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V1 Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

baustin
I bolted the driver seat in tonight to get an idea of where the steering wheel will line up. The shimming I did to the EPS puts the shaft too high to mount the wheel assembly, so those will come out and will be addressed once I get the wheel assembly where I want it. I'm hoping to not have to deal with clutch interference again once I get the wheel position finalized.

The bad news is that even in the forward-most position, my seat is a bit too far from the pedals for me. There's no more room on the DF seat brackets to drill more holes so I'll have to think on this one for a bit on how to get the seat another inch or 2 closer to the pedals. If anyone else has dealt with this please share your solution.
Yep, I had to deal with this. I have an extended frame and mounting brackets for an extended. I think they made different seat brackets for non extended frames that used to be available but I just made adapter plates.


http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...06-ss-sc-donor-157-registered.1153/post-24158
 

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Sluggonaut
Yep, I had to deal with this. I have an extended frame and mounting brackets for an extended. I think they made different seat brackets for non extended frames that used to be available but I just made adapter plates.


http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...06-ss-sc-donor-157-registered.1153/post-24158

Is there room for the adapters between the seat and the brackets? I have the wide seats and it's fairly tight with the bracket mounting tabs both facing the middle of the car.

When I had struggles while trying to mock the seats up before powder (I was only doing bracket tabs both in or both out) I noticed the both-in configuration allowed for tons of room - probably way more than would be needed for adapters.

Lonny said:
We have two different seat mount styles. It sounds like you will need the set that allows the seat to be closer to the steering wheel.
Email [email protected] and let them know.

I discussed this with Adam briefly after I had already sent my current brackets off for powder coating (I tried to have my guy pull the brackets but he already shot all the parts getting black powder), so I'll have to reach out again. Seeing the brackets together would be helpful in making my decision.
 
Sluggonaut
As good of a job as I did labeling wires, I did not label any of the cooling hoses.

I had to pull the hose from the front of the oil cooler that runs to the heater tubes so I could install the loopback hose from the kit. This made me go back to see if I caught the hose routing in any of my pre-teardown pics - I didn't.

I've searched for the hose routing diagram to no avail and the Alldatadiy that I have access to is for 2006 SS/SC and it doesn't look like it has the oil cooler, so it didn't help.

I'm trying to get the hoses in place before bolting the engine into place and I'm not sure how the oil cooler gets plumbed in after installing the loopback hose. I think one of the heater core hoses ran to it and the other to one of the heater pipes but I don't remember.

Also, does the IC pump inlet hose look normal? It seems excessive kinked/collapsed where it makes the bend between the pump and the tee:
31331


From the rpics I've seen there's not a lot of room between the IC hoses and the fuel tank, so I want to clean it up and fix this kink before install if it is going to be a problem.
 
G
I don’t know anything about the hose route for the SC but if that hose needs to flow water, what you have won’t work. You are going to have to do it differently if the connection points are correct.
 
baustin
As good of a job as I did labeling wires, I did not label any of the cooling hoses.

I had to pull the hose from the front of the oil cooler that runs to the heater tubes so I could install the loopback hose from the kit. This made me go back to see if I caught the hose routing in any of my pre-teardown pics - I didn't.

I've searched for the hose routing diagram to no avail and the Alldatadiy that I have access to is for 2006 SS/SC and it doesn't look like it has the oil cooler, so it didn't help.

I'm trying to get the hoses in place before bolting the engine into place and I'm not sure how the oil cooler gets plumbed in after installing the loopback hose. I think one of the heater core hoses ran to it and the other to one of the heater pipes but I don't remember.

Also, does the IC pump inlet hose look normal? It seems excessive kinked/collapsed where it makes the bend between the pump and the tee:
View attachment 31331

From the rpics I've seen there's not a lot of room between the IC hoses and the fuel tank, so I want to clean it up and fix this kink before install if it is going to be a problem.
I might be wrong but it looks like you have a dual pass setup on the intercooler. I think your hoses look very different than mine there (I don't have a dual pass), I don't remember any pvc T's as stock...
 
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Sluggonaut
I don’t know anything about the hose route for the SC but if that hose needs to flow water, what you have won’t work. You are going to have to do it differently if the connection points are correct.

This is how it came out of the donor and the only thing disconnected is the Option B tank hose that connects to the open spot on the tee (the heat exchanger is obviously disconnected but the hoses for it are still attached where they were).

I was surprised to see it collapsed that much. I only drove the donor a few times and I honestly don't know if it was flowing or not. The donor ran fine and performed great, so not sure what to think.

Also, in looking through the helpful photo albums some more, the IC plumbing will be changing quite a bit so that hose will be running to the hard line in the channel. I also have no idea how I plumb my dual-pass, option B setup with the turbo A2W intercooler.
 
G
This is how it came out of the donor and the only thing disconnected is the Option B tank hose that connects to the open spot on the tee (the heat exchanger is obviously disconnected but the hoses for it are still attached where they were).

I was surprised to see it collapsed that much. I only drove the donor a few times and I honestly don't know if it was flowing or not. The donor ran fine and performed great, so not sure what to think.

Also, in looking through the helpful photo albums some more, the IC plumbing will be changing quite a bit so that hose will be running to the hard line in the channel. I also have no idea how I plumb my dual-pass, option B setup with the turbo A2W intercooler.
Get a longer piece of hose so you can make a more graceful curve or find a hose that has a formed 90 on one end that you can then loop around.
 
Rttoys
Hopefully this helps a little.hard to see the oil cooler hoses.

use some new hose on the ic to smooth out any kinks. They should not be flat like they
 

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Sluggonaut
Hopefully this helps a little.hard to see the oil cooler hoses.

use some new hose on the ic to smooth out any kinks. They should not be flat like they

It's hard to see where those hoses run in the pic.

I know where the one closest to the T-stat went, but I had to pull it to connect the two heater pipes. I can figure something out if I know where in the loop the oil cooler should be.
 
Sluggonaut
My next hurdle is figuring out how the IC circuit is supposed to look on a turbo-swapped LSJ.

The diagram for the A2W intercooler in the helpful photo album is pretty straightforward, but I'm not sure how the LSJ intake with the dual-pass and option B tank figure into it:
31341


I assume the option B tank setup takes the place of the Plug and Tee at the top, but do I just run the intake circuit in series before/after the A2W intercooler?
 
Fozda
This is how ZZP says to plumb the IC hoses with the dual pass endplate. I believe the Option B setup just replaces the fill neck with a coolant reservoir.
31342
 
Fozda
The strange part is that this is the Option B plumbing diagram which is opposite so maybe you should follow this setup.
31343
 
Sluggonaut
I agree that the option B tank is just a replacement for the fill neck from the stock configuration.

I have seen these diagrams before and they make sense when plumbing a regular SC'd LSJ, but with my turbo swap, I have the air-to-water intercooler setup included in my DF kit. Assuming it gets plumbed in serial to this circuit, should it go before or after the intake portion diagramed above?
 
Fozda
Turbo swap doesn't change anything though, it just replaces the blower with an adapter so cooling system stays the same.
The part of the diagram that says "to heat exchanger" means the A2W heat exchanger provided by DF in the kit.
 
R
Your problem is that you’re trying to include 2 A2W intercoolers in your intake path. The one included in the DF kit can be forgone as the LSJ intake has the laminova cores in it for the A2W intercooling.

If you forgo the DF A2W intercooler, you’d just run a silicon piece off the turbo inlet to the MAF tube from DF to a filter (simplified as you may need some additional silicon turns and solid tubing).

If you want to run both A2W intercoolers, then you can run the cooling loop in series or parallel. Although I would think that the stock pump would be overwhelmed trying to pull that much fluid from 2 A2W intercoolers and trying to push it to the single heat exchanger.
 
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