• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 Connors street Goblin #400 sc 07

A

At4Connor

Member
A
Finally got my engine put into my car and couldn’t get it to fire. It would crank just wouldn’t fire. I went through every ground and cleaned them. Go to start it and it now sputters and sounds like it’s going to pop off.

checked spark and the 2 cylinders on the passenger side are getting very good spark and the drive side 2 cylinders are getting spark but not very good spark like the passenger side two.
Has anyone ever heard of something like this?

the engine wants to start… I can feel it!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2679.jpeg
    IMG_2679.jpeg
    303.9 KB · Views: 61
Rauq
How do you quantify good spark versus not good spark?

My input is not going to be super Goblin-specific if that's still helpful.

If you swap a coil from #1 or 2 to #3 or 4, does the issue follow the plug?
How about a spark plug?
How about an injector?

If the issue follows parts swapping, then you've probably identified your culprit.

If not, we can start tracing wiring back to the fuse block or PCM, but based on my preliminary inspection, the +12v, low ref, and ground are common to all the coils. My hunch would be that you're not experiencing an issue on 2 of 4 cylinders with wires that are common to all 4 cylinders, but it's still a definite possibility. But for my $0.02, given that you've said you've already checked all the grounds, I'd start with swapping coils then plugs then injectors.
 
A
Any one know how to get both my hub assemblies straight without over extending the tie rod ends. Passenger side is aiming inward and driver side is strait. Seems like one of the steering rack arms is extended out farther than the other.
 
Rttoys
What Ross said. New Df supplied outer tie rod ends up front. Stock cobalt outer tie rod ends to the rear.

plus, make sure your steering rack is centered before moving anything too much.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Did you 'center' the steering rack first? There should be an equal length of the rod (the rack) sticking out of each end of the housing before trying to install the tie rod assemblies and to attach to the steering arms on the hub assemblies. This is also the time to install the steering wheel so it is 'centered' with the steering rack - if installed beforehand and the steering wheel is turned to get it 'centered', then one side of the rack will be longer than the other side. The results will be similar to a what you're experiencing.
 
A
haven’t installed steering wheel yet due to pieces missing from kit. Still waiting to hear back from df.
yes I believe it put the df supplied ends on in the front.

do I have to replace the whole shaft itself or can I just do the tie rod ends?
 
Rttoys
The outer tie rod ends are the only ones replaced in the kit. If there’s any movement with the inner tie rods, they should be replaced too.
 
A
Well well well… just got the car back from powder coating last week Friday the 22nd and I am getting it built quick. Too nice out not to want to drive it. Having engine problems with running on 2 cylinders. This engine has been sitting for 3 years and we came to the conclusion that 2 injectors were clogged or bad. Either way I’m replacing all of them. Installed new spark plugs. Injectors are suppose to be here next week. Still have to find nice seats and harnesses. Otherwise I’m on the search for wheels and tires as well as a wing.
57146
 
A
Have been idling car and can’t get the front radiator fan to come on. I have the new base model thermostat housing and thermostat that came in it installed. Fan will not kick on for some reason. Side tube rails are getting very hot too. Also it now started dripping under the water pump in the back(not sure if it blew a seal. Tempted to go back to the old thermostat which says 180 on it.
 
jirwin
At4Connor said:
Have been idling car and can’t get the front radiator fan to come on. I have the new base model thermostat housing and thermostat that came in it installed. Fan will not kick on for some reason. Side tube rails are getting very hot too. Also it now started dripping under the water pump in the back(not sure if it blew a seal. Tempted to go back to the old thermostat which says 180 on it.
Click to expand...
What temp did you hit? The stock tune has the fans coming on much later than you would think. Well into the low 200s IIRC
 
Ross
My 2006 LSJ coolant temperature sensor is right beside the coolant exit from the head.
Mine was programmed to turn on at 223F, but I changed it in HP Tuners.
In a Cobalt, the 2 fans can turn on slowly (6 volts each, in serial mode) before 223F, but in a Goblin, we only use one fan, which turn on when the ECU commands high fans, 12 volts each, in parallel mode. That is why an LSJ has a SER/PAR relay, for serial and parallel fan wiring.
 
Rttoys
On the throttle body, one is brake booster and one is capped off

scroll on the dash functions for coolant temp or. Get a scanner that can read data so you know what temp you are at. Also, if the system isn’t purged correctly, coolant may not hit the temp sensor and trigger the fan when need be.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
V1 Captain Dave's City Goblin #336 - 07 SS/SC Donor
7 8 9
Replies
168
Views
18K
Captain Dave
C
P
V1 OBD2 Fun Time
Replies
6
Views
1K
Gtstorey
G
J
V1 Passenger coolant lines.
Replies
8
Views
2K
Cheqmate5000
C
RobC76
SOLD ZZP LSJ Phenolic Intake Spacer $85 Shipped
Replies
0
Views
115
RobC76
RobC76
J
V1 2006 SS/SC crank but won't start
Replies
18
Views
2K
ah.b.normal
A
Back
Top