V1 Rttoys’s track- ‘06 ss/sc #184

[DCMoney]

no way!!!!!!! You could have pulled BOTH hoses at the same time with that!!!!

Haha, yeah probably, I was really surprised how easy it went after reading horror stories on here, but I didnt try pulling them by hand...

 

[Ross]

...
We used the winch on my 4 wheeler on the second pull, but couldn’t get the frame to stay still, so the winch could do its job. The come a long, actually worked perfect. Almost no stress on anything.

I used an electric winch on my 4 wheeler and to get the frame to stay still, I used a strap to the far shop wall. But a come-a-long would work too.

 

[Rttoys]

i was half a second from strapping it to the tractor and hitting the winch button, then I found my come a long. It all boiled down to stabilizing the frame, but them I used the frame itself to do the work.

 

[JeffsGoblin]

Winch, come-a-long, tractor, boat crank is about the only easy ways to do it...

Jeff's Extended Track - 07 SS/SC Donor - Chassis #91

are you talking about the $300 one? Yes, the one from GMPP.

dfkitcar.com

 

[Rttoys]

Day 437 of the wiring harness. Making progress. Figuring out the method to their madness and combining it to the method of my madness and seeing some daylight at the end of the tunnel. If it doesn’t work, it’ll at least it’ll look like it should

 

[JBINTX]

437????? Maybe in dog days.........

 

[Rttoys]

Nailed it

 

[JBINTX]

YOU da Mannnnnnnn!

 

[Rttoys]

Getting better. Instead of electrical tape all the way down, I use some loom I have had laying around.

 

[JSATX]

Glad you made the jump in! Welcome to the Texas Goblin club.

 

[Rttoys]

Glad you made the jump in! Welcome to the Texas Goblin club.

thanks. I’m ready to have some fun on the track with it. I love being on the track with my bikes, now it’s time to try out cars a little.

 

[Rttoys]

Ok. Going to try and update a bit. Interwebby where I live is horrible as well as cell signal, so loading pictures takes a while, but let’s try.

So I got the master cyl, booster, pedals all in and dropped in the wiring harness. I’m not sure if everything is exactly where it should be, but it looks like it will work.

In my bcm pic, there’s 2 black boxes that are different. The one on the top left is actually the 50a bcm fuse. My positive cable has been hacked on by the previous owner and the small fuse holder they were using wasn’t going to cut it, so I bought a 60a fuse holder and using a 50a fuse in there. The other black box is the seat belt module, commonly known as the tpms module. mine broke into pieces, so I grabbed a evap filter i Had laying around and modified it to hold the seatbelt module.

 

[Rttoys]

The cluster is in and my lovely assistant (wife) helped me wire up the buttons. I even taught her how to solder.

To add the button panel, you’ll need to drill out the lower dr hole to work properly (you’ll need to do this even without the panel). Then the parts go as follows:

top shorter bolts-
panel
short spacer
cluster
short spacer
nut

bottom long bolts-
panel
long spacer
cluster
short spacer
nut

 

[JBINTX]

looking good Russell!

 

[Rttoys]

Thanks

I mounted the main rad and I/c rad with the help of my lovely assistant. I have always been a believer in good strong fans, so I upgraded the ones that came in the kit, with Spal fans. These puppies move some air. I wish I still had my flow meter to see what the cfm difference is. Both of my fan circuits are capable of holding 30a or more, so I’m fine there. Also, as I was in my thinking phase (it happens a lot), I decided to use a pusher fan on the i/c. My brilliant theory is to keep all airflow in the same direction, so if the air comes through the rad, then the i/c and continue the flow and push the air down and under the car. I know it might be “hot air” from the rad coming through, I think it will be fine. If it’s not fine, I have a puller that’s can be installed anytime.

 

[Rttoys]

We got the gas tank in and decided to go ahead and mount the engine. I was missing some spacers for one of the engine mounts, so I cannibalized the stock engine mount.

 

[Rttoys]

My lovely assistant worked on the rad hoses while I ran temporary fuel lines, worked on the UHFB and wiring. I wasn’t crazy about the curvy stock lines off the fuel pump, so I’ll deal with that in a bit. The filter to engine was was not being cooperative and I wasn’t crazy about the 90* fitting to be used at the engine. Thinking about it, the stock line was designed for this engine, so I cut the stock fuel line off the car and to my surprise, it worked perfectly to the filter, by adding the 90* quick connect at the filter.

 

[Rttoys]

And to the good stuff. After months, years, decades of stressing over the wiring, she fired up on the first try.

 

[Rttoys]

I cleaned up the fuel hoses using Gates high pressure hoses. I still have a ton of cleaning up to do with the wiring and such, in the back. I hope to get a ton done over the Memorial Day weekend.

 

[Rttoys]

Made some good progress this afternoon. I must have thrown the old rad hoses away and for some reason the lower hose on mine is made of unobtainium. So, just looking at other hoses, I decided to try a lower hose for a 2010 cobalt with the 2.2L. It actually routes nicely and looks like it belongs.