V1 Chris’s 2007 SS/SC track frame build for autocross

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Sounds like good deal. Hope the person selling didn't drop a '1' off the front of the milage. Hopefully this will be a quick swapping of parts and you are on the road again.

 

[ccannx]

Got a valve spring removal tool and using my old head from the LSJ as the guinea pig. Old LSJ cam lobes are showing wear so ordered stage 2 turbo lsj cams and 82lb springs to swap into the b207r. Need to use minimum pressure to hold the valve stems in place while compressing the springs. Looks like it may be an easy job without removing the head with just compressed air on the cylinder.

 

[ccannx]

While I’m at it the cam gears will be replaced with the new timing kit, oil nozzle, neutral balance shafts and Ati under drive pulley will get installed.

 

[ccannx]

Sounds like good deal. Hope the person selling didn't drop a '1' off the front of the milage. Hopefully this will be a quick swapping of parts and you are on the road again.

Motor looks very clean inside.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Update? Where are you at with the new motor?

 

[ccannx]

I have the neutral balance shafts, cams, springs and head back on the new motor. Plan on dropping the subframe, motor and trans out this sunday since Virginia is on lockdown and all of our autocrosses have been scrapped.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Do me a favor, how long is your upper link, eye to eye, on the new rear suspension?

I've been doing too much thinking, measuring and sketching for my own good lately. I have been looking at replacing the Cobalt subframe and going with a completely different rear suspension. It is still just an idea, somewhat on paper, but not at the sharing stage yet. What I have in mind is less weight, same stiffness (or better) and will be completely flat with the rest of the forward frame. Dang, who talked me into building a Goblin!

 

[ccannx]

Do me a favor, how long is your upper link, eye to eye, on the new rear suspension?

I've been doing too much thinking, measuring and sketching for my own good lately. I have been looking at replacing the Cobalt subframe and going with a completely different rear suspension. It is still just an idea, somewhat on paper, but not at the sharing stage yet. What I have in mind is less weight, same stiffness (or better) and will be completely flat with the rest of the forward frame. Dang, who talked me into building a Goblin!

The top links are 8" from eye to eye. Watched a lot of videos on roll center , if your going to fabricate a new subframe I would consider ditching the stock lower control arm, raising the inner pickup point (LCA) and getting rid of the toe link (like DF will do). It was really difficult to get the rear to line up and not bumpsteer. I experimented with lasers, ride height, shock mounting locations and suspension travel range. Keep in mind I NEVER drive my Goblin on the road and the first autocross the car was undrivable, it would be extremely dangerous to make changes like I did to a road car.

The ball joint on my lower control arm can be unbolted the stockers can be drilled and bolted onto a tubular arm pretty easily.

I would like to get the DF rear upright and control arm hopefully it will have clearance for 15 inch wheels or smaller for people interested in running e-mod. It will be an added bonus ditching that rear toe bar.

 

[ccannx]

Old smokey is out of the car. New to me motor now has the timing finished. Next up transfer over the clutch and flywheel then bolt up the new motor.

 

[ccannx]

Coolant pump housing and mount pulled off the LSJ cleaned and painted satin black VHT paint. Zzp stage2 cams installed and valve cover cleaned, repainted and installed on b207r Saab motor.

 

[ccannx]

Oil cooler on the b207r and LSJ are slightly different. The lsj has a sensor (oil temp maybe?) on an adapter while the b207r does not have that adapter and the sensor seems to be relocated to the block just below and to the left near the knock sensor.

While the new design looks to save space the old design looks like it can possibly accommodate an external oil cooler.

 

[Ross]

My LSJ has an oil switch - below ~20psi, the dash oil light turns on.
I wonder if the Saab b207r had an oil pressure sensor & gauge?
I pulled the plug out of my LSJ block so I can put an oil sensor in it.

 

[ccannx]

My LSJ has an oil switch - below ~20psi, the dash oil light turns on.
I wonder if the Saab b207r had an oil pressure sensor & gauge?
I pulled the plug out of my LSJ block so I can put an oil sensor in it.

That's it ! post 300 in your build. Right between the crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor. Did you remove your oil cooler and relocate your oil pressure switch.

 

[Ross]

That's it ! post 300 in your build. Right between the crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor. Did you remove your oil cooler and relocate your oil pressure switch.

I left the oil switch and dash idiot light. I didn't see any reason to remove it.
I removed the plug in the block for an oil pressure sensor. When I eventually add a turbo, I can put a Tee in there, and supply oil pressure to the turbo, and the oil pressure sensor.

 

[ccannx]

Not sure if its helps but both the ZZP turbo kit and the b207r use the leftmost plug behind the coolant crossover pipe for turbo oil supply.

 

[ccannx]

Timing cover back on installed the alternator and tensioner that came with the zzp tubo kit for LSJ. Was able to get rid of the AC compressor so I picked up a shorter belt. Measured the belt path with the Ati underdrive pulley to determine belt length.

 

[Goblin Graber]

Do you still have the LSJ alternator? Ross is having a tough time getting a pulley for his. Maybe you can sell him the whole alternator.

 

[Lechlis]

Any issues/tips with the balancer install?

 

[Ross]

Not sure if its helps but both the ZZP turbo kit and the b207r use the leftmost plug behind the coolant crossover pipe for turbo oil supply.

That is great information. Thanks. It is closer to the turbo, and is already proven.

 

[ccannx]

Any issues/tips with the balancer install?

I lined the slotted seal up with the stock balancer and marked the keyway with a carpenters pencil. The ATI balancer was very tight, I was able to wiggle and tap it far enough with my palm to use the stock balancer and draw it in. The easiest way I can think is to get a bolt about an inch longer than stock and use that to draw it in or get a cheap kit like this : Performance Tool Harmonic Balancer Installer Set, Model# W89710 | Northern Tool