V1 Brake Fluid Leak

[Adam in CLE]

Hi All. Been talking to gtstorey quite a bit who has been a great help. I am posting for 2 reasons, the first is if someone else has the issue hopefully they find this. The second is to gather a general consensus of ideas. Thought I was ready for the 1st drive but ran into some issues. Brake pedal goes all they way down. Through research found 2 things out. 1, front caliper needs the bleeder pointing up (complete oversight). 2, if that doesn't fix it, I will be buying a new master cylinder. The other issue is I am leaking brake fluid where the engine and transmission comes together. I am bone dry where the clutch line gets connected. The fix is pulling the engine and replace the throw out bearing. While in there I may do the rear main seal if needed. If anyone has had this issue have you fixed without pulling the motor? Also welcome other ideas on where the issue is.

 

[Corgithulhu]

If you're leaking a lot and bone dry around the top where the clutch line connects, then you could have a leaky slave cylinder which I think is fairly common on aging Cobalts. Mine used to leak a few drops when I first built the Goblin, but it seems to be fine now. Once I pull the engine back out to rebuild it, I'll throw all new clutch parts in.

 

[Adam in CLE]

If you're leaking a lot and bone dry around the top where the clutch line connects, then you could have a leaky slave cylinder which I think is fairly common on aging Cobalts. Mine used to leak a few drops when I first built the Goblin, but it seems to be fine now. Once I pull the engine back out to rebuild it, I'll throw all new clutch parts in.

Makes sense. It is my understanding I have a newer clutch but won't know till I pull it apart.

 

[Rttoys]

Yep. That elbow that attaches the hard line to the throw out bearing is a good place for a leak. could be the seal. Could be just not seated correctly. Need to investigate before you pull the engine out.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Can you expand your statement? How do I check it before pulling the engine?

 

[Mattc3366]

I just went through this. Pull the elbow piece with the bleeder off the transmission. I assumed my slave was leaking while trying to bleed the clutch and pulled the transmission and found out the old seal was stuck inside the elbow and was basically double gasketed so I wasted a lot of time taking it apart

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

This information to check for the o-ring is expressed to everyone who posts a problem with the elbow. Yet nearly every time no one checks for the o-ring stuck in the elbow and fights with an annoying leak until they discover the o-ring is not on the nipple - and is in the end of the elbow (or missing altogether).

 

[Gtstorey]

We are talking about checking the both ends of this in Ross's picture, especially the other end from where the clip is drawn in, see post 2 & 3 here;

A Little Adult Supervision Requested

Greetings all, Trying to button up the suspension, brakes and clutch and bleed the lines before moving on. Ran into a snag trying to clip in the clutch line into one of Lonny's new F35 transmissions. Do any of the Gurus out there recognize if the clips below are the correct versions (one is...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Adam in CLE]

I just went through this. Pull the elbow piece with the bleeder off the transmission. I assumed my slave was leaking while trying to bleed the clutch and pulled the transmission and found out the old seal was stuck inside the elbow and was basically double gasketed so I wasted a lot of time taking it apart

Sorry you had to go through that. I appreciate the info and that is a great idea. Should alleviate pulling the transmission...hopefully.

 

[Gtstorey]

I just went through this. Pull the elbow piece with the bleeder off the transmission. I assumed my slave was leaking while trying to bleed the clutch and pulled the transmission and found out the old seal was stuck inside the elbow and was basically double gasketed so I wasted a lot of time taking it apart

Exactly what happened to me. I don't think Adam has any new pieces to have double seals, but his might be damaged or out of place.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Exactly what happened to me. I don't think Adam has any new pieces to have double seals, but his might be damaged or out of place.

What's the best way to remove the elbow for those who have done it?

 

[Gtstorey]

I think there are clips on both legs of the elbow.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Thanks GT! Taking out the fuse box tomorrow to take a look. With the tube that is coming off the slave cylinder will I be able to get the fitting in when putting it back together or will I have to take the trans apart, drop the motor etc?

 

[Gtstorey]

I think you can get it back together in place. There is a plastic cover that gives you some access into the transmission.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Great, I saw that but didn't dig into it. As always, you are the best!

 

[Rauq]

Both clips are accessible from outside the transmission, circled in the first pic. The elbow is the whole piece in the first picture. The clutch pipe is circled in the second pic. The nipple upon which the elbow is installed, with the oh-so-important seal, is part of the clutch pipe inside the transmission. The nipple is the only part protruding from the trans, and you can see the bottom clippy portion at the top inside the bellhousing. The nipple/clutch pipe are not removable with the transmission installed.

You could theoretically be leaking from the screw fitting into the slave cylinder at the bottom of the clutch pipe, but if that's the case, it's the same work to tighten that or replace a leaky slave cylidner- pulling the trans. It's not that bad, I did it in a week of an hour here and there after work.

Let me know if I'm not showing what you're looking for or if you want to see more. I have an LSD 4.05 F35 sitting on the floor in my garage.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Both clips are accessible from outside the transmission, circled in the first pic. The elbow is the whole piece in the first picture. The clutch pipe is circled in the second pic. The nipple upon which the elbow is installed, with the oh-so-important seal, is part of the clutch pipe inside the transmission. The nipple is the only part protruding from the trans, and you can see the bottom clippy portion at the top inside the bellhousing. The nipple/clutch pipe are not removable with the transmission installed.

You could theoretically be leaking from the screw fitting into the slave cylinder at the bottom of the clutch pipe, but if that's the case, it's the same work to tighten that or replace a leaky slave cylidner- pulling the trans. It's not that bad, I did it in a week of an hour here and there after work.

Let me know if I'm not showing what you're looking for or if you want to see more. I have an LSD 4.05 F35 sitting on the floor in my garage.
View attachment 35632View attachment 35635

Very helpful, thanks Rauq. The fitting that you have circled where the clip is missing I don't have. My clutch line threads in. Not sure if that is the norm. How do I tell if the o-ring is bad or I need to dig in further i.e. pull the motor and take the trans off? The only thing I can think of is pull apart, inspect and keep an eye out for future leak. It is a very slow leak but when you push the clutch it obviously appears to be faster.

 

[Gtstorey]

Have someone push on the clutch while closely watching the elbow for leaks. The bottom plastic piece isn’t really required but I have an extra if you want it. I’m not sure how you fix it if it’s the bottom of the elbow leaking other than trying a different oring or replacing the clutch pipe which is an engine/trans split. Unless you did get two seals somehow.

You may be able to check if the clutch pipe is tight in the throw out bearing with the right wrench. I started questioning whether mine was thight after one if the reinstall and I was able to check it.

 

[Rauq]

The fitting that you have circled where the clip is missing I don't have.

I'm not sure how you can be missing this piece and have anything close to coming together.

On my build at least, there's a DF-supplied hard line from the clutch master in the front to this elbow at the back. Both ends have brazed fittings with o-rings. Those are the only o-rings in the clutch system. This connects to the elbow, which then attaches to the clutch pipe.

The rear brazed fitting with o-ring (long hardline) fits into the outward-facing port of the clutch elbow (red arrow in the first pic). The clutch pipe elbow protrudes outside the transmission at the green arrow. Inside this connection is a seal that's not an o-ring. This seal is replaceable with the trans installed, but the clutch pipe/nipple assembly is not.

The only threaded fitting in the clutch system is at the slave cylinder itself, at the blue arrow below. Unless kits have changed somehow and I haven't kept up?

 

[Vwsaabvt]

Very helpful, thanks Rauq. The fitting that you have circled where the clip is missing I don't have. My clutch line threads in. Not sure if that is the norm. How do I tell if the o-ring is bad or I need to dig in further i.e. pull the motor and take the trans off? The only thing I can think of is pull apart, inspect and keep an eye out for future leak. It is a very slow leak but when you push the clutch it obviously appears to be faster.

take a picture of where your clutch line connects at the transmission and post it here.