V1 Josh's MN Track Goblin #379, 08 LS donor

[Rttoys]

It was something SACTX and I were experimenting with to eliminate rear toe movement as the suspension cycles. Then Lonny released the new subframe setup and I/we shelved the project. I told JMar about it at goblinfest and he asked to finish and test it.

Handling results should be almost identical to the new DF subframe. The only movement you will have will be at the front bushings, as the rears were changed to the spherical bushings. That movement will be very minimal though. The only concern is fatigue at the control arm where the tie rod now mounts. That’s what we are keeping an eye on.

If the arms can handle it and the performance results are where I think they will be, cost to duplicate would be less than $500, depending on if you can weld aluminum or know someone who can for minimal cost.
Aluminum Control arms - $160
Spherical bushings- $130
Tie rod stuff - less than $200
Scrap aluminum and welding $???

 

[Traé]

It was something SACTX and I were experimenting with to eliminate rear toe movement as the suspension cycles. Then Lonny released the new subframe setup and I/we shelved the project. I told JMar about it at goblinfest and he asked to finish and test it.

Handling results should be almost identical to the new DF subframe. The only movement you will have will be at the front bushings, as the rears were changed to the spherical bushings. That movement will be very minimal though. The only concern is fatigue at the control arm where the tie rod now mounts. That’s what we are keeping an eye on.

If the arms can handle it and the performance results are where I think they will be, cost to duplicate would be less than $500, depending on if you can weld aluminum or know someone who can for minimal cost.
Aluminum Control arms - $160
Spherical bushings- $130
Tie rod stuff - less than $200
Scrap aluminum and welding $???

That is very interesting. I’ll have to keep an eye on this thread for any updates with Jmar’s car. I need to replace my bushings as the wondering I have can be very bad and unexpected. Thank you for the explanation!

 

[Markm]

That is very interesting. I’ll have to keep an eye on this thread for any updates with Jmar’s car. I need to replace my bushings as the wondering I have can be very bad and unexpected. Thank you for the explanation!

Could always upgrade to the tubular subframe I built the wife’s with the tubular subframe so I never got to experience the factory subframe but it is very nice looking, stable driving and lighter weight.

 

[Jmar1622]

Could always upgrade to the tubular subframe I built the wife’s with the tubular subframe so I never got to experience the factory subframe but it is very nice looking, stable driving and lighter weight.

I still might be going to this at some point, but right now the money is going to a new engine and turbo. This is an economical solution for the time being and if it fixes the bump steer issue and doesn't cause any other issues it might be a permanent fixture.

 

[Rauq]

I wonder if this would be easier/cheaper to replicate with the FE1 stamped steel arms? Instead of welding cast aluminum.

edit: I wonder if the Moog K201285 spherical bearing bushing that fits the FE3/FE5 aluminum control arms also works with the FE1 control arms? Otherwise, scratch that idea.

 

[Jmar1622]

I wonder if this would be easier/cheaper to replicate with the FE1 stamped steel arms? Instead of welding cast aluminum.

edit: I wonder if the Moog K201285 spherical bearing bushing that fits the FE3/FE5 aluminum control arms also works with the FE1 control arms? Otherwise, scratch that idea.

I would think there would be some flex in the stamped steel control arms. So it might cause movement in there. They also may not support the clamping pressure of the bolt. It might take more fab to support it when the cost of the FE5 arms is not all that much.

Another option for the bushing might be the new zzp solid bushing.

 

[Rauq]

I would think there would be some flex in the stamped steel control arms. So it might cause movement in there. They also may not support the clamping pressure of the bolt. It might take more fab to support it when the cost of the FE5 arms is not all that much.

I don't have any basis for this besides my gut, but do you really think the stamped steel control arm would flex more than the cast aluminum arm? I figured part of the reason for the two different parts was weight, but I hadn't really considered that the stamped steel arm might not be as strong.

I was picturing a sleeve being welded through the stamped steel control arm to mount the tie rod, which I'd imagine is probably easier than welding on the cast aluminum arm.

 

[Jmar1622]

I don't have any basis for this besides my gut, but do you really think the stamped steel control arm would flex more than the cast aluminum arm? I figured part of the reason for the two different parts was weight, but I hadn't really considered that the stamped steel arm might not be as strong.

I was picturing a sleeve being welded through the stamped steel control arm to mount the tie rod, which I'd imagine is probably easier than welding on the cast aluminum arm.

I was thinking a sleeve would have to be added also, but yes i do think it would flex more. Just thinking about it from GMs use, the FE5 is their performance. If the stamped was just as good they wouldn't have spent the extra on the aluminum for their performance models. I also read somewhere on the forums (take that for what it's worth) that the stamped shows flexing over time/under certain circumstances.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Let the metal mites chew on them for a while and they will likely flex all over!

 

[Jmar1622]

Update, the rear control arms are working great. I didn't like the 400lb springs upfront so I put 300lbs back upfront with as much preload as I could and it rides so much better. I will probably switch to the variable rate 10" setup in the spring.

The full windshield changed how air moves in the cockpit. So Charlie designed a foot scoop for me. I printed a mold and laid up so fiberglass. I designed a door and he programmed an arduino to control them.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Great engineering! Where do your scoops mount? In the hood? In the side panels? Somewhere less obvious?

 

[Jmar1622]

Great engineering! Where do your scoops mount? In the hood? In the side panels? Somewhere less obvious?

They replace the front portion of the side panels

 

[Jmar1622]

Got the scoops installed, and they are great! The ability to adjust the airflow and temperature in the cabin is amazing. Charlie did an awesome job programing the RBG switches the adjust the color as the door opens more.

 

[Rttoys]

That’s awesome. Looks great.

 

[SmsDetroit]

I see another group buy coming

 

[Jmar1622]

I see another group buy coming

Bahahahaha, thats not happening.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Share your vent build details with us, please. It is ingenious and could benefit many builders to have better cockpit airflow. Plus it looks like it provides more foot room to the left of the clutch pedal - something that some of us clearly have a need for.

 

[Jmar1622]

I will post the STL when I get home. Like I said previously, I printed molds and laid up fiberglass, five total layers (don't remember the weights). With the right 3d printer and material, one could probably just print them.

The door and door frame is 3d printed. There is a 10kg micro servo mounted in the base of the door (red circle). It's mounted upside-down, you can see the red servo arm in the frame. There's a 3mm x 300mm rod coming down from the top, through a bearing for the top pivot.

Each side is controlled by its own esp32 arduino and connected to an RBG 5v nonlatching switch that changes color based on door position. It's powered using a 12v to 5v buck converter. I will have to ask Charlie if the code for the arduinos is shareable (I have no idea how that works, it amazes me a 14 year old can do this lol).

As you can see in the red circle, where Charlie's head is, I had already cut out the side panels for my big foot the rest. The scoop mounts over that opening, and does not really interfere with my foot rest.

I already had the fiberglass and resin but probably have about $100 into that for both sides. The servos, wires, buttons, arduinos, development boards, buck converter, rods, bearings and switches were about $150.

Hope this helps and if there's more questions, ask.

 

[Jmar1622]

DF Goblin FootScoop Code

#include <OneButton.h> #include <ESP32Servo.h> // will work with normal Non esp32 servo library #include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h> int DOUT = 4; int COM = 15; // pins for wiring button (Can Change) int NO = 5; int debounce = 100; // changes how fast the program loop to fast causes probl...

docs.google.com

Charlie said this should work for the Arduino code, he said he explained everything in the code for the driver and passenger side.

 

[Jmar1622]

This should be the box for the Arduinos