V1 Dan's #495 build (2006 SS/SC)

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I have the HF tap & die set right here in front of me on the work bench and it has the M10x1.0. Why doubt what is being stated when you don't have one. The set list has it right on the package and here's a photo of the tap.

Fact!

 

[Gtstorey]

I have seen too much variation in HF stuff to trust that 2 in the same stack in the same store would be exactly the same. If something this detailed was important on a purchase from them, I would check prior to purchasing. I use Harbor Freight stuff but I try to confirm important details before I walk out of the store.Saves some headaches.

 

[Joebob]

Today I tightened up everything in the rear end. I've been all over town trying to find a m10x1 tap to clean the powder coat out of the left rear caliper. Both the bleeder and brake line holes are gunked up. FYI the thread restorer loaner kit from AutoZone does not come with that size.

Discovered that two of my tires are mounted backwards (I bought them that way) so I'll have to take them somewhere to be remounted.

I have two universal corbeau sliders that won't work with the seat mounts from DF. My plan is to cut this 1" square tubing to span the perpendicular tubing on the chassis. I'll drill a hole through both pieces of tubing and the floor. I will use heavy hardware to attach everything. Finally, I'll test fit the seats and mark where the sliders need to attach to the new mount. My concern with this plan is that the seat will be too flat and it'll feel like I'm sitting at a 90° angle in the car. I could built up the front with washers but I worry the angle would get funny when tightening the bolts.

View attachment 48672View attachment 48673View attachment 48674View attachment 48675

You can use side mounts for the seats and bolt the bottom to the slider tops and the slider bottoms to the square tubing. This way you can adjust the angle without angling the sliders or bolting through a stack of washers.

Amazon.com

 

[TheAnesthetist]

You can use side mounts for the seats and bolt the bottom to the slider tops and the slider bottoms to the square tubing. This way you can adjust the angle without angling the sliders or bolting through a stack of washers.

Amazon.com

Oooooh I like that a lot. I haven't seen a mount like that before. Excellent idea!

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Finished up the parking brake after realizing I had the calipers on the wrong sides of the car. I considered rivnutting the firewall but opted for rivets since I couldn't think of any reason I'd need to remove it. Wired up brake lights and headlights. Finished up the shifter but I still need to perform a counterweightectomy.

Two issues I've discovered. The third brake light works whenever the pedal is pushed. However the taillights only illuminate if the key is on. Secondly, I'm not getting any reverse lights. It may be that I'm actually in 6th gear instead of reverse. I would test the theory, but I have the transaxle fluid filler plug out for the time being.

Next up, bleeding the brakes and clutch. I'm planning to bleed the master cylinder first. Waiting on Amazon to deliver that kit.

Anyone know the size of the inner harness bolt? Tried the search bar with no luck. Starting to gather the necessary hardware since the stuff that comes from corbeau won't work.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

6th gear? Thought you installed a F35? BTW reverse on the F40 is forward next to 1st gear and not back next to 6th.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

6th gear? Thought you installed a F35? BTW reverse on the F40 is forward next to 1st gear and not back next to 6th.
View attachment 48737

You're right it is an f35. I had forgotten it was just a 5 speed. Guess that narrows down the possibilities lol

 

[Rttoys]

7/16”-20 for the seatbelt bolt.

I like that 3rd brake light. Where did you find it?

 

[TheAnesthetist]

7/16”-20 for the seatbelt bolt.

I like that 3rd brake light. Where did you find it?

I'm really pleased with how it turned out

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[Rttoys]

Seems like it just belongs there. I like that.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Brakes bled with no problems. Haven't bled the clutch yet but I already have a substantial amount of brake fluid dripping from the bell housing. I suppose that means there's an issue with the TOB. Sigh.

I'll try to investigate the elbow. Everything seems dry up there. Maybe its an issue with that pesky o-ring.

 

[Gtstorey]

Make sure to check the "elbow" on top of the transmission. It can leak directly into the bell housing and then out.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Make sure to check the "elbow" on top of the transmission. It can leak directly into the bell housing and then out.

Roger that. Hate how that's basically the least accessible place on the whole car. I saw a thread from 2 years ago that discussed a similar issue. I'll use that as a guide. Fingers crossed the engine doesn't have to come back out.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

dug in there and got the elbow out. Used a pick to get this little gasket out of the elbow. Is it supposed to go on the tip of the pipe before I put the elbow back on? @Traé is this what was wrong with yours?

 

[Rttoys]

Correct. Put it on the pipe, then the fitting snaps on top

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Thanks gents. That appears to have solved the leak. I think I'll sit and watch it for a bit before moving on to bleeding the thing.

Also 86ed the counterweight to help gain access to the clutch elbow. I hit all 5 gears and reverse now. Still no reverse lights though. Fuse is good. Head scratcher but it can wait.

 

[Rauq]

The reverse light switch and the boost bypass control solenoid plugs can be swapped. Don't ask me how I know.

To reiterate for future builders coming across this, that seal has to be on the nipple when the elbow is installed on top of it, not starting inside the elbow. I believe a builder or two have also double-gasketed that seal as well, which works even less.

 

[comegetjoe]

To reiterate for future builders coming across this, that seal has to be on the nipple when the elbow is installed on top of it, not starting inside the elbow. I believe a builder or two have also double-gasketed that seal as well, which works even less.

Hmmm, good to know. I definitely had something inside of my elbow when I put it on. It clicked into place firmly. Makes me wonder now.

 

[Rauq]

Unless you bought extra or replacement clutch hardware, I think you'd have a hard time coming up with an extra gasket. I'm only aware of that because a few builders have come to find out that you can't buy just the seal.

I think folks around here do a good job of reminding others that the gasket needs to be on the nipple, not in the elbow. As I recall, though, a few builders bought new clutch hydraulic hardware for one reason or another and saw a gasket on the nipple and assumed they were good. The seal likes to stick in the elbow, though, which is how I imagine you'd set up for double gasketing. That's where I emphasize, not only ensure you have a seal on the nipple, but also that you don't have a seal in the elbow when you install it.

 

[Gtstorey]

I had the double gasket since I had a new transmission.