Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Unless someone beats me to it, I will check as soon as I get home from work.
Just for my knowledge to get you an answer, how are you measuring resistance at the ECM? My harness is already wrapped up. Does the top part of the ECM connector pop off like the BCM ones?On the BLUE circled pin, do you see ground while the key is at CRANK position?
This is for Ark, but i think a way to answer that is to turn your key to the run position. Make sure your fuel pump primes. Crank it and the pump should prime again. Any consecutive cranks, and the pump won't prime any more.Are you getting proper signal from the ignition switch? There is a white wire with a voltage dropping resistor that feeds the BCM plug X2 pin 56. That should be your actual start signal according to the wiring diagram.
Unfortunately, like Briann1177, I get no result whatsoever. I think something must have changed in the transition from LSJ to LNF.That sounds like a valid test. Check resistance from the blue circle on the relay, to ground, thru the ECM, when the key is in the crank position vs not-in-the-crank-position.
This will be my next test.Are you getting proper signal from the ignition switch? There is a white wire with a voltage dropping resistor that feeds the BCM plug X2 pin 56. That should be your actual start signal according to the wiring diagram.
This meshes exactly with what I am seeing, so I am not so concerned about it now ... still have a problem to find, but my confusion has now lessened a bit, and that's always a good thing.The results are in.
1. Red circle
I get 9.7V with in run position and 9.56V in crank position. Clutch position does not matter.
2. Blue circle
I get 0 ohms in key off, run, and crank positions. Clutch position also doesn't matter. Im a little confused on that.
This is exactly the behavior I have.This is for Ark, but i think a way to answer that is to turn your key to the run position. Make sure your fuel pump primes. Crank it and the pump should prime again. Any consecutive cranks, and the pump won't prime any more.
Unsurprisingly, this white wire tests good between the ignition switch and BCM X2/56. Tests about 1 ohm of resistance though, no more.Are you getting proper signal from the ignition switch? There is a white wire with a voltage dropping resistor that feeds the BCM plug X2 pin 56. That should be your actual start signal according to the wiring diagram.
Yes, that certainly would be handy, wouldn't it? I can get it powered up, but none of the Android or Windows programs I have attempted to use will connect to the ECM. They connect to the ELM327 fine, but nothing beyond that.I think you've poked, prodded, and tested everything you could possibly do with the crank circuit. I think it's safe to eliminate that as a problem area.
The only other areas off the top of my head are engine codes and the clutch sensor. It would be handy if you get your OBD-II scanner to power up.
Definitely have done that several times, with the last time being overnight last night.If it were engine codes, I think you can just unhook your battery for like 10 min to clear them. But I think you already tried that?
FWIW a lot of your posts have been helpful to me, keep the ramblings going!I'm planning to do, at most, one build update a week. It's a little weird, having the longest build thread on this forum, and is making me a little self-conscious. =O