V1 Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ahh! Fabrication!!!

 

[Rauq]

I drilled and tapped a M4 hole thru the aluminum bushing, into the steel 20mm plug I made.
The little M4 bolt will keep the plug from moving. Needs some red loctite, as I wouldn't want to loose my oil pressure.
View attachment 51108

Is that essentially what OTTP's front balance shaft delete bushings do? You're running an EWP, right? Are you deleting the water pump chain? Do you have a provision to block the oil feed to the short chain tensioner? Or... do I misunderstand the situation? Which is completely possible!

 

[Ross]

Is that essentially what OTTP's front balance shaft delete bushings do?

Yes.

You're running an EWP, right? Are you deleting the water pump chain?

Yes, and yes I am deleting the chain. There is a pretty long discussion around removing the thermostat, and placing the EWP.

Do you have a provision to block the oil feed to the short chain tensioner? Or... do I misunderstand the situation? Which is completely possible!

It is on my list, but I haven't started that yet. You got the picture... including my future mods!

 

[Rauq]

Yes.
Yes, and yes I am deleting the chain. There is a pretty long discussion around removing the thermostat, and placing the EWP.

I've been following!

It is on my list, but I haven't started that yet. You got the picture... including my future mods!

I thought I was doing a good job of being patient in waiting to ask my questions until your most recent photo update, I wanted to ask them after the previous update but I waited as long as I could!

 

[Ross]

Is that essentially what OTTP's front balance shaft delete bushings do?

Yes.
Kind of... Those OTTP parts look like the cut off end of the balance shafts, so they would still need the sprocket and bolt to be installed. My method held that part in place with a M4 bolt, and some red loctite. Guess you could install it either way, if you have a drill and a tap.

Are those OTTP parts bigger than 20mm?
They might be the size of part #4 here. I'm not sure...

 

[Rauq]

Yes.
Kind of... Those OTTP parts look like the cut off end of the balance shafts, so they would still need the sprocket and bolt to be installed. My method held that part in place with a M4 bolt, and some red loctite. Guess you could install it either way, if you have a drill and a tap.

Are those OTTP parts bigger than 20mm?
They might be the size of part #4 here. I'm not sure...

My take was, because it says they're meant for removing the factory water pump chain or running [a] short chain, they don't use the chain sprockets. If their grooved plug goes in the exhaust side, it'll still supply oil to the factory water pump chain tensioner for use with a short chain, or the solid plug in the exhaust side cuts oil flow to the tensioner. I think it gets confusing when folks call the factory water pump/balance chain the "short chain" when it's really the shorter chain, and the actual short chain is a water pump-only chain that doesn't run to balance chain sprockets.

Like OTTP's rear balance shaft delete plugs, I think the threaded holes are just for removal purposes or as an install aid. I don't think the threaded holes in the front plugs are for bolts to hold on the sprockets.

Anyway, I'm staying tuned for the water pump chain tensioner oil blockoff!

 

[Ross]

The old chain tensioner for the water pump & balance shafts is floating up in the orange square.
The orange arrow points to its normal location, where I tapped a M6x1.00 into the oil hole for that tensioner. Effectively blocking the hole with a M6 bolt.

The OTTP Balance Shaft Delete Front Plugs must be 42mm big, in order to block oil feed to the balance shaft chain tensioner.
The exhaust side balance shaft (orange E) has 2 oil holes (green lines), while the intake side (orange I) only has 1.

 

[mike_sno]

The old chain tensioner for the water pump & balance shafts is floating up in the orange square.
The orange arrow points to its normal location, where I tapped a M6x1.00 into the oil hole for that tensioner. Effectively blocking the hole with a M6 bolt.
View attachment 51136

The OTTP Balance Shaft Delete Front Plugs must be 42mm big, in order to block oil feed to the balance shaft chain tensioner.
The exhaust side balance shaft (orange E) has 2 oil holes (green lines), while the intake side (orange I) only has 1.

Quick question, if I just remove the water pump chain. Leave the balance shafts and water pump installed. Do I have to worry about the oil pressure due to the balance shafts not spinning or the chain tensioner having no chain to press against?

 

[Ross]

I'm not sure if the chain tensioner stays together under oil pressure. The stationary balance shafts should be good to hold oil pressure. The water pump should seal the oil and coolant... assume you will run the EWP and remove the thermostat to allow it to run longer than 5 minutes.

 

[Markm]

Quick question, if I just remove the water pump chain. Leave the balance shafts and water pump installed. Do I have to worry about the oil pressure due to the balance shafts not spinning or the chain tensioner having no chain to press against?

if you’re not running the balance shaft chain you’ll need to make a block off plate for the tensioner cause it’ll be a leak if left off. I have seen a balance shaft tensioner come apart but I wouldn’t trust it without the chain or tensioner shoe to push on.

 

[mike_sno]

Ross, did you made any headway on the electric fuel pump? I don't have time at the moment to do anything at the goblin.

 

[Ross]

You mean the electric coolant pump? Those modifications have been done, to the performance engine, which has it's block on the engine stand.
This engine is on year 3... maybe year 4 it might be done??? I am enjoying driving my goblin with the stock LSJ engine, for now.

Back in February, I started the manifold flanges, 2 of the 3 of them have been on the lathe, to cut the 3" hole out.

I took @Markm advice, and have found a local machine shop, that I need to bring my LSJ head to, and get the valves guides & seats done. check if it is flat, etc.

I also have been working on the DIY wood CNC.
Yesterday, I broke my goblin's shifter linkage, so today I fabricated a new, stronger shift linkage arm.
Need to paint and install that, then put the tunnel cap back on, shifter in, and seats in.
Just keep swimming, just keep swimming.

 

[Ross]

Today I found 2 leaks in my gas tank system, by using my smoke machine.
One was a hose clamp that needed tightening, and the other was the rubber O ring on the pump hat.
I noticed that the tank had 2 layers of 1/8" aluminum supporting the 5 bolts for the pump, but the top of the hat only has 1 layer. So I decided to make a new thicker steel ring for the top of my fuel pump. That allowed the 5 bolts to hold more pressure against the O ring, and sealed the pump. Now it passed the smoke test.

I am going to try hinges on my hood at the front of the car, as the Dzus fasteners have worn out.
Replaced a headlight, as the lens was yellowing... and now it matches the other side which was replaced a year ago.

 

[comegetjoe]

Today I found 2 leaks in my gas tank system, by using my smoke machine.
One was a hose clamp that needed tightening, and the other was the rubber O ring on the pump hat.
I noticed that the tank had 2 layers of 1/8" aluminum supporting the 5 bolts for the pump, but the top of the hat only has 1 layer. So I decided to make a new thicker steel ring for the top of my fuel pump. That allowed the 5 bolts to hold more pressure against the O ring, and sealed the pump. Now it passed the smoke test.
View attachment 52606 View attachment 52607

I am going to try hinges on my hood at the front of the car, as the Dzus fasteners have worn out.
Replaced a headlight, as the lens was yellowing... and now it matches the other side which was replaced a year ago.

Im just getting to to the hood planning stages. But I had thought that it did flip forward.

 

[Ross]

Anybody know if they make a 6AN connector adapter for these plastic fuel pump connectors?
Or how should I connect AN lines? Buy a new fuel pump? At what point does the stock pump no longer keep up with a performance engine?

These connectors are for the steel fuel lines at the fuel injector rail, and are too small for the fuel pump.

I am trying to replace the stock fuel regulator (right side of tire) with an adjustable fuel regulator, filter, AN connectors and PTFE lines.

 

[jirwin]

When I put ZZPs AEM fuel pump in my car (and the boost reference fuel pressure regulator) I just used some sort of AN barbed fitting and shoved it into the nylon lines cut short. Still running that today (pretty sure it has a hose clamp now though lol). It feels kinda jank, but works fine. Also used a neat little sealable bulkhead connector to run larger power wires.

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[Ross]

The hex key at the top of the fuel regulator is not adjusting the fuel pressure.
The pressure stays at 90 PSI, which is a lot, and I would like to dial it back to the stock 62 PSI.

Did I plumb the fuel regulator correctly?
Is it defective?
I tried plugging the boost reference port, didn't fix it.
I opened the boost reference port, didn't fix it.

The stock fuel pump used 5/16" nylon fuel lines, which is what jirwin used for the first few inches after the pump.
Can I stretch my PTFE lines over the stock pump fittings? Yes!
But I did have to loosen the steel braid, and use some assembly lube to help it slide over.
The return line on the right looks better, but it was a lot of work to loosen the braid, like a Chinese finger toy.
The supply line I just undid the braid for the first inch. Much easier.

 

[Rttoys]

Was the engine running when you were adjusting pressure? It has to bleed off pressure to come down but can’t do it if the injectors are closed and pump is running. Or bleed off pressure, then adjust regulator way low and start coming up with it. It only has an inlet and an out let. I doubt you did it wrong, so you could have a bad regulator, or tap on it in case something is stuck inside.

 

[Ross]

Thanks Russ and Dale... you helped me track down the issue.
I took apart the fuel pump hat

The fuel return line has a check valve with a spring, ball, and seat.
I moved the ball over, to hold the spring wide open, and now the new fuel regulator can easily flow fuel back to the tank, and this allows it to regulate pressure correctly.

I am tempted to change the fuel pump wires with some bigger ones, as I hear this can be a limiting factor for the pump.

 

[jirwin]

That's what I used my grommet thing for - bigger wires. The ZZP instructions for the boost reference fuel pressure regulator you remove that ball and spring entirely.

Check instructions linked on this page:

ZZP Ecotec Boost Reference Fuel Pressure System

Allow fuel pressure adjustment above the PCM's ability with this ZZPerformance Boost Reference Fuel Pressure System (BRFPS). It installs easily into your Cobalt or Redline and lowers fuel pressure at idle to sure large injector issues.

zzperformance.com

I made a post about my fuel pump for my E85 conversion here: http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/joshs-city-goblin-10-xfe-donor.1121/post-93695