V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

[mike_sno]

Can you confirm if you pull the park lamp fuse that the running rear lights are not working?

 

[mike_sno]

Confirmed, if the Park relay is off a any reasonable load pulls the signal down to ground. If the relay is On, the voltage is stable. Since there is nothing more in between I guess it must be the PCB relay.

 

[mike_sno]

As a work around, made from a fuse and one of the button panel switches a switchable fuse. Instead of pulling the fuse all the time, I flip a switch. This will at least prevent the battery from getting drained (if I remember to switch it off. LOL)

Fuse Boxes from the LAP and LSJ are different. I looked at the fuse box, the PCB board seems to be accessible if enough time and effort is put into it. For the moment I leave it as is.

 

[Ross]

Yes, builders have split the plastic case, and repaired the fuse box circuit board... usually after they jumped the fuel pump the wrong way, and fried the copper on the PCB.

 

[mike_sno]

Well, another desperate thing it tried: I put some cleaning alcohol over the fuse box and in the spots where the relays are sitting. Guess what, the 8V is no reduced to 6.4V. I believe there might be just dirt or whatever on the PCB. I have to take it apart and give it a good clean. Maybe that also explains why I have on the C5 F3/F4 pins voltage feeding backwards to the stop switch,...

 

[mike_sno]

Not driving the Goblin since December 16th is really starting to hurt. Confident that I get the LSJ together this weekend and hope to not find more nightmares.

 

[comegetjoe]

Florida guys... know nothing about waiting until spring to even work on the car let along drive lol patience, Mike
Im sure the taste has made the want that much deeper.

 

[mike_sno]

Florida guys... know nothing about waiting until spring...

I'm sorry

 

[Sebnuts]

know nothing about waiting until spring to even work on the car let along drive lol

Right, it's going to be single digits here this weekend. My shop is not insulated, so that means I won't be making any progress

 

[Ark :D]

Florida guys... know nothing about waiting until spring to even work on the car let along drive lol patience, Mike
Im sure the taste has made the want that much deeper.

Tomorrow should be pretty mild, for January at least. I may throw my new headlights on tomorrow.

 

[mike_sno]

Question regarding tightening the head screws. I did it in the sequence as it is described here. https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2007/Cob...Service and Repair/Cylinder Head Replacement/
Now I am done with getting all screws to 30nm. Once I was done with all 10 I checked screw one again. I have a digital and calibrated torque wrench and can see that if I am over 21nm, the screw would start turn again. Should I do another sequence or just do the additional 155degree?

 

[Gtstorey]

Linked procedure doesn’t say anything about tightening all to torque value and then second pass. The way it is written you should tighten each bolt to torque plus angle. I’m not commenting on whether the linked procedure is correct, just on what it says.
I can see what my late model service manual says in a couple of hours.

 

[Gtstorey]

You are using new bolts (not screws)?

 

[mike_sno]

Yes, new bolts. If you could look what you're document says that would be great. I'm in no rush.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Lube on the bolts to install? If not you could be encountering some FOD in the bolt holes that is peaking your torque reading - this is run-in torque. If you haven't 'stretched' the bolts yet you could back them out 1/2 turn and retorqued to the 30 Nm. Then recheck again. This is one method to verify your first step in a torque sequence.

 

[mike_sno]

They came in a sealed bag and had some oil on them. I guess mainly to protect them from corrosion. No extra lub. Don't think they are stretched with 30Nm. The manual I linked above didn't say anything about extra lub. Let's see what @Gtstorey manual says. Have to buy a torque gauge anyway.

 

[Gtstorey]

Service manual does specify 2 passes for all engines. First pass 30Nm. Second 155 degrees. I would probably do that with a torque wrench and see what the difference in torque is to get to the 155. If much difference, I might torque the looser ones a little more. Maybe.

 

[mike_sno]

Took the screws out again, cleaned them, put just a little lubrication on them to not being dry and did the same 30Nm torque sequence again. Checked the first bolt again with the same result, above around 21Nm the bolt would turn. I leave that as is. Since the same result happened twice and the manual does not say anything else, I will just put the additional 155degree and move on. Maybe I should have not tested it in the first place

 

[mike_sno]

I stuck an oil drain plug in where the 2.2L have the coolant sensor.

The LSJ Sensor sits at the very top of the engine right next to the coolant connector to the front radiator. How can this location measure the temperature if the Thermostat is closed??

 

[Ross]

That is where the hottest coolant leaves the head, and the engine will heat the coolant, even if the thermostat is closed.