RobC76
Well-Known Member
Did you ever have a chance to update files. Think I’d be interested in one. Willing to pay for it obviously. If you did do you have any pics of dash.
Thanks
Custom STL Files for 3D Printed Goblin Parts
- Thread starter Mayor West
- Start date
Thanks
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Not yet, but its on my short list. I'm waiting on some new bits to arrive. I'll be doing my first test with carving a plug out of foam board this week hopefully. I'll be making a fancier more 3D version out of fiberglass.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
It is part of a Cobalt, and likely lots of other GM vehicles.
I'd bet you could snack one at a junk yard for a buck.
Mine didn’t have that, but I don’t know if it even had an original terminal on it. And I replaced whatever terminal it did have anyway.
Really pretty much lawyer mandated crap any way. Cars didn’t have covers over the battery terminals for 100 years. Make sure the battery is properly fastened and pay attention with any tools in the vicinity.
Really pretty much lawyer mandated crap any way. Cars didn’t have covers over the battery terminals for 100 years. Make sure the battery is properly fastened and pay attention with any tools in the vicinity.
Things change when kids come to the equation. I had my hood off over the weekend due to rain in Florida. My son wants to help me and brings all kind of tools to the car and bangs on whatever is there. I want to avoid that he makes a short cut to ground. Car battery have 10x the nominal currant in a short cut. That gives a nice arch. Anyway, once time allows, I will sketch something up and share it.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
No one tell Thad, you'll break his heart.
SwerveMonkey
Well-Known Member
just a follow up from AEONS ago... thought I should eat my words and admit that indeed I did trust the 3dprinted part at highway speeds....
After having printed solid infill for a move between states I left the 3dprinted solid brackets on #197 for my long drives.
After several test drives in blind faith that the bracket would work I found that there was no problem leaving them installed.
That was two years ago... and now I think the only reason they failed on my is because i over tightened the screw holding it down to the chassis....D'oH!!!
you can see the crack in the PLA where the bolt holds it to the chassis is splintered.... too much torque i think.
Then there is the case that Both sides were still "intact" before i pulled them off #197.
I'll post the files i used if anyone would like them, just have to track down where i stored them first.
KSLunsfo
Well-Known Member
PLA is known to be kind of brittle and not particularly suitable for long term outdoor use. Something like PETG or ABS would be better long term. Or aluminum/steel of course if you had that capability... I'm always a fan of metal parts when possible, but 3d printing is quite convenient...
devianteng
Well-Known Member
Printed one in ABS. Used fuzzy settings because it gives it texture and hides layer lines.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I've been running a similar design headlight mount for a year now with 7" halo headlights in metal buckets, so not the lightest headlight configuration. Printed in PETG, they've held up to thousands of street miles and a couple track days hitting 120+mph. I did break one when I accidentally kicked it, though.
KSLunsfo
Well-Known Member
What fuzzy settings did you use? I've only printed one small thing with fuzzy settings. I would like to get something that closely matches the texture on the fuse box cover there, but that may be asking a lot...Printed one in ABS. Used fuzzy settings because it gives it texture and hides layer lines.
View attachment 45650View attachment 45651
devianteng
Well-Known Member
I use Bambu Studio with my P1S. Here is the settings I used for this specific print. IMO, it doesn't match the fuse box super well, but it doesn't look bad at all. If I were to print a new one, I'd probably increase the point distance, and decrease the thickness. Was my third ever fuzzy print, but never thought about trying to match the fuse box cover.
KSLunsfo
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I definitely don't think it looks bad either. I'm just wondering how close it could get to replicating a molded part texture/appearance that's similar to that on the fuse box cover (only as a reference since molded part textures can vary wildly). I know it'll never be near an exact match of course. I'm not doing a great job of saving projects of the things I'm printing lately, so not even sure if I have a way to look back and see what settings I used. My settings resulted in a smoother "fuzzy" surface. I'm using the creality slicer on a K1 Max.
SwerveMonkey
Well-Known Member
Had a hard time trying to track down files, and even now I am still trying to find the *.STL file.
For the time being though, I can provide the G-Code for direct to printer settings... but USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
gcode is tweaked for my printer and may not be the same across the board... however you may be able to convert using your preferred slicer.
just be certain to change the file type from "txt" to "gcode"
For the time being though, I can provide the G-Code for direct to printer settings... but USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
gcode is tweaked for my printer and may not be the same across the board... however you may be able to convert using your preferred slicer.
just be certain to change the file type from "txt" to "gcode"