V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[jirwin]

Waiting on parts again, so I figured I'd look at some other things. Looks like the stock LSJ belt is going to be too short with my current setup. I'm running a phenolic intake spacer, m62 spacer (for methanol), and an ATI OD damper. If you had do delete the phenolic or the m62 spacer, which would you delete? Obviously deleting the phenolic is "free", whereas deleting the m62 spacer would require OTTP or ZZP's throttle body spacer to inject the methanol pre instead of post blower. The only downside I've heard to injecting meth pre blower is that it can take off that black coating on the rotors. That was on CSS.net though, and I've learned to take things from there with a grain of salt.

 

[Gtstorey]

Have you checked a gates belt catalog to see if you find one slightly longer?

 

[jirwin]

Also an option, but I'd like to keep stock length if I can for availability

 

[Gtstorey]

Get a longer one and buy several. And it might be easily available if you have a part number.

 

[Ross]

Run a smaller pulley on the supercharger?

 

[Rauq]

While there aren't any belts slightly shorter than a stock SS/SC, necessitating the special GM Stage 2 belt or a larger tensioner pulley, there are a handful of slightly longer belts. These are Dayco part numbers, but you should be able to cross reference these to other brands. They're all 6 rib .82 in wide. Each of the below part numbers or a Continental/Gates/etc cross are in stock at my local parts store. Summit Racing is a good place to find makes and models of vehicles that associate with a part number. The second looks like it goes with a few Porsche and Volvo models, the other three look like they fit various Volvos.

PN----------Length
6060702 --- 70.19 <- stock Cobalt SS/SC
6060719 --- 71.85
6060724 --- 72.44
6060728 --- 72.84
6060730 --- 73.03

 

[Ross]

Do 8 rib belts offer more size selection? Would cutting an 8 rib belt down to a 6 rib belt cause any issues?

 

[Rauq]

Not that it'd be useful here, but for more usual pulley-down setups, that might actually be a workable alternative. Stock belts are 70.19" and the next smaller 6 rib is 67.25", but in 8 rib there are 6 belts in between those two sizes.

 

[Gtstorey]

Rockauto has all but the 6060728 on sale right now.

 

[Ross]

What is the 8 rib selection in the useful-here sizes (>70")?

 

[jirwin]

Rockauto has all but the 6060728 on sale right now.

I was going to buy this but with shipping its not worth it. I found a 2012 BMW 740i has the slightly longer belt and my local autoparts has it in stock for $5 more than RockAuto + shipping.

 

[jirwin]

Ok! I was able to get everything working! Well... not officially as I haven't driven it yet, but things are looking good! I was able to start and run the car with the entire LSJ belt routing setup on it. I was even able to use the stock length belt (3.0 + phenolic + tensioner pulley as idler + ATI OD)!

I ditched the M62 spacer because it looks like a pain to route the methanol injection that way. For sale if anyone wants it.

The tensioner that @Rauq suggested worked! It was from a similar year Porsche Cayenne (2003-2006)

Modifications from stock:

• The LSJ Head doesn't have the motor mount the LE5/LAP has, so I needed to grind that down a bit to get both the pulley and the tensioner to fit. Clearances are tight, but look good
• The idler pulley was broken, so I had to replace it with a tensioner pulley, which is smaller. All the stores say that they have the idler pulley, but it is in fact the tensioner pulley. Oh well, it worked out in the end because I needed that tiny bit of extra play. I had to grind down a ring on the idler that was hitting. You can't see it since its covered by the pulley, which is great
• Ground a bit off the side of the tensioner to get it to move without hitting the head
• Lightly die grinded the timing cover to allow the belt to fit with the ATI OD
• I also used the LSJ alternator (which was cheaper than the base model some how??). I had to get a plug (Dorman 645-569) to adapt the turn on/off circuit so it works. I haven't tested this yet, but I matched up the wiring from both model's schematics so I can't imagine their would be a problem. Cross that bridge when we get to it.
• Replaced the positive lead coming from the alternator. It was about an inch too short. So I took the opportunity to replace it with a thicker 4ga copper core wire, with nice copper ends

 

[jirwin]

Good and bad news. Good news is the belt worked great! Yipee! Bad news is its STILL overheating. I parked it to let it cool off before I took it home. Realized that the radiator was ice cold, as were the lines after the water pump (drivers side). It drank 2/3rds of a gallon of coolant when I got home. I'm HOPING it was just another inconvenient bubble in the system. It wasn't this hard to bleed the first go round... But I also didn't have a completely dry block either time. Buying another gallon of coolant to keep on me in the meantime

 

[Rttoys]

Hopefully just a bubble.

 

[jirwin]

Seems that it was a bubble! I got 10 miles (mostly) uninterrupted in! I still have to baby it down to idle to get it to not stall, but it worked! I have tomorrow off so I'm going to see if I can get a log first thing tomorrow morning and figure out what its doing

 

[jirwin]

A few updates. As seen in https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/lsj-m62-intake.4553 , I figured out my stall returning to idle issue. Everything seems to be working great now. At least, good enough to fully break in the engine.

I also got my methanol injection fully installed, pics to come later when I find a spot to mount the controller.

I want to clean up some stuff, so I'm ordering an aftermarket coolant tank to give me some more space. I also want to get a better mount for the boost reference fuel pressure system, so I'm looking into options there. There are adapters from that click on evap style line to AN that I can get that will work for everything except for the fuel pump itself. The plastic lines are moulded to the pump cap. Any ideas there?

 

[Ross]

So you fixed the stall issue by helping the MAF get good airflow? By lengthening all the hose connection spots, to maximize the length of the intake, and installed the airflow straighener right before the MAF?

 

[jirwin]

So you fixed the stall issue by helping the MAF get good airflow? By lengthening all the hose connection spots, to maximize the length of the intake, and installed the airflow straighener right before the MAF?

More or less yes. MAF in the tube right after the filter. Before the MAF is a straightener. For good measure and to get more length I used a 45 degree fitting instead of a 90 degree. Also made sure than the intake pipe wasn't too far into the filter so that it didn't disrupt the bell mouth in the filter.

 

[jirwin]

Regarding the fuel pump hose, I think I'm going to cut the nylon hose, and shove in a barbed EVAP fitting that I can crimp on. From there I've read that you can use nylon fuel line to make your own psuedo hard-line. Its formable with heat. Seems like a good solution to tidying up the tubing a bit

 

[jirwin]

Cardboard intake heat shield seems to be working. I'm going to make it out of 3D printed parts and chloroplast when completely finished. A quick test on lunch seemed to work, but after work when its back up near 80F will be the real test. Seems to have dropped IAT2's by 5-10F. Once fully sealed I'm hoping it'll do a bit more.

I might put little louvers on the outside to direct cold air in. Noticed how big of a difference those made this weekend driving my DRZ. My dad and I both have DRZ400's. His has aluminum radiator guards that don't have any louvers. Mine has the stock plastic louvers. My fan never turned on, while his did. Forcing some cool air in there should help.