V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

[mike_sno]

Got everything sorted out. I bought this morning just everything at the auto store I could possibly use and will return the rest. I wonder if the auto store sold me first a line they made themselves in the store. They looked crocked and had different nuts at the end. The new lines I got had same length nuts and looked so much better. I ended up with the steel lines.
1x 40 in https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/polya/22190028-P $9.99 for the connection between the valve and the Tee
1x 30 in https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/polya/22190027-P $9.49 for the connection between the master cylinder and the valve
I also used 1 brake line union https://amzn.to/3DpX3Fz $3.38
While I was on it, I also exchanged the complete brake fluid. 1 bottle for $12 from the auto store.

Makes a total of around $80 with everything.

I had the Nicop and Steel lines. I ended up using the steel lines. Call me crazy, but I liked it more working with them. You need more force to bend them, but I feel like they stay better in form and are more stable overall. I could have used a little shorter "custom lines" but i had no issue hiding the lines and they are not in the way of any kind. I ended up not prebending wire,... I just used the wire to determine the length. Then I started from the master cylinder / Tee and worked my way up to the valve. Bended always a little less of what I thought was needed, put it in place and bend the rest. Once I was in the passenger room, I fixed the line and bend it in place. The lines are running between the brake fluid reservoir and the pedal box. I had to cut out a little from the black food cover. Worked out great in my opinion. I am really glad I did not end up using the crocked lines I got first from the auto store.

The knob is now is now located behind the dash board. I will say, that I would loved to have a clear indication of the knob position. I may 3D print me something where I have an indication of the position of the knob.

I just had a short test drive today. It's another front-spoiler-moment!! It brakes no really good!!! First time that I ever saw the rear wheels locking up. and interesting sliding over all 4 wheels. It is sooo much more powerful on the brakes now and I thought it was already good without the valve...

Absolutely necessary upgrade!!

Are there any other things I need?? Spoiler/Splitter, brake bias...

View attachment 20241220_170430 (Small).jpg

 

[mike_sno]

Forgot to mention, I kept the old line from the master cylinder to the tee. This line has 2 different flares. With the union I was able to use just standard lines from the auto store and did not need to flare any end.

 

[Rttoys]

Nice. It definitely is a game changer for sure. I think the prop valve is the most significant upgrade on the goblin, with front aero being second. Now you can attack those brake zones at autocross and have the peace of mind that in an emergency situation on the street, all the brakes got you covered.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Forgot to mention, I kept the old line from the master cylinder to the tee. This line has 2 different flares. With the union I was able to use just standard lines from the auto store and did not need to flare any end.

Interesting to note that a double flare line sealed on a bubble flare tee. I’d keep an eye on it for slow leaking. The end of the actual steel line is the seal surface for the brake pressure and that pressure is really high!

 

[mike_sno]

Interesting to note that a double flare line sealed on a bubble flare tee. I’d keep an eye on it for slow leaking. The end of the actual steel line is the seal surface for the brake pressure and that pressure is really high!

I don't have double flare and bubble flare on one end of the line. Bubble flare is on one side and double flare is on the other.

 

[mike_sno]

Weird questions:

My seat is pretty far back. My seat belts are not tight enough. All adjustments are as short as possible. Having the Corbeau seat belts. Are there any shorter belts available or how did you guys solved it?

Anyone having trouble that the gas pedal is so touchy that of you stiffen up the dampers you drive over a pothole that the engine goes bananas?? I rest my foot one side on the tunnel to avoid that but somehow I wish there would be a better solution. Maybe a stronger spring or damper connected to the gas pedal? I tried already to reduces the Etc torque table in the ECU.

 

[Mahkoi]

There have been some posts on the forum about guys that used a spring to stiffen the pedal. I drag my foot on the tunnel like you are and once I got through my first summer with the car I mostly haven't had an issue. The bumps in the parking garage at work can get a rhythm going that can make it want to hop. I don't have any torque reduction turned on in the PCM.

 

[Rttoys]

You should be able to adjust the mounting straps to set them tighter, other than the belt adjustment themselves.

a stronger spring would be nice, but basically, you’ll just have to learn to have a steady foot.

 

[ah.b.normal]

There was a whole lot of discussion on sensitive throttle pedals. I wish I could point at a cure, but it was well covered in the forum. Search throttle pedal.
I believe that some tried replacing the unit, but I do not recall if that made a difference. It is a sensor, sensing you moving the pedal, maybe it wears out like all old TPS units on throttle body injection did? First movement off idle is the most used segment of the sensors range.
But I do dislike “just throwing parts at the problem”!

 

[Gtstorey]

Using hpt you can check and make sure the accelerator pedal movement seems to give a smooth consistent reading to full pedal.

 

[mike_sno]

Yes my throttle pedal signal looks normal in the log. No sign of wear.

I found the topic in the forum. Will look and try a spring. https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/throttle-control-and-making-it-softer.4802/#post-96800

 

[mike_sno]

Can someone explain me why on my rear brakes the brake disc is very very close and at one spot touches the brake caliper? I can't find anything wrong.

 

[Rttoys]

The caliper should slide on the pins, but if it’s bottomed out, you’ll need to add a washer or 2 to the adapter bracket. Some have had to do this, but not everyone.

 

[mike_sno]

Ok, thank you. Will get a washer and move on. I was wondering if I did something wrong there are already scratches on the caliper from driving. So it's not much...

FYI doing an experiment... I was sick auf seeing the rusty brake discs. I cleaned them and used non high temperature rust-oleum paint direktly on the inner and outter part of the disc and on the other side same paint with high temp primer.

 

[Markm]

Ok, thank you. Will get a washer and move on. I was wondering if I did something wrong there are already scratches on the caliper from driving. So it's not much...

FYI doing an experiment... I was sick auf seeing the rusty brake discs. I cleaned them and used non high temperature rust-oleum paint direktly on the inner and outter part of the disc and on the other side same paint with high temp primer.

I used a brake caliper paint kit made by POR15 on the fronts and spray paint on the rear brakes. It takes a lot of patience and time to use the POR15 kit properly but it does look nice. Eventually I’ll do the rear rotors

 

[mike_sno]

I used a brake caliper paint kit made by POR15 on the fronts and spray paint on the rear brakes. It takes a lot of patience and time to use the POR15 kit properly but it does look nice. Eventually I’ll do the rear rotors

Yeah,I may have to do the same. but wanted to see how the paint I have holds up first. It for sure sticks good to my hands! LOL.

Ugh, just rolled the car out and saw that it's possible to see the inside of the rear brakes discs as well. Will be another round of painting, but will leave it until I see that the paint sticks.

I added washers to the caliper like @Rttoys mentioned and they are now well centered. I have to check the front at some pint if there is the same problem.

I also got me a new (used) butlerbuilt seat. Simillar to @Desert Sasqwatch Jegs seat I guess. Fits way better as my current Kirkey which was to wide for me. I was also able to put the seat in right under the steering wheel. Now I am thinking of putting the kirkey on the passenger side and reduce some weight of the car.

 

[mike_sno]

I am trying to shine some light on my shock and spring configuration.
My Goblin came with the rear coilover set.

Rear: I look at the rear and I believe that's the front part of this kit. The spring says QA1 9HT300.

Front: On the front I have the QA1 damper. Found in another post on the forum that those are the QA1-DS403 . The spring says QA1 9HT400

Now, the front damper adjustment is at the bottom. The QA1 websit says, they can be mounted either way. Is there a reason why they are mounted body down and not up at the Goblin?

Would love to turn them around and probably have an unnoticeable smaller amount of unsprung mass.

 

[Mahkoi]

I am trying to shine some light on my shock and spring configuration.
My Goblin came with the rear coilover set.

Rear: I look at the rear and I believe that's the front part of this kit. The spring says QA1 9HT300.

Front: On the front I have the QA1 damper. Found in another post on the forum that those are the QA1-DS403 . The spring says QA1 9HT400

Now, the front damper adjustment is at the bottom. The QA1 websit says, they can be mounted either way. Is there a reason why they are mounted body down and not up at the Goblin?

Would love to turn them around and probably have an unnoticeable smaller amount of unsprung mass.

I flipped mine as one of my winter projects. Haven't driven it yet after the change but i was going for unnoticeable smaller amount of unsprung weight as well.

 

[Markm]

When I put the wife’s Goblin together I assembled them body up cause a few other others had mentioned about sprung weight. When I was putting it together I almost forgot to swap the springs to 400 front and 300 rear. We currently have the heavy HHR wheels out will eventually get some lighter wheels.

 

[mike_sno]

Flipped