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V1 Coolant leak between engine and trans!?!?

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The picture above was taken right after pulling the head. Nothing in the cylinders except a tiny bit of excess assembly lube.
This proves you did NOT have the PCV hose hooked to your cooling system while filling. That mistake would have filled the air passages in the intake and then the cylinders BEFORE the oil pan. BAD oil cooler? Or did you already prove the oil cooler is ok? I have only seen damaged ones leak, and usually damage is obvious leaking pressurized oil to the outside. It is that thing that looks like a stack of plates beside the oil filter. I think it has a small size coolant hose from the thermostat housing and another small hose routed out to a place I don't know? (But I am sure coolant goes THROUGH this cooler, so it has an "in" and an "out" hose, I am unsure where they both go!)**** Most donors had an accident that took them off the road; DID YOURS? You could easily check the oil cooler by taking both hoses (in/out) loose at their source ends, Plug one hose Hold the open end of the other hose higher than the cooler and fill with a funnel through the other hose. IF the cooler is ruptured inside water will again run out the oil drain plug on the pan. ****That would get water in your oil but fails to explain how water is coming out of the bellhousing?(and since my last name is BELL I am always concerned about housings with my name on it! LOL!!) But really, that leak is just weird. 1693407646865.png
 
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I filled the area around the cylinders and it's holding. Not leaking straight away. Now I'm wondering if there could be something wrong with the head. It only leaks when I fill directly into the hose connection on the head. More testing tomorrow.
 
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Some had asked about how everything is plumbed in my engine. My engine is partially disassembled but these pics show my plumbing.
 

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Rauq
What you have labeled as PCV to Intake in the first picture is actually a vacuum line that goes through the boost solenoid to the bypass actuator, but all the coolant and PCV lines look like they're plumbed/piped correctly.
 
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I filled the area around the cylinders and it's holding. Not leaking straight away. Now I'm wondering if there could be something wrong with the head. It only leaks when I fill directly into the hose connection on the head. More testing tomorrow.
Have you checked to too see if the oil cooler is leaking yet?
AND oil coolers are cheap and easy to replace! Could the water pump be leaking into the timing chain area? We've covered so many possibilities I can't remember. This pile of brains ought to be able to figure this out!
 
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On a similar problem/fix. I helped Forum member Josh09 finish his Goblin last week. F35 The pipe from the T/O bearing to the elbow was missing the seal that goes up inside the elbow. I believed the Pipe end had got broken in harvesting donor parts. We replaced the T/O bearing with new bearing and pipe(sold separately) which worked ok; but his donor stuff worked before. I thought the top of the original pipe was broken off. NO! The top 3/8" of the T/O Bearing pipe is covered with one big molded rubber seal piece. We didn't know we could have just pulled the seal off the new pipe and put it on the old one and avoided a trans R&R! Which cost us a day. That pipe is only $15! (But you can't just buy the seal!) AND you can't install a new pipe on the T/O bearing without removing the Trans. GRRRR!
 
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Don't think water coming out of the oil drain plug would be water pump.
WHY? The water pump is driven by a chain in the front chain housing. If a shaft seal on the water pump on the sprocket side of the pump shaft failed then water from the engine's water jacket would flow into the front housing. From there into the pan.
 
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WHY? The water pump is driven by a chain in the front chain housing. If a shaft seal on the water pump on the sprocket side of the pump shaft failed then water from the engine's water jacket would flow into the front housing.
Maybe I need to look into how the water pump is done on the ecotec. I've only messed with belt driven water pumps.
 
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GT?, You own a Goblin but have never been into the motor? Well soon you will have! I'm betting your curiosity will impel you to pull one apart, they are all over the junkyards. I think they started in Cavaliers, Sunbird/Sunfires and Saturns in 03? You could get a 2.2 junkyard "core" cheap, tear it down. A great learning experience, IMO! I bought a junk Cobalt for $200, had a scrapper pick it up, he brought it to the house, I pulled the subframe, engine and trans plus most of the front suspension out of it. He hauled the remains to the scrapper and charged me $50. $250 netted me an engine and trans of unknown ability, subframe, front brakes, 4 wheels and tires, struts, steering rack, radiator and condenser, a hood, some wiring and tons of little bits. If you were closer to Columbus, GA I'd give you a 2.2 to take home and take apart, just for stopping by to visit!
 
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Head isn't the problem. I plugged all the coolant passages on the side that touches the block and filled it up, no leaking. I'll check oil cooler and water pump next. Water level in the block where I filled it up still hasn't dropped.

I did have a question about gaskets. All the ones I have tried are multi layered and I noticed the middle layer is open. For example, the semi circular openings around the cylinders have a direct passage to all the oil passages with this middle layer.
 

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As to the pump, the sprocket, on the chain side, is on a shaft and that shaft has a seal. AND seals can leak. Pumps sometimes leak coolant to the atmosphere(out onto the ground) but any seal can fail.
 
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