Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
I think I understand what your saying, but do you have a picture of what you did? Does the extra line that vents to ground just keep the tank from building pressure?
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Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
Yes I did. The fuel pump hold down ring is only like 1/16" of an inch under the frame rail. I'll probably trim a flat spot in it once I remove it, just in case I have to service the pump at a later date.
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
Thank youTurbo fuel pump orientation
Turbo fuel pump orientation
Using pliers you can twist and pull the two steel rods out of the top. Turn the top 180 degrees and reinstall the rods.dfkitcar.com
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Since the cap is sealed, the tank needs to be able to equalize pressure with the atmosphere. When using fuel, it will draw from the tank and cause a vacuum inside the tank if not for the vent. On the other side, if the tank heats up and expand it will pressurize and will need to vent the extra pressure.
I can take a photo of what I have it it may not be the suggested setup.
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
So why wouldnt we run a hose from the filler neck vent tube to the ground, and just eliminate the brass nipple in the tank. I'm not understanding the extra step of adding the T.
- Lonny Administrator
When we used just the vent tube, everytime we tried to fill up it would kick the pump off. Which was very frustrating.
The original cobalt tank had multiple vents. By enlarging the filler tube and adding the extra vent it allows us to fill the tank normally without having to ease the fuel in.
The original cobalt tank had multiple vents. By enlarging the filler tube and adding the extra vent it allows us to fill the tank normally without having to ease the fuel in.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
Everything makes sense now!
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
Got the fuel pump installed, along with the vent tubes. Then I installed my motor! For anyone building, the car gets extremely ass heavy once the motor is installed. Put your jack stands as far back as you can on the frame rails, and I recommend having your battery up front for ballast. Hey turbo guys, did I install the fuel pump at the right orientation? And check my motor mount bolts. I believe I have them in the right holes, but there seems to be multiple options.
Christopher Sanchez
Well-Known Member
- Christopher Sanchez Well-Known Member
When I hit this point in my build it dawned me.. THIS IS NUTS! haha. Super clean build!
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
My motor is not as clean as some peoples. The photo makes it look brand new!
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
Tonight was front suspension. I found that I was shorted the nuts to install the control arms to the frame. So right now, everything is sitting where it should be, just not tightened down. I ran into a problem with attaching the ball joints. I assume you have to take off the original ball joints from the steering rack and install the ones provided by DF. The problem I am having is I have a really bad toe out problem. Even with the new ball joints only threaded on ~5 turns. Racking my brain to figure this out. Starting to think I built my uprights wrong. I looked at a few pictures I could find on the forum, and my upright look like others. Any help is appreciated.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
- Karter2026 Goblin Guru
Your top brackets at the control arm are good. The bottoms need to be turned around Other than that from this view I cant see anything obvious.
http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/mannys-city-goblin-07-ss-sc-donor.559/page-11#post-17885
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
Oh I see. That would explain the camber problem also. I'll see if that works.
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
- Tim Moland Well-Known Member
Got the front suspension all figured out thanks to everyone's advice. I still had to turn the ball links out from the cobalt's original position. Just doing rough measuring, I have the upright at a slight toe in position. I think I read somewhere you needed that for good tracking.
Then I moved on to installing the rear radiator hoses(the ones I have), and then the subframe. I don't have all the bolts tight yet. Having issues getting the front solid transmission mount to line up. I think I will loosen the engine to frame bolts tomorrow and see if that gives me enough wiggle room to get everything lined up.
Then I moved on to installing the rear radiator hoses(the ones I have), and then the subframe. I don't have all the bolts tight yet. Having issues getting the front solid transmission mount to line up. I think I will loosen the engine to frame bolts tomorrow and see if that gives me enough wiggle room to get everything lined up.
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
- BaltimoreHokie Goblin Guru
Nice job. The more I see it the more I like that color.
- taz_va Member
I don't want to hijack your thread, it's just that your pictures are so perfect for my question: Relating to the aluminum stock used in the steering assembly in your pics up above, is it safe to presume it's not "clear" anodized, it's just bare aluminum?
Love the pics, keep them coming.
Love the pics, keep them coming.
