Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
That turned out really nice!
Andrew's Extended Track Goblin - 08 SS/TC
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
I was planning on using the donor wheel as a set of tow wheels.
I had a tire guy pull the tires off and spin the rims, and they are most definitely destroyed
youtube.com
youtube.com
I had a tire guy pull the tires off and spin the rims, and they are most definitely destroyed
Bent Rim 2
youtube.com
Bent Rim
youtube.com
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Dang! Just short of this rim from my donor.
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
Well I'm getting into the final details of the electrical and am tracking down some issues.
I've decided to use the ABS CAN BUS in conjunction with the Cobalt CAN BUS to report to my dash. AIM is awesome and created a custom CAN protocol for the dash so I can run both though the same connection. It didn't work on the first go around, so AIM is troubleshooting it, hopefully it works out.
While AIM is working on the programing, I spent a few hours today and finalized the sway bar.
I had to make custom arms and weld everything together.
The left and right are not perfectly symmetrical, and I'm not sure why. I don't think it will be an issue, but its bothering me a bit.
Using 1/2" by 1 1/2" bar, I cut a notch so I could easily bend it to the correct angel.
Then filled in the notch with several passes and ground smooth.
Next I welded the slip collar on one end.
Then laid it all out on the table and welded the arms to the collars.
Finally put it all back in the car.
I cut the footwell cover, but need some better blades to cut the hood. So I'll tackle that next week some time.
I've decided to use the ABS CAN BUS in conjunction with the Cobalt CAN BUS to report to my dash. AIM is awesome and created a custom CAN protocol for the dash so I can run both though the same connection. It didn't work on the first go around, so AIM is troubleshooting it, hopefully it works out.
While AIM is working on the programing, I spent a few hours today and finalized the sway bar.
I had to make custom arms and weld everything together.
The left and right are not perfectly symmetrical, and I'm not sure why. I don't think it will be an issue, but its bothering me a bit.
Using 1/2" by 1 1/2" bar, I cut a notch so I could easily bend it to the correct angel.
Then filled in the notch with several passes and ground smooth.
Next I welded the slip collar on one end.
Then laid it all out on the table and welded the arms to the collars.
Finally put it all back in the car.
I cut the footwell cover, but need some better blades to cut the hood. So I'll tackle that next week some time.
Last edited:
dastrups
Well-Known Member
Looks good! Very curious to see how it improves the car. Will you go with the base sway bar on the rear?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Need to get some speedholes drilled into those big steel arms - gotta lighten them up a bit and make them look cool! 
Fantastic, will be interesting to see how the swaybar affects the chassis setup.
Fantastic, will be interesting to see how the swaybar affects the chassis setup.
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
I think I’m going to start with the SS bar because that’s what I have.
I fully expect to be tweaking the suspension for quite some time once I get it on the track.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
There will be a lot of tweaking. It seems like it’s never ending on the suspension. Tons to tweak and improve on.
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
Well, its been FAR too long....
At the beginning of 2022 I moved to a new part of the city, leaving the car at my old place. The garage quickly filled up with more crap and the motivation to work on the car was killed.
About a two ago I decided it was finally time to finish the car, but I needed a new place to do it. I rented a garage that is about 5 min from my house and yesterday got the car and all my tools and parts moved over.
I spent some time organizing this morning, trying to remember where I left off and what still needs to be done.
Work is till stupid busy for me, but fingers crossed I can get this thing running in the next several months.
Hopefully more regular updates are to come.
Packing Up
New Garage and Storage Space!
At the beginning of 2022 I moved to a new part of the city, leaving the car at my old place. The garage quickly filled up with more crap and the motivation to work on the car was killed.
About a two ago I decided it was finally time to finish the car, but I needed a new place to do it. I rented a garage that is about 5 min from my house and yesterday got the car and all my tools and parts moved over.
I spent some time organizing this morning, trying to remember where I left off and what still needs to be done.
Work is till stupid busy for me, but fingers crossed I can get this thing running in the next several months.
Hopefully more regular updates are to come.
Packing Up
New Garage and Storage Space!
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Welcome back!
SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
Post pictures of what’s you are not sure of and I’m sure we can help you
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
It’s not the DF Kit pieces that’s the problem. It’s all the custom stuff.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
I have done that one too many times.It’s not the DF Kit pieces that’s the problem. It’s all the custom stuff.
Hhhmmm what’s this…..oh, it that thing I made…….how in the hell was I going to mount that.
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
Well it fees good to be working on the car again.
I'm slowly wrapping my head around what is left and the best way to move forward.
The first big project is getting the catch can system set up.
After seeing how quickly other's catch cans are filling up, I've opted for a catch can that will drain the oil back to the pan.
The design is based on the Powell PCV Oil Separator
Here is a basic plumbing diagram.
The biggest hurdle with this set up is dealing with the PCV valve.
Its located inside the intake manifold, so you must remove it, tap and place a plug in its place.
You then drill and tap a hole in the top of the manifold in front of the plug, so you can add a fitting and hose to route it to the catch can.
This shows the PCV being removed
Tapping the PCV port with a 1/8 NPT tap and installing a plug
Drilling and tapping the manifold with a 3/8 NPT for a 3/8npt to 6AN fitting
3/8 NPT x 6AN fitting installed, with just enough clearance to reinstall the manifold bolt.
After the intake manifold work is done, I had to prep the valve cover and turbo.
After removing the valve cover and destroying the quick connect hose from the valve cover to the turbo, I removed the quick connect barb and tapped the hole with a 1/8 NPT tap so I could install a 1/8 NPT to 6AN fitting
On the turbo side, I was just barely able to fit a 3/8 Quick Connect to 6AN fitting
I still need to figure out how I'm getting the oil from the separator back into the oil pan.
The Powell system adds an AN port the oil dip stick tube. I don't know how to do that, so I'm thinking about just welding or taping a fitting into the oil pan.
With soo much of the rear of the car disassembled, I took the opportunity to remove the fuel tank, clean out the metal shavings and install the Centroid Fuel Sender.
Next up I need to re-assemble everything so I can figure out where to mount the separator and start making the lines.
I'm slowly wrapping my head around what is left and the best way to move forward.
The first big project is getting the catch can system set up.
After seeing how quickly other's catch cans are filling up, I've opted for a catch can that will drain the oil back to the pan.
The design is based on the Powell PCV Oil Separator
Here is a basic plumbing diagram.
The biggest hurdle with this set up is dealing with the PCV valve.
Its located inside the intake manifold, so you must remove it, tap and place a plug in its place.
You then drill and tap a hole in the top of the manifold in front of the plug, so you can add a fitting and hose to route it to the catch can.
This shows the PCV being removed
Tapping the PCV port with a 1/8 NPT tap and installing a plug
Drilling and tapping the manifold with a 3/8 NPT for a 3/8npt to 6AN fitting
3/8 NPT x 6AN fitting installed, with just enough clearance to reinstall the manifold bolt.
After the intake manifold work is done, I had to prep the valve cover and turbo.
After removing the valve cover and destroying the quick connect hose from the valve cover to the turbo, I removed the quick connect barb and tapped the hole with a 1/8 NPT tap so I could install a 1/8 NPT to 6AN fitting
On the turbo side, I was just barely able to fit a 3/8 Quick Connect to 6AN fitting
I still need to figure out how I'm getting the oil from the separator back into the oil pan.
The Powell system adds an AN port the oil dip stick tube. I don't know how to do that, so I'm thinking about just welding or taping a fitting into the oil pan.
With soo much of the rear of the car disassembled, I took the opportunity to remove the fuel tank, clean out the metal shavings and install the Centroid Fuel Sender.
Next up I need to re-assemble everything so I can figure out where to mount the separator and start making the lines.
Last edited:
Ross
Goblin Guru
Thanks for showing your work on this.
I need to learn the PCV system if I am going to turbo my LSJ.
I took my best guess at how the air and oil flow in your diagram. Not sure if I got it right.
Does the turbo line provide the vacuum for the whole PCV system?
Or does the green ? to the intake provide the vacuum?
When you plug the PCV tube, which side does the new 3/8NPT to 6 AN fitting go on?
I need to learn the PCV system if I am going to turbo my LSJ.
I took my best guess at how the air and oil flow in your diagram. Not sure if I got it right.
Does the turbo line provide the vacuum for the whole PCV system?
Or does the green ? to the intake provide the vacuum?
When you plug the PCV tube, which side does the new 3/8NPT to 6 AN fitting go on?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Ross, you're 90% there. The question mark you had for the airflow between the valve cover and intake (should be indicated as the intake pipe between the air filter and turbo inlet). There is a check valve missing where your check mark is in the diagram to only allow filtered air to flow into the valve cover - it should not flow from the valve cover to the intake pipe. This air into the valve cover is to compensate for any significant vacuum that may occur in the crankcase. Otherwise I believe you have captured the rest of the airflow correctly in the diagram.
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
Your assumptions are right with the exception that DS pointed out. The air flows from the intake to the valve cover as essentially makeup air.
Yes, the connection at the turbo is on the low pressure side creating the vacuum for the system.
The PCV valve is located in the path from the crank case to ensntally the throttle body. After plugging that path, the new fitting is tapped in on the crank case side, creating a path from the crank case to the Air/Oil Seperator, then back to the intake via the connection at the turbo.
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
I forgot about the check valve. Thanks!Ross, you're 90% there. The question mark you had for the airflow between the valve cover and intake (should be indicated as the intake pipe between the air filter and turbo inlet). There is a check valve missing where your check mark is in the diagram to only allow filtered air to flow into the valve cover - it should not flow from the valve cover to the intake pipe. This air into the valve cover is to compensate for any significant vacuum that may occur in the crankcase. Otherwise I believe you have captured the rest of the airflow correctly in the diagram.