V1 Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

[TheNuker]

Hrm, okay. When we did jump the engine I did notice the idle was rough up and down. Maybe the CAN wire bus is screwed up. Ugh.

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Hrm, okay. When we did jump the engine I did notice the idle was rough up and down. Maybe the CAN wire bus is screwed up. Ugh.

Nuker-

I would thoroughly check that before rewiring the starter. Rough idle could be due to air in the fuel lines if it's the first time it was started though.

I have a post on checking continuity of canbus wires at the main plug, hopefully yours is the same or at least similar enough.

 

[DanPerryy]

I think if the CAN wires are not connected when you press the throttle pedal the throttle butterfly will not open. If CAN is connected the butterfly will open.

 

[JSATX]

I think if the CAN wires are not connected when you press the throttle pedal the throttle butterfly will not open. If CAN is connected the butterfly will open.

That was not my experience. Everything worked except the starter and fuel level gauge.

However - my car would not run when the starter was jumped. So it sounds like his computers may be talking.

 

[TheNuker]

Okay, I seen your guide. I'm going to test continuity between the front and back tonight on the CAN BUS. My fuel level is working as is my throttle butterfly.

Maybe related to the first engine start. When it was running very rough up and down RPM. The second I touched the gas petal it would die. But total run time was only like 5-10 seconds max.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your help.

And Lonny/Adam. Thank you so much for your time on the phone on Sunday giving me ideas to try.

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Okay, I seen your guide. I'm going to test continuity between the front and back tonight on the CAN BUS. My fuel level is working as is my throttle butterfly.

Maybe related to the first engine start. When it was running very rough up and down RPM. The second I touched the gas petal it would die. But total run time was only like 5-10 seconds max.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your help.

And Lonny/Adam. Thank you so much for your time on the phone on Sunday giving me ideas to try.

Nuker-

make sure you bleed any air out of the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Press the pin in the valve and cycle the key on / off a few times.

Don't let gas spray on anything you painted....

Also make sure you don't have any open vacuum ports on the intake.

 

[TheNuker]

Well, I tested the continuity between the data wires on the OBD2 and the rear engine ECU plug and they are good. Both had a solid tone. So I guess that is a good sign?

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Thats a start. More importantly you need continuity between the BCM and ECU.

But the more I think about it I'm not sure thats your problem. My starter relay would not click, and I was not getting spark. The computer clearly was not allowing the engine to run. Yours sounds more like something is still not physically hooked up quite right, but thats just a guess. Every time I've been stumped so far it was a ground issue...

 

[TheNuker]

Yeah, we ran a cable to every ground back to battery to test that. Lonny thought it could be the clutch not reading correctly. But I'm not sure.

Can anyone with an SS/SC confirm the color of wires that go into the clutch and brake sensors on the pedals?

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Okay I have found the problem.

I noticed when sticking my hand in the wiring in the back and wiggling that the dash lights would go on and off. I narrowed it down to the middle black plug on the ECU. I had my brother hold the plug very tight and the car turned over with the key and revved up without dying instantly. Holy **** that was loud.

So now I have to find a solution to why that plug is not maintaining good contact.

What a relief. An I'm open to suggestions.

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Awesome! Figuring it out is 90% of the battle.

Lonny did mention to me a while ago they had trouble with one of their ecu plugs. I don't remember the solution hopefully he'll chime in.

If it were me I'd just spray it down with contact cleaner and try it again.

 

[TheNuker]

Yeah, I have sprayed it down good, But it just won't maintain a good connection. Once it flakes out the engine dies. When I hold the connector tight it runs rough still rpm up and down to almost dying then it will finally die.

Nuker-

 

[Lonny]

If you could determine which pin or pins have a problem you could remove that terminal end from the plug and rework it to fit tighter on its pin.
If you decide to start removing terminals from your plug you should get very good images. I would imagine if you put a wire in the wrong place it would burn up your ECM or other components.

 

[TheNuker]

I noticed something interesting also. When the dash lights are off, I can pull a fuse from the rear box and put it back in and the relays will click on and dash lights come back on. I tested it with several different fuses. I'm going to try to hold the second PCM connector tight while pulling a fuse to see if that is just wiggling and making me think the fuse pull/install is resetting power.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

This is the longest it has ran.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70aLtzjTRE4RkZHdEJvUTRsZjg/view?usp=sharing

Most of the time it is 2-5 seconds of up and down then dies.

Nuker-

 

[Lonny]

If you plug in the maf without the tube installed on the intake it will run bad or not at all. You need to either unplug the maf or hook up the intake tube.

 

[TheNuker]

I'll do that tonight and cross my fingers!

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Holy ****, It works!!

It's alive! I don't seem to feel coolant on the passenger side hose flowing yet. I think it might need to run longer and it did take about 1/5th more gallon of coolant in the tank. So tomorrow i'll start it up again and keep adding fluid.

Nuker-

 

[AleX1/9]

CONGRATS NUKER!!!

I think you might have the first running LSJ goblin?

 

[JSATX]

Great job!

You won't really feel coolent flowing at first. It'll take several minutes for it to get warm.