V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[Chris_WNC]

Sound like you got it.

 

[jirwin]

I've gotten all but two grounds figured out I think.

There's the one on the back of the head @Chris_WNC was able to verify.

This one goes under the fuse box:

Then I have two over kinda in front of the engine. The first (foreground) branches off near the alternator plug. The second (background, sitting on tank) is further back. Where do those ones go? For the life of me I can't remember.

 

[Gtstorey]

Ground them where ever they will reach. As long as they have a clean metal path back to the negative terminal of the battery.

 

[jirwin]

Where are the "built in" grounds though? Based on proximity I'm wondering if they were previously bolted to the engine or something. I don't see any other ground studs at the moment

 

[SmsDetroit]

Where are the "built in" grounds though? Based on proximity I'm wondering if they were previously bolted to the engine or something. I don't see any other ground studs at the moment

mine has one under the fuse box in the back, one on the steering column mount and one next to the battery

 

[jirwin]

Subframe and suspension in. Need compressors to install the top of the struts. Going to fill with fluid and make sure it turns over tomorrow and if it turns over I'll install the intake and supercharger. Then I gotta find a new belt because of the ATI super damper. Getting close!!

 

[Robinjo]

Will it even start without the SC and MAF in line?

 

[jirwin]

Good question lol. Its all plugged in just sitting there. I just wanted to see if it'd turn over so I could prime the oil pump and make sure that the starter is wired properly. I tried a minute ago, but I think the battery is low. My USB chsrger/voltage display says 8.8V lol. That's after leaving it on the charger for 2 hours. So, dead battery. Yipee.

That being said, the gauge cluster turns on, and the lights turn on. Fuel pump doesn't prime.The gauge cluster says POWER STEERING. I remember seeing someone else with that error, but I can't remember what the solution was. Probably grounds. I'll keep digging tomorrow

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Get a battery first that can provide more than the 10.5 volts needed for many things in the electrical system to 'wake up' and operate properly. pretty certain several messages/errors will go away - including the power steering message.

 

[snirtman]

That's after leaving it on the charger for 2 hours. So, dead battery.

If you've got time, or if you're a cheapskate like me, don't give up on your "dead" battery just yet. I've bought many auction cars with "dead" batteries and have saved all but one of them. First, disconnect both terminals from the car. Better to remove the battery from the car, but on some cars that's nearly impossible.

What usually works for me is to first try a trickle charger. If it shows its not charging, go to Plan B (below), but if it is, let it chooch. It could take a couple days:

If the trickle charger won't charge the battery I switch to Plan B. Start with a conventional battery charger on a high-ish setting (10A+). The charger should have a meter on it to show whether or not the battery is drawing power. If it is, leave it charging for an hour or two. After a couple hours remove the conventional charger and attach a trickle charger. If either of the chargers isn't charging, first make sure your clamp connections are good. If the connections are good and the battery still isn't drawing a charge, its probably toast.

 

[jirwin]

Well, its a ground issue then I imagine. Took battery back to autozone and it tests fine. So I have something else going on

 

[Gtstorey]

I've not had much luck with the usb charger/voltmeters. They always seem to fail quickly to reading low. Put a real voltmeter to it.

 

[jirwin]

I've not had much luck with the usb charger/voltmeters. They always seem to fail quickly to reading low. Put a real voltmeter to it.

Autozone tested it and said it was fine

 

[Gtstorey]

I’ve heard to many bad things about part store battery testing to trust them.

 

[jirwin]

Foreground ground went to alternator, background went to starter stud. It cranked! I figured it was a ground with all the talk of it you see here haha

 

[comegetjoe]

Foreground ground went to alternator, background went to starter stud. It cranked! I figured it was a ground with all the talk of it you see here haha

Its ALWAYS a ground.

 

[Robinjo]

Ground for the loss again….
So glad I added extra grounding connections in my harness. I made sure every ground lug had a wire running to an extra lug that attaches to the ground post by the battery.

 

[Rauq]

@Gtstorey can we get an update to the ground fault tracker?

Grounds up to 62%

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/power-steering-on-dash-no-start.4255/post-84243

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/power-steering-on-dash-no-start.4255/post-84251

 

[Gtstorey]

I figure that we have had about 1/3 of the cars that are “built” on this forum had no start issues, so somewhere around 100-150 cars at this point. So every ground issue pushes it up about 1 %. And I don’t know that we have had anything thing else recently.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Our 17 Jeep batt died strangely in Sept 23. We had been rough back roading in Wyoming all day, got to a highway Scenic View, rested a few min, then no start! I roll started the jeep and thankfully town was just 6 mi down the mountain. We rolled into O'Reilly with fingers and toes crossed! They brought out their tester, ~9V!, very sad. They took the battery out and put it on/in their battery test cabinet. TEST, Suddenly +12V! A miracle recovery?! I asked him to test it again and just as he pressed the test button I kicked the cabinet down low setting up a vibration, the test machine went bonkers, 9, then 12, then 13, then 9v.(I wish I could do that to slot machines!) A corroded bad cell in the battery. This was just a normal stock Mopar battery. I think the plates just happened to line back up momentarily putting out 12V for the test, but when I kicked the cabinet the failing cell shifted again, shorting out internally. We bought a GEL type battery. This was the original battery, so it was ~5+ y/o, I'm not complaining! Batteries with bulged sides are questionable, over 3 years old?, I have ZERO faith. In 40 years of cars I've had a brand new battery die in a week and I have had a used battery I pulled from a car I was scrapping function for about another 8 years. Batteries are plastic boxes full of lead, acid and mysteries. JK!