V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

[mike_sno]

Right, I got a few harnesses. Will take some pictures tomorrow and try to identify them. I wonder how many harnesses I need to change, since I have already a LAP engine installed with thinned harness.

 

[jirwin]

All of them. Thats why we were telling you when you were asking about it in another thread that you need a complete cars harness

 

[Ark :D]

The only one you don't need to modify/combine is the engine harness. There's a body harness, a dash harness, and a headlight harness that get combined.

 

[mike_sno]

All of them. Thats why we were telling you when you were asking about it in another thread that you need a complete cars harness

Now that make sense. Lol

 

[Gtstorey]

It can probably be mostly done with what you have but you better have access to the full wiring diagrams and connectors views for both donors. Plus a lot and time and patience.

 

[mike_sno]

Here are pictures of the harnesses I got with the engine. (thinking, ohhhh man... what did I get into here )

Will match the letters later to the function, but if someone already knows what it is just be looking at the pictures:

A= Starter cable connection
B=
C= Power Steering
D=
E= Injection (no modification needed?)
F= Sunroof (not needed at all?)
G=
H=


A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

 

[Rttoys]

A. Yes starter, to under hood fuse box (uhfb) and alternator.

H. The big red connector and the wire it’s attached to is the main battery connection. The battery was in the trunk of the cobalt, so the wire goes to the uhfb The other part of that harness is the interior of the cobalt, going to the BCM.

 

[mike_sno]

Another question, the steering rack for a cobalt SS vs NA. According to the video it the SS Rack has 2.7 turns, that's the one I picked up yesterday. Now I am wondering if I made a mistake. I was hoping that the SS is more direct. Like more travel per turn ( the SS should have a higher pitch so to say. )

But I am not sure if that's really the case or if it's the same pitch and just the stroke is smaller.

Anyone an idea what the difference is?

And any good ideas how to clean this and the engine?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

By pitch, you mean distance the rack travels side to side? The SS rack is a quicker ratio - meaning less steering wheel turn for a given steering input - to get the same rack travel that the non-SS rack provides. SS rack 1/2 turn takes 3/4 turn of the steering wheel for a non-SS to move the rack the same distance.

 

[mike_sno]

With pitch I meant distance the rack travels when making a turn on the steering wheel. I guess ratio is the better word for that. Great, then I will install the SS rack.

 

[mike_sno]

Houston we have a problem! Oh man, it seems like H is the main harness from the DF kit videos.

Now, it seems like this is already thinned or at least started. This is the worse case I was expecting. Anyone an idea how to test if that was thinned correctly?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Test no. Use the wiring schematics to go from connector pin to connector pin yes. You need the schematics to do what you're doing anyway, would advise getting familiar with them to check your harnesses - this will make it easier when it comes to do the thinning.

 

[mike_sno]

Seems like I picked up the wrong harness. In contact with the seller,.

 

[Gtstorey]

Test no. Use the wiring schematics to go from connector pin to connector pin yes. You need the schematics to do what you're doing anyway, would advise getting familiar with them to check your harnesses - this will make it easier when it comes to do the thinning.

Trying to mix two different donor harnesses together will be pretty much impossible task without having and using the wiring diagrams.

 

[Rauq]

By pitch, you mean distance the rack travels side to side? The SS rack is a quicker ratio - meaning less steering wheel turn for a given steering input - to get the same rack travel that the non-SS rack provides. SS rack 1/2 turn takes 3/4 turn of the steering wheel for a non-SS to move the rack the same distance.

That's not true.

To get the 'quicker ratio' (stock Cobalt) the steering arm on the hub upright is shorter, causes more degrees of turning angle per linear input from the steering rack - thus needs less rack travel.

They have the same ratio, the base model rack just has more travel.

I centered two steering racks and measured both of them.

An SS and a base model.





I then moved them to 90 degrees and measured them.





Base @ 0 degrees 1.080"

Base @ 90 degrees 1.550"



SS @ 0 degrees 1.070"

SS @ 90 degrees 1.540"



They both moved .470" from center up to 90 de
grees

 

[mike_sno]

That's not true.

They have the same ratio, the base model rack just has more travel.

Ugh, ok. Well, in that case I stick with my installed steering rack. I was hoping the ratio of the SS was higher, which would make the steering more direct. Oh well... bigger problems currently.

 

[mike_sno]

Can anyone advice where to source the wiring diagram? Found some on autozone and Ross's build log had a forum post linked, but was wondering if there is something better. Google doesn't really find something useful.

 

[Rauq]

Credit to @Sebnuts for this: https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2009/Cobalt L4-2.2L/

 

[ah.b.normal]

Houston we have a problem! Oh man, it seems like H is the main harness from the DF kit videos.

Now, it seems like this is already thinned or at least started. This is the worse case I was expecting. Anyone an idea how to test if that was thinned correctly?

B&D are engine harnesses. It would take closer inspection but from what I can see they are S/C harnesses. 07 and newer had individual coil pack connectors. On S/C cars there were no automatics, so in the engine harness the speed pickup is a purple/yellow pair fairly close to the fuse block(Auto: they hung off the back of the engine sprouting from near the injector harness on top of the motor.) On all engine harnesses there is a "renegade plug" off the engine harness that goes into the body harness near/above the brake booster.(Not that one!, it has only 4 lg wires and goes to the wipers) 05/06 it had only 4 small wires, one tan twisted pair, 1 lt green and one I can't remember, brown? maybe. and the connector could only hold ~7, on the 07/08 that plug had about 11 to13 wires and the capacity of the connector was 14 IIRC.
G is dash harness.
H is Body harness and the +battery cable(that is about 15' long!, a nice chunk of copper wire if'n ya were ta need a nice chunk of copper wire!!)

 

[ah.b.normal]

Houston we have a problem! Oh man, it seems like H is the main harness from the DF kit videos.

Now, it seems like this is already thinned or at least started. This is the worse case I was expecting. Anyone an idea how to test if that was thinned correctly?

IF you think the main harness has been thinned incorrectly I would suggest that you lay it out on your Goblin prescribed wiring table and clean all the tape off and work like you are starting with a untouched one from a S/C car.
Any incorrect circuits cut away can be added back in as they are discovered missing. You'll need to keep a notebook of missing circuits terminations, colors, gauge, to rebuild, but it isn't impossible. I think you will find once you ID the missing circuits everything will more or less fall into place.
I have bundles of Cobalt wiring, I have pulled several sub harnesses to bits in research. If you can assemble a list with lengths, colors and original approx gauges, I'll gladly send you(you pay postage) what I can scrounge out of my piles of scrap. I am betting the main harness you have isn't missing much!