about 70% charge overnight while disconnected, but still pushes out about 12.4-12.6 volts. On the lowish side for a car battery, but not TOO low. Additionally, most of my test cranks have been performed with my battery booster sending the voltage up past 14.5v.

 

[Ross]

Just watch the system voltage while testing it.
A bad battery might not be able to put out the amps needed to crank the engine.... but you would see the voltage drop while under load.

 

[Ark :D]

Don't think the battery is stopping my crank then. It starts and runs fine with a very minimal voltage drop, without the booster. Just have to jump the crank relay, is all.

I think I'm just going to give up for now and keep building. Maybe a solution will present itself, or maybe I'll be content to hotwire my own car forever, lol.

 

[Ark :D]

Got a few assembly items done today. I masked and painted all my brake calipers, and corrected the camber a bit on my front wheels. I turned the top Heim joints out one turn, and turned the bottom Heim joints in one turn. Much closer to zero camber now, though not perfect.

I also test-fitted the turbo charge tubes and intake tubes. I cut all the rubber tubes to fit and threw it all on.

As always, a couple things came up.

First, I am considering replacing the plastic elbows that came with the kit, for the turbo intercooler, with nicer metal ones. They aren't even in the whole way and they feel like they're going to break off if I go any further. If anyone has done this, I could use a product recommendation!

While test-fitting the intercooler, I noticed the brackets screw down pretty tight against some vacuum lines. Is that ok?



Is this brass fitting supposed to have anything connected to it? If so, what?



I figured out what the metal bracket is for, but I can't figure out where the coated clamp is supposed to go.



And finally, some "happy pics", aka making-progress pics. Nothing fancy, but it's coming together pretty well.

I know I still have to deal with the green-labeled hose. I just got the check valve for it this week, but need to read back and figure out what to do with it.

Oh, also, I decided to make a proper "first start" video, mostly to share with my family as sort of a progress report. Here's that:

I'm planning to do, at most, one build update a week. It's a little weird, having the longest build thread on this forum, and is making me a little self-conscious. =O

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ark, great progress, starting to look like a Goblin. The green label hose is the air inlet to the valve cover and needs to be connected to you I take tube between the air filter and turbo inlet. The check valve in the hose needs to installed with the arrow pointing towards the engine and is there to ensure the air flows one way - into the valve cover and not back flow into the intake tube.

 

[JBINTX]

Jeremy: Great progress!!!

Move the vacuum bracket to the side of the intake. See pics.

Make your own vacuum connection with a check valve. See link. Post #377

Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC

So, after a few days of driving and about 100 plus miles, I actually had to get the windex out tonight and clean the windscreen!!! No - not complaining. Wearing it as a small badge of honor...... :) Goblin on friends!

dfkitcar.com

Small metal mount for intake tube - see pic.

 

[benjy]

I'm planning to do, at most, one build update a week. It's a little weird, having the longest build thread on this forum, and is making me a little self-conscious. =O

FWIW a lot of your posts have been helpful to me, keep the ramblings going!