Dan's #495 build (2006 SS/SC)

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TheAnesthetist

Active Member
Should I replace the rear main seal while I have the flywheel off? It looks to be in good shape and is bone dry. I hate to mess with a functional seal
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Probably sort of a coin flip at that mileage whether I would replace. How much are you going to hate having to pull it later if it leaks and what is your tolerance if it starts to drip a little.
 
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TheAnesthetist

Active Member
All good points. I think I'm going to leave it. With my intended use case for this car, I probably won't put on more than 1,000 miles per year. Seems unlikely to become an issue anytime soon.
 
RobC76

RobC76

Well-Known Member
TheAnesthetist said:
Made good progress this weekend. Got the floor on with no drama. Wife and kids got in on the action. The kids loved using the riveter. Turns out I'm missing the baggie with the brake tees so I'll have to go back and finish that up.

Got the pedals and steering mounted. Ordered a new all-metal Dorman clutch master cylinder that is much more durable than the plastic OEM one.

With the brake fluid reservoir relocated, am I supposed to use the hard plastic tubing on the brass fittings? I just want to be sure I'm using the right tubing that will stand up to brake fluid. I've looked at a bunch of y'all's build logs and it appears to be the right one.
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What color is your frame powder coated? It looks great! Intense blue prismatic?
 
Sparvy

Sparvy

Active Member
Sebnuts said:
Corbeau has baseplates with sliders included, cheaper than the planted tech ones, but also require a little shenanigans to make them mount solid.

I was eyeballing these because they're really cheap for the pair, but not sure about quality or fitment.
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Do the corbeau bases/sliders mount up to the corbeau seats or is there another adapter that is needed. I contacted corbeau and according to them the side mount seats won't work with these sliders.
 
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TheAnesthetist

Active Member
Today was a big day. I had an unexpected day off from work so I spent 9 hours working on the car.

Fuel tank mounted with not much to report.

Laid the wiring harness in the car and plugged up all the stuff in the front half of the car. I just need to figure out a good way to route the wires that go through the bulkhead so they stay clear of the heat exchanger. I'd also eventually like to do a battery cutoff switch but that might wait until the next off season.

Finished up replacing the clutch. I ordered a lightweight flywheel but the bolt holes didn't line up with the crank. You can see it when I stack it on the stock flywheel. Returned that and ordered an OEM replacement.

Wrestled the transmission back onto the engine and got everything torqued down only to discover that I had forgotten the spacer . On the plus side, I'm now pretty good at removing and remounting this transmission! Replaced the starter since it seemed like a good idea while it's easily accessible.

Then it was just a matter of lifting the back of the car and rolling the engine into its new home.

Next up is to connect all the plumbing and shorten the power cable. I've decided to ditch the PEX tubes since they're so much smaller diameter than the hose they attach to. Seems doomed to leak. I'll be using heater hose in the tunnel.

My kit was missing the baggie with the brass brake tees so last week I mounted the front suspension just so I could make some kind of progress.
 

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Robinjo

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
The flywheel bolts in but has like one or two hole orientations that work. It would have worked, just had to keep rotating it and trying the holes. Next time mine is off I need to mark it, it took about 45 minutes of starting bolts until I found the right orientation. It can be a bit frustrating.
 
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TheAnesthetist

Active Member
Tried a first start today with no luck. Everything powers on with the key. Gauge lights up and says "POWER STEERING" And "ENG PWR REDUCED". When I press the clutch and turn the key I can hear a relay click in the BCM but no response from the starter. I have 5V at the fuel pump and 12V at the starter. No voltage at the little post on the starter when the key is turned. No response from the butterfly when throttle is pushed. I'm pretty sure everything is grounded as it should be. I assume jumping the + and - posts on the starter won't help other than to verify the starter works. Any thoughts?

Edit: I also have what looks like a security warning light on the dash. Little car and padlock. Goes away when I turn the key but comes back as soon as I release it.
 
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TheAnesthetist

Active Member
I have 4 plugged in. Turn signal indicators on the dash light up when I engage the stalk. There is a blue plug with heavy gauge red and black wires on the EPS unit that is not plugged in but I assume that went to traction control? I put my ear close to the EPS unit and hear a relay click when I turn the key to ON
 

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Robinjo

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I would have it tested. Plug in that other EPS plug too. Have all the main items plugged in. I think I had two plugs to the ignition switch, also. Check your grounds as well. Make sure all the ground lugs are very clean of paint.
 
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