Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

snirtman

Well-Known Member
On the LH side I reused the Cobalt hose on the head and coupled it with one of the hoses included in the kit (I forget which one)
The hose I used on the LH side of the engine was the 71796 S-shaped hose that DF supplied to be used on the radiator:

40736


The radiator was almost the last part I installed on my car, so I didn't realize I installed the "wrong" hose on the engine. I just bought another 71796 hose off Rock Auto for the radiator. Everything fits pretty well, mostly looks like it was made to go where it is, and doesn't leak. Done.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Went and did some work looking over 3 of the 4 bcm plugs. Green is not cut, orange is spliced together, red is cut and grey is not there at all. Notice anything red that shouldn't be?

View attachment 40725
View attachment 40727
View attachment 40728

I took the two cut low speeds and connected them haphazardly to the green on the dash button wire. This yields only one change I can see and thats the tire pressure light on the dash blinking now... I disconnected them for now, the day is over for me and I have to retire to bed soon



Its gone unless its part of stage 2, which I only have stage 1 parts.

Edit:
View attachment 40729
one green is for the DRR and the other is VCIM I guess?
View attachment 40730
On thing you can do is compare your plug outlets to Bar-Air's pin maps to see if something is amiss. It is for a 2008 2.2 Auto so should be very lelevent.


Joe
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Things just went from bad to worse.

Went and decided to spend a hour tonight during my work week to start unwrapping parts of the harness. I turned the BCM around to prepare and I guess a bare wire touched ground or something. I heard a loud pop and saw a fuse blow, I replaced it and turned on the car.

Now there is no more engine warning light and the throttle nor fuel pump respond. Great. Code reader stating lost communication with things in every direction.

Great.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Darn. What fuse blew? A BCM isn't all that expensive at a auto yard. The BCM is where the OBDii port goes to first.
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Darn. What fuse blew? A BCM isn't all that expensive at a auto yard. The BCM is where the OBDii port goes to first.
Fuse 23 and I moved fuse 20 to 23 to test, will be grabbing an assortment tomorrow. Right now I am pretty hopeless

40751
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
23RDO FuseRadio, Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) (AUO)15A

Another challenge to overcome, making the accomplishment of building your own car more precious. You will win, we will help. A used BCM comes with a new odometer reading on the instrument cluster, and the opportunity to reprogram a PK3+ security key, which takes ~40 minutes.
 
Last edited:

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I’m not sure how shooting a fuse for the remote receiver/radio would ruin a bcm. Then again I don’t know why we keep the remote receiver unless it’s so those running stock wheels keep the tpms. Maybe there was another function we need, but I can’t find anything in the service manual to indicate what it might be.

this might be as simple as loose connections at the bcm. I’ve struggled with that some. Even when the lock is closed on the connector, it doesn’t make a great connection.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I’m not sure how shooting a fuse for the remote receiver/radio would ruin a bcm. Then again I don’t know why we keep the remote receiver unless it’s so those running stock wheels keep the tpms. Maybe there was another function we need, but I can’t find anything in the service manual to indicate what it might be.

this might be as simple as loose connections at the bcm. I’ve struggled with that some. Even when the lock is closed on the connector, it doesn’t make a great connection.
I took out a bunch of fuses at one time that didn't have to do anything with the Goblin, or so I though. I couldn't get the thing to fire so I put them all back in. It would start then. I think some of the fuses do dual functions that aren't listed out on the spec sheets. Another example was the no start issue I and another member had that was all down to a blown fuse (#8 Ign/PK3?) that was on the BCM. If you turned on the lights then back off, it would start with the blown fuse.

I concur with the loose connectors. I had another no start issue and no data that was from not tightening down one of the fuse box connectors completely. I thought I had, but I hadn't gotten it tight. Every time I take these off I worry that it won't make a good connection again.

True, it could be a lot of things... BCM is just my guess, not a fer-shur. Could start with a ODBii port check.
I would check all connection and fuses before going this route personally. Not saying the BCM isn't fried but there a re a lot of free things to check before trying parts. Including that huge 50-amp fuse by the battery.
 
Last edited:

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
Fuse 23 and I moved fuse 20 to 23 to test, will be grabbing an assortment tomorrow. Right now I am pretty hopeless

View attachment 40751
Ouch! This moment hurts for sure! The bright spot in this project is that they are modular. Sorry I cannot can't put a "happy face" on this moment. The nearest I can come to "a positive" is reminding all builders of the fact that "project cars" usually started with a "doomed car"! That is the challenge. Keep trying! Keep reporting as accurately as possible! Here's hoping that whatever you discover helps those builders coming up behind you. Noting that you have chosen to take on a project of this scope shows you are persistent. Our dreams will require great persistence or will remain only dreams. Hoping you get a good break soon!
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Poked and prodded it with a stick this morning. The ecm plug was loose. I forgot I was in the middle of pulling it off to check the wiring. Things are back to the way they was before the popped happened.

I will unwrap the harness a bit more

For now I just want the gas needle to work. One step at a time. I'm off to work.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
This has gotten sort of drawn out. Without reading through this again, are you not in a no start or barely running condition? Why are you hung up on a Fuel gauge?
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
This has gotten sort of drawn out. Without reading through this again, are you not in a no start or barely running condition? Why are you hung up on a Fuel gauge?
I have a no start and no relay click sounds when turning the key, the starter turns the engine when I jump it at the box, the engine doesnt turn over this way (dunno if it would if it could this way?). Just seems odd that I can read the fuel % at the obii but not on the gauge and it seems on the simpler side till I have a whole day off and I am off friday so thats when I will poke at the no start issue. Very happy though with everyones help though :D
 

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
Poked and prodded it with a stick this morning. The ecm plug was loose. I forgot I was in the middle of pulling it off to check the wiring. Things are back to the way they was before the popped happened.

I will unwrap the harness a bit more

For now I just want the gas needle to work. One step at a time. I'm off to work.
Very Refreshing! Thank You for not allowing ego to muddy the questions! This little hic-up may help someone else tame their Goblin. Well Done!
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Chase the main problem (no start) and the gauge issue will probably resolve itself. I'm pretty sure the car will run without the instrument cluster even being plugged in.

You really need to be more precise in your descriptions. I can't tell from you first sentence exactly what is happening.
"I have a no start and no relay click sounds when turning the key, the starter turns the engine when I jump it at the box, the engine doesnt turn over this way (dunno if it would if it could this way?) "
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Chase the main problem (no start) and the gauge issue will probably resolve itself. I'm pretty sure the car will run without the instrument cluster even being plugged in.
2010 (manual) 2.2, can confirm. Will run without. I don't use one.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I had difficulties reading Fenix's reply too.
I have a no start and no relay click sounds when turning the key, the starter turns the engine when I jump it at the [rear fuse] box, the engine doesnt turn over this way [you just said the starter turns the engine, so it does turn over. I think you are trying to tell us it doesn't start running.] (dunno if it would if it could this way? [My LSJ can start this way]). Just seems odd that I can read the fuel % at the obii but not on the gauge and it seems on the simpler side till I have a whole day off and I am off friday so thats when I will poke at the no start issue. Very happy though with everyones help though :D
So you have tested that the engine will crank if you jump the relay at the rear fuse box, but not when you turn the key. This helps isolate the problem.
The starter works, the wiring to the relay works. Do you have a wiring diagram for your car?

Is the ignition key providing 12V+ to the ignition switched fuses? On my LSJ it will power up these 5 fuses:
40759


Is the fuel injectors and ignition coils getting power? On my LSJ it would power up the INJ [injectors] fuse.
40760


Ideally, an OBDii reader would tell us if the PCM is seeing any issues. Are there engine codes that could help us?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Looking at the previous page, he has data/comms issues (that might be caused by modules not getting power) and some P codes, but not any that would keep things from trying to start.
 

Dale E

Well-Known Member
@Fenix Nexen --- In post #253, you wrote/said " the starter turns the engine when I jump it at the box, the engine doesnt turn over this way (dunno if it would if it could this way?)"

So, does the starter turn the engine when solenoid or relay is jumped?? Or it doesn't turn the engine??

This so confused me!!

Do you have a large negative battery cable attached to the bellhousing and the chassis under the fuse box/or somewhere on the chassis for grounding?
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
@Fenix Nexen --- In post #253, you wrote/said " the starter turns the engine when I jump it at the box, the engine doesnt turn over this way (dunno if it would if it could this way?)"

So, does the starter turn the engine when solenoid or relay is jumped?? Or it doesn't turn the engine??

This so confused me!!

Do you have a large negative battery cable attached to the bellhousing and the chassis under the fuse box/or somewhere on the chassis for grounding?
I had difficulties reading Fenix's reply too.
Chase the main problem (no start) and the gauge issue will probably resolve itself. I'm pretty sure the car will run without the instrument cluster even being plugged in.

You really need to be more precise in your descriptions. I can't tell from you first sentence exactly what is happening.
"I have a no start and no relay click sounds when turning the key, the starter turns the engine when I jump it at the box, the engine doesnt turn over this way (dunno if it would if it could this way?) "
Sorry for the confusion

Turning the key in the ignition to get the starter to crank does nothing...
Jumping the starter relay at the fuse box makes the starter crank the engine...
Prolonged attempts of cranking does not cause it to turn over and run...
There is a thick ground from the bellhouse going to a ground stud under the fuse box...
I will stop worrying about the fuel gauge!
I am not using EVAP
The donor started and ran fine without the MAF
All the ground studs have been cleaned up with a wire brush thoroughly

Codes are..
P0102 MAF sensor circuit low frequency
P0113 IAT sensor circuit high voltage
P0443 EVAP purge solenoid valve control circuit
P0449 EVAP Vent solenoid valve control circuit
P0452 fuel tank pressure sensor circuit low voltage

I will write up a little report of what fuses get power when the key is on late tomorrow or friday when im off work

I have access to alldata for my donor.

I did a little ramble on a video, its not the greatest:

 
Top