V1 Jenna's Extended Track Goblin - 07 ss/sc donor

[Rttoys]

I can look for the part number tomorrow at work.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

gm 21018743 COVER,CLUTCH HOUSING

 

[jennam]

gm 21018743 COVER,CLUTCH HOUSING

Thank you!

 

[jennam]

So yeah… made a fun discovery yesterday…

I’m trying to get the goblin back together and I’m finally to a point to try and start it… except, it tries to start as soon as I hook the battery up…

Some beating and banging and cussing later, looks like the brand new starter I got has a bad solenoid so it’s getting RMA’ed…

Yeah… fun times….

 

[jirwin]

So yeah… made a fun discovery yesterday…

I’m trying to get the goblin back together and I’m finally to a point to try and start it… except, it tries to start as soon as I hook the battery up…

Some beating and banging and cussing later, looks like the brand new starter I got has a bad solenoid so it’s getting RMA’ed…

Yeah… fun times….

Man that's frustrating. Was it brand brand new or a "brand new" reman like most auto parts stores sell? My dad and I went thru hell trying to get his F150 starter fixed. Ended up going brand new OEM in the end and it has worked fine since. I cringed when I dropped my started on the ground during disassembly a few weeks ago. Fingers crossed I don't have to get a new one myself.

 

[jennam]

It's supposed to be "Brand New" but it's from Rock Auto so who knows... This happens with every project I do. When I first built the goblin, I ordered a bunch of stuff and ended up with a bad alternator that was supposed to be brand new.

 

[jennam]

Finally getting back to the goblin. I replaced the starter and found a couple more electrical gremlins and now it turns over when I turn the key. The problem now is it won't actually start. Well... it actually did start once for about 3-4 seconds and now it just cranks but never actually tries to start.

The fuel pump primes and the injectors are spraying, the plugs spark, I'm out of ideas aside from starting to pull the motor back apart looking for problems.

Here's a video of it cranking. I'd appreciate any other ideas y'all may have.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Assuming you are using gas and nor E85, if you pull the spark plugs after cranking, do you smell fuel? Since it did run for a short period of time, have to believe the electrical is (mostly) working. Sounds like you have fuel and spark - maybe timing? Was the timing chain worked on?

 

[jennam]

Assuming you are using gas and nor E85, if you pull the spark plugs after cranking, do you smell fuel? Since it did run for a short period of time, have to believe the electrical is (mostly) working. How long have you cranked the engine? Could be a lot of air in the system and it takes some time to work itself out.

You can definitely smell fuel and the spark plugs are wet. Over the last couple days, we've probably cranked the engine for 10-15 minutes.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If you put your palm over the intake pipe end while cranking you can feel it pulling air? Same for the exhaust pipe, but pushing air? Can you smell raw gas at the exhaust pipe? If so the spark is not firing off the fuel mixture. Timing?

 

[jennam]

Well poo. I just found the problem.......... I sure hope nothing else is broken.......

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Oh no! that's not good. That will definitely prevent a start, sorry about that. How did you decide to remove the valve cover?

 

[jennam]

Oh no! that's not good. That will definitely prevent a start, sorry about that. How did you decide to remove the valve cover?

I was starting down the timing path. The valve cover was the easiest to remove so I started there. I was going to pull the timing cover and oil pan too but I saw those broken bits so I stopped there.

Now to the hard question. Do I just replace the rockers and cross my fingers or do I pull the head and verify that nothing fell into the cylinders......?

 

[Brett]

Pull the plugs and scope the cylinders.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The cam (exhaust?) and follower/rockers will need to be replaced at a minimum from the photo. The valve tips will need to be inspected, any with even minor damage will need replacement. As @Brett stated, a borescope check of the cylinders would be a good idea, checking to see if any piston top damage - if found it's possible there could be valves damaged. The oil pan should be dropped to determine if anything found its way down there. Unfortunately with broken valve train components many times there is lots of hidden damages.

 

[Rttoys]

Ugh. I was going to say it sound like a compression issue. That’s not good. I have an extra engine and Scott has an extra head, if I remember correctly. Of course shipping could be costly. Or roadtrip

 

[jennam]

The rockers that broke are on the intake side.

We're gonna pull the head, timing cover, and oil pan tomorrow night and verify the majority of the components. I think I found all the bits of the broken rockers so hopefully there won't be any parts floating about. We'll have to do all that no matter what since we'll need to retime the engine after we replace all the rockers.

 

[Scott #321]

Bummer hope it doesn't effect your autocross season.

 

[jennam]

We partially dismantled the engine last night. It looks like the intake cam sprocket came loose and spun out of time and that’s how we ended up breaking the rockers.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

OUCH! Either someone under torqued and the bolts backed out to allow the gear to move and eventually break OR someone over torqued the bolts and they fatigued and broke off. It's a real mess no matter how it happened, sorry to see this is becoming a bigger job with everything you disassemble.