V1 Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Torchandregdoc]

I have a Saab 9-3 intake manifold that may work for you. It doesn't fit the LNF head very well, but it may fit yours. The shape of the lnf intake port is more ovel. I think yours are squarish. The throttle bodies will bolt right up I think.

 

[Goblin Graber]

Took me 2 years, but eventually I will get the space back in my shop. Ian and I took turns on the sky hook job.
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Is this two cars, or one?
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Please tell me you hauled your donor shell away with the Goblin?!?

 

[Ross]

I did haul my donor shell with my goblin.
If a Cobalt can tow a trailer with a Goblin kit on it,
a Goblin can tow a trailer with it's own Cobalt shell, right?

Once I got it hauled out of my shop, I hooked it to my van, and towed it to the scrap yard.
It was probably too much trailer weight to be safe on the roads with the Goblin.
Plus the scrap yard was very muddy. It was fun watching that huge crane throw the shell 200 feet to the top of the scrap pile.

 

[Ross]

I have a Saab 9-3 intake manifold that may work for you. It doesn't fit the LNF head very well, but it may fit yours. The shape of the lnf intake port is more ovel. I think yours are squarish. The throttle bodies will bolt right up I think.

Thank you for the offer. I am planning on using the LSJ intake, but for now I am gathering all the pieces to give me a visual of how it all will fit.

 

[Ross]

Anybody have turbo intake parts they want to part with?
I am collecting turbo parts for my LSJ, and need a A2W intercooler, radiator, intake charge aluminum pipes, silicon pipes and clamps.
Let me know if you have parts you're willing to sell me. 479-640-9941
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Bump. With all the kits that have gone to air to air intercoolers, I thought someone would want to sell me their left over A2W parts.

 

[Ross]

The stock Saab 9-3 turbo arrived, still waiting for the exhaust manifold. Now I have to figure out the vacuum line for the wastegate, and the electricity for the vacuum valve. The arrow is into the intake... maybe that was emission stuff, and went to the valve cover?
Those red caps near my fingers are oil lines.

Is this thing a blow off valve? It has a vacuum line nipple on the right. Need to find out where that goes too.

 

[ccannx]

I believe the 2nd picture goes to the intake manifold. The first pic circle looks like an electronic boost controller that actuates the wastegate. I have the valve cover connected to the turbo intake side and the wastegate is controlled by a manual boost controller fed from a nipple on the turbine housing charge side that feeds through the MBC to the wastegate actuator.

 

[ccannx]

This is the zzp lsj intake adaptor I'm using. Red is where my built in (BOV) is connected and yellow is the brake booster connection.

 

[Ross]

This is the zzp lsj intake adaptor I'm using. Red is where my built in (BOV) is connected and yellow is the brake booster connection.

So that cover goes on top of the LSJ intercooler, where the supercharger use to go?

I believe the 2nd picture goes to the intake manifold.

Well, port 1 goes to the intercooler & then the intake manifold. #2 I think is the wastegate, is the blow off valve. as it has a built in side port to #3. #3 is the intake to the turbo, so an air filter goes here. Maybe the MAF sensor too, depending on if I want that before the turbo or after.

The first pic circle looks like an electronic boost controller that actuates the wastegate. I agree.
I have the valve cover connected to the turbo intake side I agree. The red plug at the top of this picture could go to the valve cover.
and the wastegate is controlled by a manual boost controller fed from a nipple on the turbin housing charge side that feeds through the MBC to the wastegate actuator.

I need to read up on manual boost controllers. Does this allow you to easily change your boost levels?

 

[ccannx]

Yes that plate is to adapt the throttle body to the lsj intercooler. The wastegate is on the exhaust side and is opened and closed by boost pressure, there should be a long spring actuated rod going over to the exhaust side. If i understand it correctly the manual boost controller is a simple spring that is overcome by the boost pressure from the charge housing on one side then bleeds through to the wastegate side as it overcomes the spring in the MBC. The wastegate bypasses exhaust past the turbine to drop boost.

Yes 1 is charge pipe or supply to intake manifold 2 is bov ? And 3 is the intake/turbo inlet. Maf is about 30 inches before turbo inlet on the turbo kit.

 

[Ross]

Thanks Chris. Lots of good info there.

 

[Fozda]

Is that a water cooled turbo?

 

[Ross]

Is that a water cooled turbo?

I wish. I don't think so, but I will have to check the specs on a stock saab 9-3 2.0L turbo.

 

[Ross]

Nate, I think you are on to something here... it does look to be water cooled.
The top is port 1, oil in?
The side has port 2 & 3, water?
The bottom has port 4, oil out? It is bigger than the other ports.

 

[ccannx]

I think 3 is your water in and 2 is water out. I read somewhere that borg Warner suggests water in on the bottom and water out on the top opposite side for better cross flow. 4 looks like oil drain that goes to the pan.

 

[Ross]

What is the secret to removing pins from the BCM connector C2?
I think I have isolated down my intermittent dash issue, as every time I test it, it starts working. So the removal and replacement of the connectors seems to temporarily fix the issue.
It is a Aptiv (Delphi) 72-way F micro 64 connector. Female connector drafting here.

 

[Goblin Graber]

If I remember right those red and green plastic pieces are locking tabs that have to slide out of the end of the connector first.

 

[Lonny]

The gray cap can be pried off after you remove the green retainer and then you can see the retaining locks.
The green retainer keeps the gray cap froom coming off.

 

[Ross]

I removed the green and red sides, but I think all I needed to do was remove the long green double pin that was in the middle.

Then I put 4 removal tool pins in the side holes (2 blue circles above, and 2 on the other side).
This allowed the grey plastic to slide out.

Now all the pins are easily removed.

Here are the 4 pins I was wanting to inspect. They seem fine, but need a precision pin to test contact pressure.

To assemble it, I backed up all the pins, before putting the gray plastic on. (down 2 pics) Try not to break the retainers like I did in the bottom row.
Then push all the pins back until they click in place.

Here are the retaining points on these parts:

 

[Ross]

Today was dry enough, I took the Goblin for a drive, to test the intermittent dash issue. The dash didn't work for the last 3 or 4 drives, but it worked today! I think just taking apart the electrical connector did it.

So I am going to blow out the connectors with compressed air, wash them in brake cleaner, and put dielectric grease on them.
Maybe that will keep the dust from my driveway from getting in between the connector contacts.

Update:
Dielectric grease is non conductive grease and should never be used on the metal part of the connectors.
Update my last update:
Yes, dielectric grease is non conductive, but you can go ahead and use it. Electricity will travel thru the metal to metal contact.
The dielectric grease can keep water out, but it does attract dirt... so it is a trade off.
I used compressed air to clean the connectors, then used dielectric grease on them. When the grease gets dirty, I guess I will wash it with contact cleaner/electric cleaner... the compressed can of liquid that evaporates into the air.