Oldchevyguy
Well-Known Member
- Oldchevyguy Well-Known Member
Hi unpacking my kit, I do not find a slug to pull the cooling hose CV threw the chassis tubes. Is it provided? If so, what hardware packet is it in?
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V1 Slug for pulling cooling hose, where is it?
Oldchevyguy
Well-Known Member
- Oldchevyguy Well-Known Member
Also, my frame is not notched in front for the rubber cooling hose to exit. No mention of having to cut the frame in the video. Did anyone else have to do this?
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
- Ark :D Goblin Guru
Does your frame look like mine in the front?
dfkitcar.com
Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)
Gonna try. We don't have much decent weather left, as you well know. :)
Oldchevyguy
Well-Known Member
- Oldchevyguy Well-Known Member
Yes it does. Bottom tubes are open. Do you have a shot of the radiator mounting to the frame and the hoses?Does your frame look like mine in the front?
Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)
Gonna try. We don't have much decent weather left, as you well know. :)
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
- Karter2026 Goblin Guru
Here is the best picture I have http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...-lt-xfe-pa-build-72-registered.483/post-12762
DCMoney
Goblin Guru
- DCMoney Goblin Guru
Video your watching is an old front end design. What you have is correct.
I used one of my front brake caliper spacers as my slug, then later on in the build found the actual slug that was sent or at least I think that's was it was for, it was more of a ring than a slug.
Oldchevyguy
Well-Known Member
- Oldchevyguy Well-Known Member
Do you remember what hardware kit had the slug?
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
They have a much better way of pulling the hose. Don't use the aluminum slug method. I'm not sure if it's on this site somewhere or not. I found out about it in person.
Hard to explain without pictures. You slice from about 6" back from the end of the hose towards the end; like whittling wood. This thins out the end of the hose. Then tie a bunch of knots in the pull rope and put the knots in the hose and lay the hose in the cut-out. Then zip tie the hose closed around the pull rope. We used this method the second time and it worked so much better than the other way.
Hard to explain without pictures. You slice from about 6" back from the end of the hose towards the end; like whittling wood. This thins out the end of the hose. Then tie a bunch of knots in the pull rope and put the knots in the hose and lay the hose in the cut-out. Then zip tie the hose closed around the pull rope. We used this method the second time and it worked so much better than the other way.
Parson Green
Well-Known Member
- Parson Green Well-Known Member
We didn't use our "slug" Just a length of old tiedown strap with a doubled-up knot at the end. Took us about 1/2 hour and no apparatus was used. The guy doing the pulling needs to be in a sitting position with his feet braced against the frame. The hose-feeding guy needs a rag soaked with the tire-slick stuff. Spray the rag repeatedly and then rub it onto the hose generously. No need for a continuous pull. Better to stop every couple of feet and apply more tire slick to the hose. Good luck!
DCMoney
Goblin Guru
- DCMoney Goblin Guru
Similar to this?
mnKevin (city, extended) 08 SS/TC #172
Hey guys, starting my build log. I live 45 minutes north of Minneapolis MN. I been in the shadows watching and learning from everyone. Finally took the plunge and ordered my kit early September after visiting Red Oak TX. I got my donor spring 2017 it is 08 ss tc with few mods at 24psi. My...
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Yep.
I was using the tractor to pull the hoses through and had a heck of a time until I used this method. Still used the tractor and couldn't see around the loader to know if it was pulling okay or not. From the sounds, I thought it wasn't even pulling but Kaleb was watching it and assured me it was pulling just fine. Bottom line, it worked so well, I couldn't even tell that I was pulling the hoses with the tractor. Thought for sure I could have done it just as easy by hand.
I was using the tractor to pull the hoses through and had a heck of a time until I used this method. Still used the tractor and couldn't see around the loader to know if it was pulling okay or not. From the sounds, I thought it wasn't even pulling but Kaleb was watching it and assured me it was pulling just fine. Bottom line, it worked so well, I couldn't even tell that I was pulling the hoses with the tractor. Thought for sure I could have done it just as easy by hand.
- Lonny Administrator
This gets attached to a 2x4 that attaches to the frame. You will use a drill to turn it.
We have tested it a few times using our Ryobi cordless drill. It easily pulls the hoses through.
Our customers will have to supply the drill and 2x4 and drill two holes through the 2x4.
It uses one of the rear shock bolts from the donor to attach the 2x4 to one of the rear vertical subframe tubes and donor hardware to attach the other end to the forward subframe mounting point.
The hose pulling kit is $35 plugs shipping.
We don't pull anything through to pre lube the inside of the tubing anymore.
We get the hose ready to pull, spray quite a bit of tire wet in the tube ahead of where the hose is about to enter the tubing and then coat the outside of the hose with tire wet.
Make sure you use "tire wet" and not "tire shine"!
Oldchevyguy
Well-Known Member
- Oldchevyguy Well-Known Member
Here is another way to pull the hose through. I put the back of my frame against an immovable object, in my case a 4 post lift, although many things could work, then used a small electric winch. A come-a- long would work too.
JeffsGoblin
Goblin Guru
- JeffsGoblin Goblin Guru
Did a similar thing here: http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...rack-07-ss-sc-donor-chassis-91.594/post-15369
