High speed instability
- Thread starter Whidbey Goblin
- Start date
A couple of things...
First, my tie rods are actually angled up just slightly toward the wheel. However, I'm unsure how to get them any lower.
Which leads to my next issue, my set up is not exactly as the factory setup is, as I have the tie rod mount in the upper hole in the front, and the lower hole in the rear. This is going to put the actual tie rod end link at the lowest position possible, unless I drill some additional holes.
The only thing I could do would be to swap the aluminum Mount brackets from left to right, since they are actually slightly tapered. That would put the tie rod a little lower, and therefore a little more level.
First, my tie rods are actually angled up just slightly toward the wheel. However, I'm unsure how to get them any lower.
Which leads to my next issue, my set up is not exactly as the factory setup is, as I have the tie rod mount in the upper hole in the front, and the lower hole in the rear. This is going to put the actual tie rod end link at the lowest position possible, unless I drill some additional holes.
The only thing I could do would be to swap the aluminum Mount brackets from left to right, since they are actually slightly tapered. That would put the tie rod a little lower, and therefore a little more level.
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Trying a suspension simulator can help better understand how it should be set up properly and see how bumpsteer occurs. This one is free and a works reasonably well.
The key is to have the tie rods (some call them toe rods) to travel in the same arc as the rest of the front suspension. That technically translates to no bumpsteer, all things considered.
The key is to have the tie rods (some call them toe rods) to travel in the same arc as the rest of the front suspension. That technically translates to no bumpsteer, all things considered.
Try increasing your caster to 10 degrees you will need to reset your camber and toe. This should help get rid of bump steer.
Have you replaced the rubber rear control arm bushings with the Moog steel spherical bushings?
Also is there any chance you have the toe link rack installed upside down?
Have you replaced the rubber rear control arm bushings with the Moog steel spherical bushings?
Also is there any chance you have the toe link rack installed upside down?
Attached is a picture of my set up. Front one on top hole, rear drilled slightly lower than stock bottom hole. On one side the drilled hole overlapped the stock hole so I added a plate to lock it down.
What is Lonny calling the toe rack link? If he’s talking about the steering rack, can it be installed more than one way?
What is Lonny calling the toe rack link? If he’s talking about the steering rack, can it be installed more than one way?
I would like to say that I will have the new rear suspension production ready for sure by next spring, but time just send to fly by.
We are getting close to finishing the the instructional video cars. This will free up a lot of time.
I have finished redesigning the rear suspension and as soon as the material arrives I will fabricate two prototypes for testing. This should happen in the next few weeks and will give us a better idea of a production time frame.
We are getting close to finishing the the instructional video cars. This will free up a lot of time.
I have finished redesigning the rear suspension and as soon as the material arrives I will fabricate two prototypes for testing. This should happen in the next few weeks and will give us a better idea of a production time frame.
10-4. I thought you were talking about the front and I thought I might have something wrong since my bump steer was pretty bad on initial set up.
DCMoney
Goblin Guru
This makes my week! Looks awesome! Know you don't have the engine/transmission mounts shown yet but are you planning on adding mounting options for the sway bar?
DCMoney
Goblin Guru
Still needs somewhere on the subframe to hold the sway bar and bushings down.
