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V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

M
Electric coolant pump came in today. Glad that the size works with the coolant hose used in the Goblin. Still waiting on some other parts.
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M
New pigtails for the water sensor arrived. I measured 2.7k at room temperature and around 300 ohm at operating temperature. Seems to be a standard NTC resistor. Have a new sensor coming Tuesday and will use that to calibrate the arduino.
 
Ross
Are you planning on driving the electronic water pump with a MOSFET using PWM and an arduino? Are you also going to drive the radiator fan with a relay, like Craig Davies does?
 
M
Are you planning on driving the electronic water pump with a MOSFET using PWM and an arduino? Are you also going to drive the radiator fan with a relay, like Craig Davies does?
Internal yes, external no. The water pump I bought has 4 connectors, 12V and ground. PWM and ground. I believe there is no external MOSFET necessary. It should have an internal one. I have to find out which voltage and frequency the PWM needs.

I wasn't planning to change anything on the Radiator fan. Currently I have the fan wired to a button and switch it manually on and off. Which I almost never need to.

I have the LAP thermostat housing, where I can read the temperature for the electric water pump. I am planning to have the pump speed spinning faster when the temperature goes up, slower when it goes down and have a button to keep it running when the engine is off until it's cold.
 
M
Got some headway on the EWP controller. Program is almost done. Working on calibration of the sensor at the moment. Ran into some RAM issues with the Arduino. I thought I could just record the values of the analog input and save the temperature values in a 2D Array, but ran out of RAM.

Used an XT60 current sensor for measuring the pump energy consumption.

Meanwhile the original controller arrived as well.

Looked at the timing chain cover. I believe it's possible to do the timing chain work with the engine being installed. Seems to be tight but enough clearance. Anyone ever did the timing chain while the engine was installed?


51137
 
M
What are you guys doing to make the gas pedal less touchy? I recall someone used a rc shock absorber. I need something which increases the resistance quite a bit.
 
LLBenJ
I spent several hours and multiple trips around the hood trying to get the gas pedal to have the right feel and response (SC car). I have a double spring set up that I think is giving me a more progressive feel to the pedal. Still a bit touchy on bumps. I've found dialing in your suspension, for whatever use you have, helps a lot as well.
 
M
I wonder if there is something in the ECU which could help making it less touchy. I recall seeing somewhere a table which ZZP or so zeros out and makes the car feel faster due to being more responsive.
 
Keckster
I pretty sure its just cause of how light the gas pedal is on the cobalt and how stiff the suspension is. I've taken a few logs on bumpy roads and mid throttle where you can see how my foot is bouncing up and down on the pedal even though I feel like I am keeping it steady. I don't remember the exact measurement but the throw of the pedal is actually quite short so minor movements are bigger than expected
 
M
Having a strange problem. My kids like to play in the car. Play around with all buttons,... I installed a kill switch after they left the light on the first time. Now they took the key and I can´t find it anymore.

Is there a way to start the Goblin without a key? I dont really need a key. If I stop somewhere it´s never long and I could use the kill switch as a key or take the steering wheel with me.

If not, what´s the best way of geting a new key? Going to a dealership won´t work I guess. Getting a complete new key and assembly?
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Did your ignition switch have the black plastic ring that fit around it with the small connector? If so, then you have a chip inside the key that disables the theft protection. The key is programmed specifically to the BCM. New key would require a reprogramming.
 
M
Did your ignition switch have the black plastic ring that fit around it with the small connector? If so, then you have a chip inside the key that disables the theft protection. The key is programmed specifically to the BCM. New key would require a reprogramming.
I do believe I have the chip and relearned it when I got the new engine (BCM) installed.

Is there a way to disable that system? or make it a push button start,...?
 
Ross
This post talks about BradR made a PK3+ bypass module.

On the LSJ, the Cobalt used PK3+ key security, which uses a key with the + symbol on it, and that ring around the ignition switch that DS mentioned. I have read some builders here have secured the PK3+ key near the ignition switch (tape it into the wiring harness), and then built their own ignition switch method (wireless or start button, etc). This way you bypass the Chevy security, and design your own start method.
 
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