V1 ToothMagician's Full Cage Country Goblin #493 - '06 SS LSJ Turbo donor

[ToothMagician]

I'm Having a problem installing the upper BCM mounting bolt. The frame keeps getting in the way. Any solves?

 

[Rttoys]

Yep. Turn the bolt around. bonus is it makes it easier to remove the foot plate if you need to the bcm

 

[Gtstorey]

Shorter bolt for sure. Your bulkhead might be a little low so you might have drill another hole. I welded a bracket on the frame for the bolt to thread into since just attaching it to the thin sheet metal didn’t seem like enough.

 

[Rttoys]

.

 

[ToothMagician]

Thank you! I feel slightly dumb, haha. Simple fix is the right fix.

 

[ToothMagician]

Fixed. Gave it a little cap. Was still a pain to get it in though. Oh, well ...

 

[Robinjo]

Instead of the small second spacer in Rttoys picture I used a nylon locknut. That way when you inevitably have to get behind the BCM it’s just one nut. Without that you have to get an allen wrench back behind the frame in a hard to read position.

 

[ToothMagician]

Your results may vary, but the Dorman #20717 replacement pad was a perfect fit on my clutch pedal.

These were a great solution, thanks!

Couple things:
I added split wire loom to all the installed harness wires. I like how clean it looks.

I have an extra foam pad for the brake pedal. Lemme know if you need one. ***Claimed***

Has anyone else had to do this with their fuel pump? I had to cut the edge of the plate to get past the connector. Good?

I'm feeling a little intimidated, looking at the engine. There's, what I think is, an EVAP line or the supercharger bypass selenoid, but am not sure. Any thought?

I painted all the donor parts with high temp enamel paint... It's trash, flakes off with the slightest touch. Shoulda used Rustoleum 2x.. oh, well. I'm gonna bring the lower control arms, subframe, and anything that's for more than just looks to powdercoat.

Is there anything I can do now to the engine to make life easier for after the install. My plan is to get the engine components plugged in best I can using the videos, then put the turbo components together utilizing my donor photos afterwards to minimize confusion.

That's all I got for now, just want to make sure the engine is as prepped as I can get it before it goes into the car.

ah.b.normal - I'm getting that list together, I'll have a message for you sometime this weekend - thanks again!

 

[ah.b.normal]

These were a great solution, thanks!

Couple things:
I added split wire loom to all the installed harness wires. I like how clean it looks.

View attachment 45301

View attachment 45302

I have an extra foam pad for the brake pedal. Lemme know if you need one.

View attachment 45303

Has anyone else had to do this with their fuel pump? I had to cut the edge of the plate to get past the connector. Good?

View attachment 45304

I'm feeling a little intimidated, looking at the engine. There's, what I think is, an EVAP line or the supercharger bypass selenoid, but am not sure. Any thought?

View attachment 45305

View attachment 45306

I painted all the donor parts with high temp enamel paint... It's trash, flakes off with the slightest touch. Shoulda used Rustoleum 2x.. oh, well. I'm gonna bring the lower control arms, subframe, and anything that's for more than just looks to powdercoat.

Is there anything I can do now to the engine to make life easier for after the install. My plan is to get the engine components plugged in best I can using the videos, then put the turbo components together utilizing my donor photos afterwards to minimize confusion.

That's all I got for now, just want to make sure the engine is as prepped as I can get it before it goes into the car.

ah.b.normal - I'm getting that list together, I'll have a message for you sometime this weekend - thanks again!

That’s cool! I’ll get the bits together and send them ASAP. I’ll message you with the gots and the nots and an ETA.

 

[ToothMagician]

Alright... I've got everything labeled and feel about 90% confident I can put the engine in and get it hooked up correctly. Plan is to get it in next weekend

Should the coolant return line be re-installed? I have no reason for this, other than the coolant overflow tank only attaches to the turbo if not.

Am I correct in thinking that the main radiator and the intercooler are separate systems? The Radiator from the front just loops in and out the block, while the intercooler follows the diagram? I'm second guessing myself because I've seen some other digrams where the radiator and intercooler are in a circuit.

I still don't understand the supercharger bypass solenoid. It's not plugged in on one side...never was. Under the electrical tape are two small vacuum line type plugs/receivers/connectors. Is it needed for a turbo converted car to run? I was utilizing the search function and saw somewhere that it has other purposes besides just running the supercharger. Should I just loop it, cap it, or delete it? Safe bet says cap it, but I'd like to lose any extraneous stuff.

The red plug is for the EVAP system, I'm gonna clip it out.

Thats all for now. As always, thanks for looking

 

[Rttoys]

Main cooling and intercooler are 2 separate systems. On a cobalt, looking at the diagram it’s easy to mistake they are together. They are separate though. Some put the old school green coolant in the ic cooler so if you see a leak you can easily tell if it’s intercooler (green) or main cooling (dex-cool pink)

 

[ToothMagician]

Main cooling and intercooler are 2 separate systems. On a cobalt, looking at the diagram it’s easy to mistake they are together. They are separate though. Some put the old school green coolant in the ic cooler so if you see a leak you can easily tell if it’s intercooler (green) or main cooling (dex-cool pink)

Awesome, that makes things much easier. Any word on the coolant return line, seems odd it just goes into turbo and that's it?

 

[ToothMagician]

ah.b.normal - here's that short list of bolts and miscellaneous things I'm on the hunt for. I think the kid who had the car before me liked to orphan fasteners on the garage floor when putting things back together.

(1) Valve cover bolt 10mm:

(1) Valve cover washer with bushing:

(1) Trans housing bolt 18mm:

(4) Ignition coil cover bolts GM Part #12789897 (I have 0 of these, so I couldn't check the head size or take a photo next to the tape measure):

Here it is in written form for ease of use:
(1) - Valve cover bolt 10mm
(1) - Valve cover washer with bushing
(1) - Trans housing bolt 18mm
(4) - Ignition coil cover bolts

Thanks for checking in on these for me, much appreciated!

 

[Ross]

Alright... I've got everything labeled and
...
Am I correct in thinking that the main radiator and the intercooler are separate systems?
Yes, separate systems. The engine radiator normally is around 180F,
and the intercooler radiator is normally ambient air temperature.
...
I still don't understand the supercharger bypass solenoid. It's not plugged in on one side...never was. Under the electrical tape are two small vacuum line type plugs/receivers/connectors. Is it needed for a turbo converted car to run?...
The vacuum lines on the bypass supercharger solenoid are used to operate the bypass butterfly valve.
The SC solenoid has 2 inputs (one is air pressure after the SC, the other is atmospheric pressure from that open port)
and 1 output going to the diaphragm that operates the SC bypass butterfly.

The ECU uses a PWM (Pulse width modulation) electrical signal to the bypass solenoid valve to command the SC bypass butterfly valve to 100% open, n% open, or stay closed.

Maybe this electrical PWM signal could be used to command the turbo wastegate or blow off valve solenoid? The nice thing about this electrical signal is that the ECU knows if there is an engine problem, and can put the car in limp mode, to protect the engine. In limp mode, no request for boost.

Maybe this electrical PWM signal could be an input to an electronic boost controller? Basically used as a boost command request from the ECU.

 

[Sluggonaut]

(4) Ignition coil cover bolts GM Part #12789897 (I have 0 of these, so I couldn't check the head size or take a photo next to the tape measure):
View attachment 45348View attachment 45349

Here are the ones I used for mine. Any M6x(1.00mm)x12mm should do it, I just went with the socket cap style to use with cup washers and fancify it a little.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Those cool cover bolts, none stocked yet. I’ve not ever picked any of those. Then again, after a complete search, I may find I’ve got some on board, If so I didn’t remember. For sure I’ll mail the others this week. see below. Colors! Need your actual address!

 

[ah.b.normal]

Here are the ones I used for mine. Any M6x(1.00mm)x12mm should do it, I just went with the socket cap style to use with cup washers and fancify it a little.

AND those come in COLORS! Cool!

 

[ToothMagician]

Those cool cover bolts, none stocked yet. I’ve not ever picked any of those. Then again, after a complete search, I may find I’ve got some on board, If so I didn’t remember. For sure I’ll mail the others this week. see below. Colors! Need your actual address!

Sent you a message. I do like the pretty colors ooooh

 

[ToothMagician]

@Ross
I had to read your reply 10+ times to completely understand, but this is super useful info! Thanks for literally spelling it out for me. It won't cause a problem if I delete it but it could be something useful since its a PWM signal! Haha LEARNING!!

 

[Sluggonaut]

The colored bolts give it some pop.