Custom STL Files for 3D Printed Goblin Parts

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Would you be willing to share the lower button panel with the ALS and ignition holder?





Here tis (re-uploaded model into original post)

It has
  • Four 19mm buttons (For example, I'm going with ON/OFF, ENGINE START, HAZARD, HORN)
  • ALS
  • LNF ignition cylinder and VATS sensor
  • The key itself is only used to satisfy VATs and is not functional as a keyed ignition source without modification
I have not test this on any other cobalt models, and I only have access to a LNF models so I don't know if the key cylinder changes between models or if it works for non-vats stuff. It's a very snug fit and I spent a boat load of time making the lock cylinder smooth af. Pretty happy with it, I should have my buttons this weekend so I can finally take pics of it fully assembled (been waiting for over a month from China order on some custom buttons)

I am using BradR's ignition bypass to make this 100%. He only made a few of them so YMMV in using this model.
 
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Fozda

Well-Known Member
I was thinking I'd put a large push button where the key would go in that panel since VATS has been disabled. Would that work with the current design of the hole for the key shaft?
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I was thinking I'd put a large push button where the key would go in that panel since VATS has been disabled. Would that work with the current design of the hole for the key shaft?
Not really, I would need to take some material out. If you have an idea of what size button you want to put in there I could remove some stuff.
 

Fozda

Well-Known Member
I was thinking I'd use this Longacre push button. We used one in our ChopTop RV and it held up very nicely in the elements. It says the dimensions are "Mounts in a 5/8" diameter hole. The rubber cover has a 1.1" OD metal ring at the base. Requires 1 3/4" clearance behind the dash panel. Projects 7/8" from the front of the panel. Maximum OD of the body is 1 3/16".
19072
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
I'd be interested in purchasing some parts off you... I need to sell my wide format printer and laminator before I get another "printer"
 

r3drckt

Well-Known Member
I’ve been experimenting with PETG and it’s quite stiff once cooled, even with thinner areas. Not sure how it compares to PLA+, but PETG was my go to since it has a higher melting point than PLA. I run 250C nozzle, 90C bed, .4mm nozzle at 103% flow on my Ender 3 Pro with tempered glass plate.

EDIT: I wanted to add the PETG brand I use. Overture came with a resealable bag for the PETG and an adhesive build plate that works great with their products. I also wanted to mention that I found last night that large prints with the above specs was causing bubbles in the base layer. Switched to a 100% flow with a slightly thinner base layer. Print the bubbles was showing on was a larger 6" x 3" print and the cross layer was creating bubbles. Thought it was my cooling fan setting, but those adjustments didn't do anything.
 
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Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I just got my Ender 3 pro last night and I’ve been running it nonstop with the regular PLA I bought for it. My two year old just thinks that the blue cat and dog I printed for him are the greatest things ever!

Thank you guys all for posting your stuff and convincing me to finally get a 3D printer!! This is the best $200 I’ve spent in a long time.
 
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ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the suggestions. I just got my Ender 3 pro last night and I’ve been running it nonstop with the regular PLA I bought for it. My two year old just thinks that the blue cat and dog I printed for him are the greatest things ever!

Thank you guys all for posting your stuff and convincing me to finally get a 3D printer!! This is the best $200 I’ve spent in a long time.
They can be very handy to have. Since Kaleb has his at college, I've been thinking that I need to get one for home.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
I've been playing with prototyping a bottom mount headlight bracket for 5.75" motorcycle headlight housings...
upclose... not sure I would trust this density, but willing to try printing at a 45 degree angle and full density to give it a shot before fabricating a full metal version...

I've not the STL or G-Code a.t.m.... will edit it in later :- )
 

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Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
I just dont if I'd trust the printed bracket when at speed for the headlight. There's a long moment on that bracket with wind forces, vibrations, gusts, G-forces being applied to the headlight. But you have the prototype and know it fits! Maybe send the file in to have it CNC'd out of aluminum.

I had thought about it for my dominator headlights as well but seeing how other printed parts have cracked or delaminated under bolt heads and washers, I changed my mind.
 
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