Eric's Track Goblin - 06 SS/SC donor

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Esstover

Well-Known Member
Posted some of my steering wheel issues on another thread, but wanted to also note it in my build log.

the piece that should fit the steering shaft spline us to small? Are there different size splines for different models? Attached photo shows my part pieces. The shaft is a larger diameter. @Adam and @Lonny ? I’m also looking for a photo of how all those pieces go together. @Ross provided a thread on the quick disconnect piece but I can’t figure the rest out.
 

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SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Can you post a picture of your current set up. If I’m not mistaken there are 2 shafts that mate together. Maybe you have them backwards
 
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Esstover

Well-Known Member
Been awhile since I have gave an update. Got the frame and parts to the powdercoater. Went with Columbia Coatings Toxic Lime. Happy with the color and pretty happy with the quality. While the frame was off I decided I didn’t like the Duplicolor Engine Primer color so I opted to pull the wiring back off the engine and go Duplicolor Engine Low Gloss Black. Very happy I did. I also painted the backside of the fiberglass pieces black. After getting the frame back I got the hoses pulled and the floor pans on. I decided to go with clear silicone on the floor pans instead of the recommended black sticky stuff. Not sure if that was a good idea, but I had a fit with the rivets because my tool is garbage, so I was glad to not be fighting that also. I’ve made it few some of the first assembly videos, so far no major issues. It seems like I my brake line is a little to long. I’m also just following the videos right now but I did buy the proportioning valve so I’ll probably have to go back and rework things later when I decide to install it. Attached some pics below.

also I decided to start posting in instagram. I’m a newbie. Right now I’m posting old photos until I get caught up. Feel free to follow and like @just_a_wv_guy
 

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Esstover

Well-Known Member
Wiring help!!

So I got the engine in and subframe bolted up. Mounted the fuse box and plugged in what I thought I needed. Ran hoses for fuel and to the overflow bottle. Put some oil in, coolant in, and some gas. When I turn on the key the lock actuates on the key mechanism and then I hear a click at the BCM. Doesn’t sound so much like a relay clicking as it does something is short. I pulled the plugs off the BCM and checked grounds back to the battery. Some PINs indicated they were hot side of battery. Most rang out but there was a small pink/white that didn’t. I think it was on the red plug. Anyway I have a lot of troubleshooting to do. Wanted to put this out there incase there was something stupid I was missing. I did push the clutch in. I also check and I have power back to the fuse box. The fuel pump relay never engaged.

couple updated pics below.
 

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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Red wires on a Cobalt are typically "battery positive voltage" wires, then once they go thru a fuse, are
Red wires with a White stripe. If they also go thru the run/start relay, then they are typically
Pink wires, that are switched by the key.
 
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Esstover

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
Red wires on a Cobalt are typically "battery positive voltage" wires, then once they go thru a fuse, are
Red wires with a White stripe. If they also go thru the run/start relay, then they are typically
Pink wires, that are switched by the key.
Click to expand...
Good info. I’ll try to run that down to see if a fuse is blown and that’s why the red/white is not hot.
 
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Esstover

Well-Known Member
I'm doing a poor job of posting, but I am making some slow progress.

GOOD NEWS! I got her to start. My problem? The fusebox wasnt seated all the way down on the plugs. Next problem? a lot of air in the coolant lines. Next problem? instead of using the self-tapping screw for the radiator fan wiring i put it under the nut that holds the bushing for the radiator. Apparently that is not a good place for a ground (duh).

Some times the car seems to idle okay, other times not. It is running really rich. I haven't installed the other heat exchange yet and so that pump is unplugged. I want to get that plumbed up next so I can let it run for awhile and see what's going on. Do most people just run with the stock tune in the PCM? or will i need some corrections just based on the new placement of the O2 sensors (they are pretty close together now)? Would also be nice to get rid of any alarms associated with ABS and Evap since I wont have that.

Other than that I have installed a few random items.

Shifter assembled, but I know have idea how to adjust and get it to function properly. I'm running the DF Shifter. Anyone have a good recommended buildlog to follow for adjust that?

boost gauge installed, I'm a little curious how people mounted this. seemed obvious but the gauge is crooked. (Photo attached)
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOyNB2v_7Tho9aI_aJLh0HncCyh44F0e6rj4k9q
DF steering wheel installed, everything needs snugged up. I also added some spaced between the frame and the power steering pump mounting bracket to help the angle of the shaft through the front panel. I recall seeing photos of someone else who did that. Want to find that picture sometime and verify I did it the same way. (Photo attached)

Started installing the button panel but I'm missing two 2.5" screws for the bottom. Need to start wiring this.

Passenger foot panel, probably a bad idea to go ahead and install this, but i did. The package came with several spacers. Were they intended to put a space between the frame and the bottom of the panel where you use the self tapping screws? If so it doesnt give much thread left in the screws.

Next steps....

Get the heat exchanger installed and functioning.

Wheels are on order, AVID1 AV20 Bronze 17x8 on front, 17x9 on rear. Local tire shop has the tires waiting for when they come in, Nitto NT555 G2 245/45R17 front, 275/40/17 rear

Need to start assembling suspension
 

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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
ABS codes can’t be turned off by normal tuning device, only the check engine codes. If you aren’t running a catalytic converter your 2nd o2 sensor isn’t really doing anything, all it’s used for oem is to check for catalytic efficiency. The 2nd sensor ihole is there for a wideband o2 sensor.
As far as actually tuning, I think all Goblins could benefit from tuning, although I haven’t seen enough tunes and logs to say how much benefit. If nothing else, a lot of the SS cars have been messed with previously by people that might not have known what they were doing.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
As far as the shifter installation, a quick search - using the magnifying glass in the upper right corner - would get you to this thread that talks about the shifter (and parking brake handle).

The search function can also help locate several discussions about the steering shaft interference and what builders did to remedy this - some did firewall trimming and other repositioned the steer column.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Esstover said:
I'm doing...
Do most people just run with the stock tune in the PCM? or will i need some corrections just based on the new placement of the O2 sensors (they are pretty close together now)? Would also be nice to get rid of any alarms associated with ABS and Evap since I wont have that.
Click to expand...
I would guess a lot of people are running the stock tune in the PCM. You don't need corrections for the O2 sensor.

My main benefit for purchasing HP Tuners is fhat I discovered I had a bad intake pressure sensor. The new sensor allow the stock LSJ to run with a lot more power!

After tuning the LSJ, I did find the tune was out up to 15% in some data cels... but the PCM does have the ability to adjust the fuel trims, so it will correct those data cels. I was also able to turn off some of the red lights on the dash.

Main reason for purchasing HP Tuners is to allow for bigger injectors, and a whole bunch more engine modifications.
 
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Esstover

Well-Known Member
Update.

Purchased and received wheels and tires. Went with AVID1 AV20 Matte Bronze 17x8 front 17x9 rear. Nitto NT555G2 245/45/17 front, 275/40/17 rear.
Got brakes installed and proportioning valve.

Open problems
passenger mirror blinker works properly, drivers mirror blinker does not.
cooling loops are leaking slightly
brake pads from kit for front appear to be incorrect size

Next steps
bleed brakes and adjust shifter
wire rear brake lights and license plate light
Need to acquire rivnut tool.
begin the search for my Wing
start planning wrap
order headlights
 

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