V1 Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

[r3drckt]

Go to 5:20 of this build video and see if you have a large blue wire in your black fuse box plug like the video shows:

Still check for continuity though between the front wire and the connector at the back though.

 

[Gtstorey]

Late models have the light blue for the cooling fan feeding from X1-F10.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Go to 5:20 of this build video and see if you have a large blue wire in your black fuse box plug like the video shows:

Still check for continuity though between the front wire and the connector at the back though.

Is this video from the old build video series? I have not seen this one before.

I don't remember leaving any cables long in any of the multiplugs - if they weren't extended/used they were cut flush. I also don't remember any wires being left long like that from the harness videos. I'll be sure to check the multiplug when I am checking continuity.

 

[r3drckt]

Yes, that is from the original build series. Don't think they've gotten this far yet on the new build series.

Like I said, I haven't started assembly yet (hopefully this week!) so I'm assuming you're still reaching back to the radiator plug/wire on the engine harness for the front radiator fan.

 

[Sluggonaut]

The black multi-plug is from the engine harness, which I haven't done anything with yet. The wire referenced in the video is still intact for me and looks to run to the radiator fan plug.

I guess I need to go back and watch the original build series to see what steps I have not done or will need to do in the absence of the new video series. I remember trying to watch these early on and some were deleted, so I just waited until I started and watched just the new series. I'm almost done with the new series so it may get interesting going forward. lol

 

[r3drckt]

Glad you were able to sort through that at least. You could either tap into the wire at the fuse block then or at the plug itself and should be good. Remember that the original build videos were for a NA and not a SC/TC build so there will still be subtle differences.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Confirmed; I wrapped the radiator fan wire with a ground instead of the HE fan wire during the last harness video. I ended up with an extra pink power wire by the dash wiring so that is likely the HE fan wire. I am not going to run the HE fan with the NACA ducts initially, but if I need to add it I now know where to find the wires.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I had read previously that the DF re-drilled hubs came with the studs in the original 5x110 holes, but I verified mine have the studs in the 5x114.3 holes, at least on the one I opened. I was going to swap those around but I sure am glad I checked first.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I was just reading about a cracked manifold in another build log the other day and just found my cracked manifold today while de-greasing my powertrain:

Other than this being a common issue, does this need to be fixed if I don't have an exhaust leak?

My only experience with the 2.0 is this LSJ with the K04 swap. Will the typical ZZP shorty header work with the K04 swap?

 

[Rttoys]

That’s probably not a crack. That splits sections of the cast manifold. They do this, so it doesn’t crack. either way, you need a ZZP header just to be sure it’s ok.

 

[Ark :D]

I'd also recommend a smaller pulley and bigger injectors, you know, to preserve the life of that ZZP header.

 

[Rttoys]

I'd also recommend a smaller pulley and bigger injectors, you know, to preserve the life of that ZZP header.

You just have too. It’s for the children.…..

 

[Sluggonaut]

I'd also recommend a smaller pulley and bigger injectors, you know, to preserve the life of that ZZP header.

I'm beyond the need for a pulley...and I think the E85 tune is using 80#ers currently.

 

[r3drckt]

The zzp LSJ header won’t work with the k04 turbo swap as it doesn’t have the correct flange to connect up the turbo. Now that doesn’t mean you can’t buy it, cut off the end and weld on the correct flange, but it’d probably be cheaper to just buy the LNF k04 exhaust header and mount that up.

 

[Gtstorey]

That’s probably not a crack. That splits sections of the cast manifold. They do this, so it doesn’t crack. either way, you need a ZZP header just to be sure it’s ok.

Both of my engines have that spli, both the pullout and the new ATK with now about 1000miles.

 

[Sluggonaut]

After getting the steering wheel assembly together for the most part, I got stuck. I searched the forum and verified what I've done so far seems correct, but I am stumped by some extra screws, missing screws, and a touch of confusion:

1. Extra screws: What are these screws for? These are listed as the M6 x 1.00 x 14. So far every parts bag has exactly what was listed and what was listed was used, but I have no idea what these are for and the steering assembly is done:

2. Missing screws: I received 3 of the small screws to hold the wiring circles into place and I need 4. They are too small for any of my screw gauging devices and not sure what size I need to order - anyone know what the specs are on these?

3: Stumped: The quick disconnect steering wheel is pretty self-explanatory and after seeing how the wires interact between the disconnect pieces I understand the durability concerns mentioned in other posts with the screw heads being the primary connection. However, my confusion is how the wires get routed for the piece that bolts to the steering shaft. When the round disc gets screwed into that piece (once I can find a 4th screw anyway) there's nowhere for the wires to go.

I still don't know where that split aluminum ring is supposed to go either. I read elsewhere that Lonny says it is not needed but I'm still curious as to what it is for exactly.

What are the wire extensions for? Is this the missing piece to my puzzle? If so, I'm still stumped.

 

[Rauq]

The wires would be for a horn button, but as far as I know, nobody's run them yet. I came to roughly the same conclusion you did- about the only way to get them out of the hub would be to drill a hole parallel or near parallel to the steering shaft through the hub.

I think there were a few pieces of bonus hardware in the steering kit that came with the original wheel, including the split aluminum ring.

 

[Sluggonaut]

The wires would be for a horn button, but as far as I know, nobody's run them yet. I came to roughly the same conclusion you did- about the only way to get them out of the hub would be to drill a hole parallel or near parallel to the steering shaft through the hub.

Yes, I was hoping to have a horn button on the wheel as opposed to the dash, but now I know why there's not much detail on how to do it on the forum. lol

I think there were a few pieces of bonus hardware in the steering kit that came with the original wheel, including the split aluminum ring.

Got it. I forget that the removable wheel was an add-on and there may be parts in the kit for the original wheel.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I bolted the driver seat in tonight to get an idea of where the steering wheel will line up. The shimming I did to the EPS puts the shaft too high to mount the wheel assembly, so those will come out and will be addressed once I get the wheel assembly where I want it. I'm hoping to not have to deal with clutch interference again once I get the wheel position finalized.

The bad news is that even in the forward-most position, my seat is a bit too far from the pedals for me. There's no more room on the DF seat brackets to drill more holes so I'll have to think on this one for a bit on how to get the seat another inch or 2 closer to the pedals. If anyone else has dealt with this please share your solution.

 

[Ross]

I put a 2" block on my gas pedal to help align it with the brake. Maybe look at moving/blocking the pedals forward?