V1 Rauq's Twincharged LSJ - #240 - GOBZILA

[G Atsma]

That's mainly stone/debris protection. In rain, it WILL get wet. Rain falls down, not across.

 

[Rttoys]

I would think it’ll get wet, but not soaked, *if* at highway speeds. You stop and it’s game on.

 

[Rauq]

That's mainly stone/debris protection. In rain, it WILL get wet. Rain falls down, not across.

Do you have personal experience with this? That doesn't explain how stuff in my truck bed can stay bone dry through a heavy rain until I stop at the end of the ramp of the highway.

I would think it’ll get wet, but not soaked, *if* at highway speeds. You stop and it’s game on.

That's about what I'd guess. I wouldn't expect to get a ton of personal anecdotes, though, as I figure the subset of folks with such a trailer and who have driven it through rain to be pretty low.

 

[Scott #321]

I won't pretend to be able to answer this as it may help a lot or could cause some unintended air circulation that causes water to wrap into the passenger compartment in a way that makes the bcm more likely for water damage. Tow vehicle selection would make significant changes to how water and air circulate around a towed vehicle with or without shielding.. Personally I would go this route over an open trailer or flat towing for debris protection if a enclosed trailer is out of the question. No one can give a good answer to this without proper testing which would result in electronic damage from various towing operations in the rain.

 

[Rauq]

The teardown begins...

Looks like the outer brake pad on both sides of the rear is sitting a little less than flat. I have the Solstice parking brake setup. Could the spring that sits on the outside of the caliper influence this? They weren't sitting quite the same on the left and right sides of the car, although the pads wore about the same.

 

[Rttoys]

Do you have any brake proportioning, dual masters or other than stock brake setup?

 

[Gtstorey]

Mine does the same thing. I do have a vacuum regulator.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Looks like the outer brake pad on both sides of the rear is sitting a little less than flat. I have the Solstice parking brake setup. Could the spring that sits on the outside of the caliper influence this? They weren't sitting quite the same on the left and right sides of the car, although the pads wore about the same.

I too have this issue, but only on the drivers side that I recall... Up until very recently I was on completely stock brakes running w/o the vacuum assist to the booster.

 

[Rauq]

Completely normal brake setup. Not too worried about it, it's barely visually not-flat.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Completely normal brake setup. Not too worried about it, it's barely visually not-flat.

You're likely loosing like 1/3 of your braking power in the rear though... as am I at this point.

 

[Rauq]

Brake bias and vacuum regulator are on my list of things to do after I get the car back together, then I might worry about it a little bit more. Currently working on an F23 swap and the new DF shifter among a few other smaller things.

 

[Rttoys]

It’s happening because there is almost no pressure back there. Look at the rotors. They have never been hot or burned in. Here’s what mine look like, with brake proportioning.

 

[KSLunsfo]

It’s happening because there is almost no pressure back there. Look at the rotors. They have never been hot or burned in. Here’s what mine look like, with brake proportioning.

That could simply be it. Perhaps I'll know more when the weather improves a bit. I now have the wilwood manual master setup with a proportioning valve in the front line to dial them back. I just have not made any adjustments with it yet.

 

[Bajakid1450]

1/8 mile pass, 7.8 @ 88, 1.8 60'

They shut me down after one pass, said I needed arm restraints and a full cage and that they wanted to see how fast I'd go before decided if they needed to kick me. I was actually wearing arm restraints which I think opened the door to them being ok talking about it. I talked to the track owner and he asked me to send him some pictures and info on the car to send up to his sanctioning body (honestly not sure if that's NHRA, IHRA, or some other group) and let them decide if we're kosher. From my reading of NHRA I should be good with arm restraints, but my interpretation isn't the one that matters. I get it, I'm cool with it.

Was this at the Greer drag strip?
I was planning on taking mine there to test it out after my new engine gets done and my new trans from dfkitcar comes in.

 

[Rauq]

Yeah that was Greer. Once I get my car back together I'm going to take those pictures to send to the track manager to see if I can get kosher without the full cage. I'll fill you in.

 

[Bajakid1450]

Yeah that was Greer. Once I get my car back together I'm going to take those pictures to send to the track manager to see if I can get kosher without the full cage. I'll fill you in.

Awesome I appreciate it

 

[Rauq]

Working on my F23 swap, the shifter cable bracket mount boss is colliding with the thermostat housing. I believe this is an LSJ specific issue. I've read in a few places that grinding can take care of this, but I'm not sure that enough grinding to clear is going to leave me with a solid mount for the cable mount. Has anyone come across pictures or documentation affirming that enough clearance can be created without compromising the cable bracket?

Alternatively, I could swap the thermostat housing to any other Ecotec thermostat housing. An LNF would require re-plumbing the coolant lines to the oil cooler, whereas I believe any L61, LAP, or LE5 thermostat housing will not have provisions for an oil cooler. Is that correct? I'm not sure if running the heater core lines to the oil cooler is advisable. If running an NA thermostat housing, I could swap out the OEM oil cooler with an external. My only reservation is that's putting more distance to getting the car back together. Eh, I could deal with it.

 

[Rauq]

Base model thermostat housing installed, F23 installed. Still have a little work to do to get the oil cooler plumbed back up, but I have LNF-esque tees for the radiator return line and the line from the neck to the overflow tank.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The rightmost heater core tube in the photo is really close to the header tube, any plan to remove the heater core tubes and tap the t-stat housing for plugs or alternate fittings?
The LNF t-stat housing looks similar and putting a looped hose on those tubes is something that I'm looking to get rid of when I get to that point (someday).

 

[Rauq]

I'm pretty sure the only difference between a base model NA thermostat housing and the LNF is this boss is tapped for the coolant line that goes to the turbo. I never had issues with coolant temps with the looped line on the stock LSJ thermostat housing so I doubt I'll bother here. I'm sure the coolant isn't picking up radiant heat from the header, and the aesthetics don't bother me much. If picking up heat from the exhaust were an issue, the crossover pipe would be a bigger contributor by far.

As far as I understand the heater core connections can't be plugged.