V1 David's Track ,street goblin - in NJ

[Robinjo]

if lowering the tire pressure and such doesn’t fix it, I’d look at the alignment to see if anything is off.

This. A good alignment is critical. Some sort of front aero wouldn’t hurt either.

 

[David]

This. A good alignment is critical. So sort of front aero wouldn’t hurt either.

Im going to change the intermediate shaft 1st. Then lower the pressure like @Rttoys suggested. I do have the group buy front splitter that was never installed by the previous builder.

 

[Rttoys]

That’s helps a ton, but would like to make sure all else is covered before you put it on.

 

[David]

That’s helps a ton, but would like to make sure all else is covered before you put it on.

Yeap don't feel like chasing my tail more then I am already. Ill do small changes at a time. I will be asking for lots of advice lol

 

[David]

Ok little update date, I replaced the intermediate shaft with a Dorman 425-109 and its very beefy. Way more then the OEM one that was on. The play is completely gone.

 

[David]

What an interest in find while looking over the front end.

 

[SmsDetroit]

Well that’s not good

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Good thing you found that. Could have been a serious failure.

 

[David]

Good thing you found that. Could have been a serious failure.

Yes sir, now I have to find the specs to thise nuts and use some Loctite

 

[Gtstorey]

Based upon the mechanical skills of some of the people building Goblins, I wouldn't drive one built by someone else without putting a wrench on every nut & bolt on the car.

 

[David]

Based upon the mechanical skills of some of the people building Goblins, I wouldn't drive one built by someone else without putting a wrench on every nut & bolt on the car.

Thats totally true, I bought it reading and believing it was built amazingly. There are some great thought out parts but others where skipped or left behind.

Would be nice to see if there is a cutout sheet with torque specs for all suspension parts.

 

[Gtstorey]

Yes sir, now I have to find the specs to thise nuts and use some Loctite

They are just a standard course metric thread. Anything class 8.8 or better will work. They are long enough to double nut instead of loctite.

 

[David]

They are just a standard course metric thread. Anything class 8.8 or better will work. They are long enough to double nut instead of loctite.

Oh not a bad idea using a double nut. Might give it a shot with the 2nd nut without the flange.

 

[Gtstorey]

A washer and nut without a flange will work just as well for the first nut.

 

[David]

Ok so a little update, I got everything put together again and installed the two nuts that where missing. I took it out for a spin to see if the intermediate shaft took care of the handing and it didn't. So came back home dropped pressure to 18PSI like @Rttoys suggested. Went back out for a test drive, it a little better but still super unstable.

Im waiting on turn tables to get the current allignment specs. To compare them to what everyone recommends is a good start.

Also definitely have to get a Fire extinguisher. Some reason a fuel line quick connect popped out. Thank God nothing caught on fire and I was able to pop it back on to get home. Going to change that out for a AN fittings instead of that push fitting.

 

[David]

So just looked back at my old pictures to see if i can tell if that quick connect was on correctly. I found a picture of that connection it it seems that it was never pushed in all the way. Not sure how it lasted so long. Still going to change it out because not safe if it pops out again.

 

[David]

Ok so a little update, fuel line was fixed. Removed that quick connect and did a ORB to AN adapter.

- Snice im having serious issues with the handing and I done what @Rttoys recommend now I have to move on to the next step and check the alignment. To be able to get a starting point and see if im off.

- Snice im always trying to make everything difficult. I found a YouTube video of a system you can 3d print and use lasers to align a car. Im in the process of getting that all printed up. Also Im going to make so adjustable stands so everything is nice and level.

Im going to incorporate turn tables and also scales that I can corner balance if needed. Thats where I got out of hand and over my head, but I figured it out.

- I bought four 660lb package stand and decided to take them apart and use Arduino to link them all together and get different parameters. Keep in mind I have never coded in my life or messed with micro boards. I finished everything up and its reading perfectly. The 4 scacles will run a rechargeable battery that should last about 10hrs. For the screen anything can be used from a tablet to phone.

 

[Keckster]

- I bought four 660lb package stand and decided to take them apart and use Arduino to link them all together and get different parameters. Keep in mind I have never coded in my life or messed with micro boards. I finished everything up and its reading perfectly. The 4 scacles will run a rechargeable battery that should last about 10hrs. For the screen anything can be used from a tablet to phone.

Love the package scales idea! is the underside/body of the scales plastic or did you find a set that was fully metal? I used a set a while ago but the plastic body started to crack after a few uses and they lost their accuracy...

 

[David]

Love the package scales idea! is the underside/body of the scales plastic or did you find a set that was fully metal? I used a set a while ago but the plastic body started to crack after a few uses and they lost their accuracy...

Unfortunately they are plastic, let see how much they hold up. Didn't want to order some expensive ones as I wasn't sure if my idea was going to work.

There is a video i just found on YouTube with a similar idea. If mine dont last ill make something like this.

 

[David]

Ok I updated the code and it looks better and I added more features.