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V1 Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

Tinkles
Have you tried removing and reinstalling the fuel tank with the CAD designed water tank attached to it? My tank is 43" wide and is tricky to get in place. Thankfully I think I only have to install it one more time. Yours looks a tad longer and even less fun to install.
 
PaulPerger
No speedholes in the fuel tank (I would have been disappointed if someone didn't say this), but a mod is needed none the less (yep, can't leave anything untouched). Plan to add a 1.75 gallon water tank next to the fuel tank - this is mockup #2 on this idea from a while back. It will be welded on to the end of the existing gas tank with a common wall between the two.
View attachment 34168
View attachment 34169
It's a tight squeeze to fit - at 6.5 inches longer - but is the most logical place for this tank. Since I already put a water neck filler into my custom fuel filler flange, this is a no-brainer. (If you look closely the filler on the left is labeled 'WATER').
View attachment 34171
This water tank will be used for spray on the A2W intercooler heat exchangers to help enhance cooling - which works well in the desert low humidity. And yes, I have thought about cooling requirements for a long time and how to-beat-the-heat! :cool:

Cool set up and idea... I may do something similar for Meth. But I am going to have to make my Meth spout green (I store my Meth in green gas cans) or something REALLY obvious so as to not accidentally put the wrong fluid down the wrong hole!
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Made some new progress this morning, the engine and transmission are hung in the chassis for the first time.
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I can now see how the bend in the middle frame tube on the driver's side just clears the top rear corner of the F40 transmission.
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Had to slot one of the driver's side mounting holes for the transmission mount to get the those holes to line up without forcing anything.
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Overall I'm happy with the fit so far. Now I need to start measuring and test fitting some accessories to get brackets made to mount them. Then I will start tackling my big project to eliminate the Cobalt subframe. Oh and no one outside of Arizona has more heat than we are experiencing now during monsoon - 90 plus degrees before the sun comes up and 110 degrees plus with dew points at 70 or more - and everything you touch is 110 degrees hot. I'm not complaining, but that dry heat thing is a myth in July and August! :cool:
 
JBINTX
Made some new progress this morning, the engine and transmission are hung in the chassis for the first time.
View attachment 34331
View attachment 34332
I can now see how the bend in the middle frame tube on the driver's side just clears the top rear corner of the F40 transmission.
View attachment 34330
Had to slot one of the driver's side mounting holes for the transmission mount to get the those holes to line up without forcing anything.
View attachment 34333
Overall I'm happy with the fit so far. Now I need to start measuring and test fitting some accessories to get brackets made to mount them. Then I will start tackling my big project to eliminate the Cobalt subframe. Oh and no one outside of Arizona has more heat than we are experiencing now during monsoon - 90 plus degrees before the sun comes up and 110 degrees plus with dew points at 70 or more - and everything you touch is 110 degrees hot. I'm not complaining, but that dry heat thing is a myth in July and August! :cool:
Wahoooooo
You are almost done now!!!…….
;)
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Approximate location choices for the A2W intercooler. Not certain if it will be mounted vertically or horizontally yet. Final routing of the boost tube from the turbo to the intercooler will make that determination. Either way it will be quite visible, but not on top of the valve cover, and it will ultimately displace the fusebox to a different location - my wiring harness will definitely be non-standard.
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Sooo many things that I need to test fit, that are not DF standard issue! :eek::p
 
RCK605
Your build thread makes me want to build a second one before I've even really started building the first just to go wild with modifications and redesign.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
That's the magic of the DF kit, you can build it 'stock' as Lonny intended or you can modify and fabricate to your heart's content. The Goblin is what you make it to be. :D

Engineering something to experiment with an idea and/or make it better is my biggest downfall AND my greatest asset. Guess it all depends upon how someone else views the way I have chosen to build my Goblin - which will not be identical to any other Goblin built. :cool:
 
RCK605
I'd design and build from scratch, but unfortunately I don't have a fab shop in my garage. Maybe one day I will, but until then I'll start with the DF chassis.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Complex tools are not needed to fabricate most stuff. I have a drill press, MIG welder, tube notcher, and a bench vice that I utilize to do almost all of my fabrication. Being creative and staying within the limitations of the tools available - and expecting to make some mistakes - you can fabricate many different things for the Goblin that make it your own. :D
 
Desert Sasqwatch
CADBOARD, what a wonderful invention! Mockup of the 1.5 gallon (I made it slightly larger) water/meth tank that will be located behind the passenger seat. 14X14X22 triangle shape 4 inches deep, welded aluminum tank. Will have to be fabricated up along with my water tank that will be next to the fuel tank.
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Desert Sasqwatch
Has anyone taken notice the engine is tilted back as mounted in the DF frame? I'm measuring this at about 11-12 degrees. I'm assuming this angle was an accommodation of the Cobalt packaging for the sloped hood? I also have to believe the angle was kept by Lonny in the design to keep the supercharger on the LSJ up and away from the fuel tank?

I'm doing some measuring and believe the engine/transmission could be rotated forward several degrees. On the LNF (and most likely on a N/A) there is not an interference issue with the fuel tank or anything else that I can see if the engineis rotated forward (and slightly down). This would allow for more space between the top back edge of the valve cover and the strut mounting crossbar. It would also make the throttlebody entry angle more vertical on the LNF, giving a bit more space to the corner on the fuel tank to route the charge pipe.

Please feel free to leave comment on this idea or let me know if anyone has tried this with success or failure. :D
 
Ross
I have room for my exercise bag on top of the gas tank, and between the supercharger and rear firewall. There seems to be a fair bit of room even with the supercharger.
 
baustin
Has anyone taken notice the engine is tilted back as mounted in the DF frame? I'm measuring this at about 11-12 degrees. I'm assuming this angle was an accommodation of the Cobalt packaging for the sloped hood? I also have to believe the angle was kept by Lonny in the design to keep the supercharger on the LSJ up and away from the fuel tank?
Since the subframe and subframe mounts are reused, the engine tilt is locked to the subframe level. I would figure the subframe is pretty close to parallel to the ground in most builds. Oil pan level is maintained that way too.
 
JBINTX
Has anyone taken notice the engine is tilted back as mounted in the DF frame? I'm measuring this at about 11-12 degrees. I'm assuming this angle was an accommodation of the Cobalt packaging for the sloped hood? I also have to believe the angle was kept by Lonny in the design to keep the supercharger on the LSJ up and away from the fuel tank?

I'm doing some measuring and believe the engine/transmission could be rotated forward several degrees. On the LNF (and most likely on a N/A) there is not an interference issue with the fuel tank or anything else that I can see if the engineis rotated forward (and slightly down). This would allow for more space between the top back edge of the valve cover and the strut mounting crossbar. It would also make the throttlebody entry angle more vertical on the LNF, giving a bit more space to the corner on the fuel tank to route the charge pipe.

Please feel free to leave comment on this idea or let me know if anyone has tried this with success or failure. :D
Yes. Angled.
careful. If you do not rotate it about the axle centerline on the block, you may add to the offset of the cv shaft’s operational envelope.
Maybe you are talking a small distance though?
Also, rotating forward would put the 180 deg intake tube in even more of a pinch. It already presses against the corner of the fuel reservoir.
Just a few thoughts…
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Are all GM engine oil coolers configured with one pipe facing forward and the other backward? Do they have the pipes facing in other directions? I tried to pull them (2.2, 2.4, LSJ) up on Rockauto, but nothing had pics except the LNF TC.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Yes. Angled.
careful. If you do not rotate it about the axle centerline on the block, you may add to the offset of the cv shaft’s operational envelope.
Maybe you are talking a small distance though?
Also, rotating forward would put the 180 deg intake tube in even more of a pinch. It already presses against the corner of the fuel reservoir.
Just a few thoughts…
Thanks for the inputs on rotating the engine/transmission forward. I was thinking I would get a few more discussion points, maybe others are taking the weekend off? :p The cautions all make sense and are very valid points for the stock subframe, the charge pipe routing and the axle angle in relation to the strut suspension.

I will be experimenting a bit with this, since I don't ever recall seeing anyone try it. I will post up some additional information once I get this checked out. Stay tuned.
 
Rauq
Are all GM engine oil coolers configured with one pipe facing forward and the other backward? Do they have the pipes facing in other directions? I tried to pull them (2.2, 2.4, LSJ) up on Rockauto, but nothing had pics except the LNF TC.
The LSJ oil cooler has both pipes facing rearwards, but it also has a unique thermostat housing that matches up with two short parallel hoses between the two.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
A single 1/2 inch hole thru 1 inch of steel, quite the pile of metal shavings and about 1/2 of them had fallen off the top of the piece for this pic:
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Remember: removing ounces at a time total up to pounds lost - and they all all add up in the end! :p

Update on the weight factor in my build to date: weight added (in steel tubes, plates, etc) = 24 lbs (does not include the bolt in harness bar); weight removed (from the steel parts with speedholes, trimming, etc) = 19.5 lbs. So I am net +4.5 lbs, but have added some structural strength and convenience and amenities that I want to include in my build. My goal is to offset the weight of all the 'nice to have' things with all of the lost metal shavings going to the recycler. Upcoming more weight changes - hopefully on the losing side if all works as planned. :D
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Lost 15 pounds last year, been holding steady since then. But, my losing some more weight is something my wife would be glad to see!!! She keeps trying to get me to play pickleball with her, maybe after we get out of the 100+ degree temperatures - maybe. ;):cool:
 
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