V1 Rttoys’s track- ‘06 ss/sc #184

[Rttoys]

So, I finally installed the brake reservoir and bleed the brake and clutch. I used my vacuum bleeder, which did very well. I basically did it all myself, but had my lovely assistant press the pedals, while I did a final bleed at the end, to ensure all was bleed through. I had a couple minor leaks, that was cured by by tightening some connections. Forgot how easy it was to bleed brakes, when abs is not involved.

Even though I have to take the rear wheels off to run the parking brakes, I still had to put the wheels/tires on to see how she’s gonna look.

 

[Rttoys]

Disregard the tabs coming off the end, they are backwards and should go up, not down, but I wanted to show how the steering column goes together.

Screw n the mounting screws from the side the press in the column bearing (don‘t forget the snap ring).

 

[Rttoys]

Once mounted, you can make adjustments and get everything in place. Then it’s off to the races to mount the quick disconnect and wheel.

there’s less and less boxes and parts to install.

 

[JBINTX]

Once mounted, you can make adjustments and get everything in place. Then it’s off to the races to mount the quick disconnect and wheel.

there’s less and less boxes and parts to install.

nice clearance on the blinker reset ring. Won't have any phantom snags when turning the wheel......

 

[Rttoys]

nice clearance on the blinker reset ring. Won't have any phantom snags when turning the wheel......

Haha. I remembered when you were talking about that, so I made sure to pay attention.

 

[Rttoys]

Note:
In this pic, the steering rack is centered as well as the front wheels (close without an alignment yet). At the end of the steering shaft, there is a notch. That notch goes in the 12 o’clock position. There are grooves in the splines that’s align up everything else to the steering wheel.

 

[Rttoys]

So, in some spare time I decided to make a different exhaust. There’s nothing wrong with the one provided by DF, I just wanted to be different. I had some things in my head, but my imagination outweighed my talent. After looking at a ton of exhaust options to cut and weld, I grabbed a can (motorcycle muffler) I had stashed for 20 years now and kind of liked what I was imagining. It’s a can off a 2000 Kawasaki ZX600r, my buddy owned in 2000 and we replaced the can with an aftermarket. It’s been stashed up in my attic for 20 years now and finally have a purpose.

coincidentally, I had a pipe at work I replaced on one of my trucks that had the same bolt pattern as the cobalt flange. The 2 will become 1 because I need to make an adaptor from one to the other.

 

[Rttoys]

So, I cut some flat plate to make a flange to mate to the can and cut the truck pipe to finish the adaptor. Once I drilled holes and massaged the corners (it looks better than the pic) to look decent, I welded the 2 to make the adaptor.

 

[Rttoys]

Then I cut the can to shorten it, but first I removed the end pipe. the end pipe can later be riveted back on once I’m done. I added the adaptor and it looks roughly finished.

 

[Rttoys]

I put it on and it didn‘t look too bad. I can work with this. So I took it off, took it apart and painted it, plus had to make a gasket. Once I painted it, and put it back together, the finished product looks better than I thought it would.

 

[Rttoys]

On to the good stuff.

Got the shifter setup. I decided to skew from the directions and setup the shifter (and park brake) on the bench. Bending over the frame to do this was not really on my priority list.
I set up the shifter where everything needed to be, so I just needed to add the cables on the goblin and go from there. One of the bell cranks gave me hell and I couldn’t figure it out. It wouldn’t thread onto any cable or rods. I figured out it was a left hand thread vs the correct right hand thread. After punching a local puppy I found (not really, just a saying) I called Jason to ask if I was missing something. He said no, they were all the same. After our conversation, he said to switch one of the rods and make it work, so I did. I switched the rod and used a doner nut to make things work right. It’s not right but it works. I loc tite every and put the tunnel on the goblin.

 

[Rttoys]

On the plus side, I have all 5 gears and reverse. 5th is hard to hit, but it does work.

 

[Rttoys]

On to the seats.

I bought NRG race seats, sliders and mounts for a cobalt. My theory was, the stock seats will fit, so race seats for the same vehicle should work too. Well, about 90% right on that one. The seats work fine, the sliders work and the mount works perfect drop in, BUT there’s some play in the front mounting area. Not a biggie, I’m going to add a spacer and bolt the front down tomorrow.

The seat mounts have do have a seat belt mount on the inner side in case you don’t want to mount your seatbelt to the tower.

 

[Rttoys]

Hopefully tomorrow I can finish the park brake, back wall, seat and if I’m lucky, an alignment.

 

[Karter2026]

On to the seats.

I bought NRG race seats, sliders and mounts for a cobalt. My theory was, the stock seats will fit, so race seats for the same vehicle should work too. Well, about 90% right on that one. The seats work fine, the sliders work and the mount works perfect drop in, BUT there’s some play in the front mounting area. Not a biggie, I’m going to add a spacer and bolt the front down tomorrow.

Those look like the same seats that I have. I like mine they are comfortable.

 

[Rttoys]

Those look like the same seats that I have. I like mine they are comfortable.

I’ll know better once I get miles on them, but in the car and living room, they are comfy. I like that they recline and the base has a seat belt bracket on the inside, if you don’t want to use the tunnel as the mounting point. At the price point, for reclining seats, sliders and mounts, it’s a pretty solid deal. Not to mention, the seats are not so wide that they will hit each other or anything else.

if anyone is interested, I got them on www.carid.com but be carful on that website, it’s pretty dangerous to the wallet.

 

[Rttoys]

The spacer trick worked on the seats. I’ll take a pic tomorrow.

The park brake is fairly self explanatory on the routing, but wanted to share that I modified the cable brackets to work on the goblin. It’s not real hard, just put the bracket in a vice and almost make them straight. Then bolt them to the strut using a doner nut and bolt. I zip tied the rest of the cable to the frame.

 

[Rttoys]

So now the back wall goes in, but with the park brake kind of in the way, it had to be trimmed a little for the shift cables to fit.

also a pic of the holes I drilled to mount the front of seat bracket.

 

[Rttoys]

And the best part is she’s on the ground and time for a test drive.

 

[Rttoys]

Then it was time to eat brisket I started sometime before the sun came up this morning.