V1 Tim's Extended Track Lower Entry - 10 SS/Tc *REGISTERED*

[askiles]

I'm going to use Tygon 2375. Used it for brake fluid applications for years. No swelling, sweating, leaking.

https://www.mcmaster.com/tygon-2375-tubing

It says under the specs that it is not recomended for use with hydraulic fluid synthetic oil...are you sure this stuff is kosher with brake fluid?

 

[DCMoney]

It says under the specs that it is not recomended for use with hydraulic fluid synthetic oil...are you sure this stuff is kosher with brake fluid?

Yes, it's good. Years of use on my end.

Google Search

 

[askiles]

Yes, it's good. Years of use on my end.

Google Search

Cool!

 

[Tim Moland]

Where am I to ground the intercooler pump at? Can I just hook it up to the engine block? Maybe to the pump bracket?

 

[Briann1177]

You can ground it wherever is convenient. The engine block is just fine. You can use the pump bracket, but you just have to make sure the bracket has a good electrical connection back to the negative side of the battery. For me personally I ran additional ground wires for the pump, radiator fan, etc. I didn't like the idea of drilling holes in my frame for a ground wire.

Totally up to you.

 

[Tim Moland]

Got some things done in the last week.

Got the intercooler piping finished up. The heat exchanger plumbed and pump wired up. I think I got the heat exchanger circulated enough to get most of the air out. I can't help but think the intercooler is only about half full of coolant, despite the fill tube being above the top. I'll keep an eye on it. I wired up the Headlights, blinkers and tail lights. Still need to mount the tag light and get the resister wired up to the 3rd brake light wire to make the cruise work. Installed all four rotors and calipers along with the brake lines. Riveted on the firewall tonight and installed the passenger kick panel. I think tomorrow night will be brake bleeding. I have bled individual brake lines before but never a new system. Any help, or video link, would be appreciated. I read someone bench bled the master cylinder. Is that necessary, or can I do that while it's in the car?

 

[Briann1177]

Attach a hose that curves above the caliper and down into a bottle. Make sure it's a tight fit on the bleeder screw and attach a zip tie around the hose where it hooks up to the bleeder screw. Then slowly pump away making sure you frequently check your fluid level in the master cylinder. No bench bleeding or fancy vacuum or pressure bleeder required.

 

[Tim Moland]

I actually have a "fancy vacuum". Do I start with the caliper that is closest to the master cylinder, or furthest away, or does it matter? And then, how about the clutch. Is it the same thing as the brakes with its bleeder screw?

 

[Karter2026]

I actually have a "fancy vacuum". Do I start with the caliper that is closest to the master cylinder, or furthest away, or does it matter? And then, how about the clutch. Is it the same thing as the brakes with its bleeder screw?

I always start at the furthest away so RR, LR, LF, RF. Yes the clutch is the same way I would also open the RR bleeder and put the tube on it and let it gravity bleed for a while before you start.

 

[Tim Moland]

I always start at the furthest away so RR, LR, LF, RF. Yes the clutch is the same way I would also open the RR bleeder and put the tube on it and let it gravity bleed for a while before you start.

Would the clutch be last since it comes from a separate area of the reservoir? Or after both rear lines are done(next furthest from the reservoir)?

 

[phaetonman7]

You can do the clutch before or after the brakes that order does not mater. Just the order of the brakes farthest to nearest.

 

[ctuinstra]

Would the clutch be last since it comes from a separate area of the reservoir? Or after both rear lines are done(next furthest from the reservoir)?

Just be careful about the amount of fluid you keep in the reservoir during bleeding of the clutch. See this post:

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/warning-clutch-fluid-level.858/

 

[Tim Moland]

Got my clutch and brakes bled. Worked on some tunnel stuff. Mostly the e brake setup. Got it all installed and working. Decided to take it off the jack stands and let it stand on its own feet. I need to adjust the coilovers, as it's only 3 1/2" off the ground in the front.

Here are some pictures of my E brake setup in case anyone else is struggling through it.

 

[Tim Moland]

 

[bradr]

Thank you for the awesome pictures! I am sure this will be helpful during my build. Will you be retaining the switch on the ebrake for the brake light in the cluster? If so, where do you plan on having the wire enter the tunnel?

 

[Tim Moland]

No I do not. That wire was removed from my harness.

 

[Tony]

Looks like you beat me to it. I didn't think about fitment with the firewall since mine isn't installed yet. Thanks for all the good pictures. I need to figure out where I can mount the cable tubes since I cut off the radiator tabs.

 

[Tim Moland]

I had to bend the crap out of them to get them to fit the radiator tabs, so your not missing out on much.

 

[Tim Moland]

Also, I will be trimming the ears off of the E brake bracket that hang over the edge of the tunnel cap. I didn't think that they would be an issue, but once I got the seat in, the bracket interferes with the seat sliding all the way back.

 

[Tim Moland]

Took it out for the first time today. The second I backed out of the garage, it started to rain. I went anyways.