Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC

JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Thanks Sasquatch.
I assume anything could be possible. Just did not know how tough, or if it would be worthwhile.
My son and I recently finished a J32 Acura engine swap into his Mazda Miata. The intake was custom to clear the hood. It was a radical departure from the original which was symmetrical on the transverse mounted engine.

A question un-asked will never get discussed!
 

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JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Thanks. I will take that as one heck of a compliment from you, sir! We really got our feet wet with that one. Still have a minor list of some small things to clean up. Never really done, right?
I am hoping to "stay in the lane" of the Goblin project to begin with and get it done and running. Maybe after that, start doing some smaller modifications. Nothing major, though for sure.
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
OK. Sitting around and thinking too much. Reading about PCV valves, carbon gunk build up on intake valves, oil in the intake plenum, etc. Trying to understand all the other guys in the forum and their insight into what the heck is going on with pressure, vacuum, and the ventilation of such back into my glorious combustion chamber. My donor only had 82k on it, so there are several things I thought would not be an issue. PCV valve and crud on the intake valves turns out to be a worry. I took off the intake today and found maybe not as much as others, but way more than I would like. One of the articles I read somewhere said if the PCV valve does not function properly, then pressure can build up and cause the valve cover to seep / leak. I had that. I just thought that it was a bad valve cover gasket. Already replaced it. But now, I think it may be a result of the PCV valve not working properly. The valve is only $5. So, Rock Auto gets an order today. New intake gasket as well. I am surprised looking at the crap I found. The engineers had to know this was going to happen!!??
See pics. A couple other threads are also discussing related issues and possible solutions.

IMG_7544.jpgIMG_7545.jpgIMG_7546.jpgIMG_7547.jpgIMG_7548.jpgIMG_7550.jpgIMG_7551.jpgIMG_7552.jpg
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
I cleaned up the intake with the carb cleaner below. It melted the gunk easily in a minute. I assume if you spray it into the intake with the engine running coating everything, shut the engine off for a while to soak in, then fire it back up, it would flush through the stuff no different than CRC or Seafoam.

IMG_7553.jpgIMG_7554.jpg
 
Waterdriver

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
JBINTX said:
OK. With the internal PCV valve, there still would need to be some drilling and tapping. Is that part of what you were envisioning?
Click to expand...
No, you don't when running a filter. I'm running what's considered a Stage 2 LSJ and just installed a filter. Your just not getting a vacuum to draw out the oil vapor/gases, which can rob you of power and gunk up things.
If running high horsepower levels then yes, you'd need to be able to vent the additional gases from blowby with a bigger venting system.
Compared to others, your head looks relatively clean.
 
P

Parson Green

Well-Known Member
If a boosted Ecotec engine is consuming oil at a near-zero rate (i.e., if the level on the dipstick is virtually stable), wouldn't one pretty much have to conclude that very little "bad crankcase stuff" is traversing the PCV valve into the intake manifold? Methinks yes.

Additionally, wouldn't the blocking off said valve render inoperative the various (apparently effective) measures designed into the engine for the express purpose of minimizing said traversing? Methinks yes.
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Parson Green said:
If a boosted Ecotec engine is consuming oil at a near-zero rate (i.e., if the level on the dipstick is virtually stable), wouldn't one pretty much have to conclude that very little "bad crankcase stuff" is traversing the PCV valve into the intake manifold? Methinks yes.

Additionally, wouldn't the blocking off said valve render inoperative the various (apparently effective) measures designed into the engine for the express purpose of minimizing said traversing? Methinks yes.
Click to expand...
Not sure at the rate the oil is being consumed, but the fact that there are pools of it in the intake tells me it is too much. Pics 6&7 above show the pooled oil.

GM engineers designed an awesome engine. But, then they had to add the environmental systems so they could meet emissions testing (not because these systems were adding durability, reliability, etc.). These additional systems are not necessary, nor advantageous for making clean horsepower. GM would never post a "how to" manual to delete or bypass these systems. Too many lawyers to stop that from happening. So, if we are able to register these Goblins in a state where there will not be any emissions testing, then I would think it worthwhile to modify (delete or bypass) them in the best way possible. Worth exploring, at least!
 
Waterdriver

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Maybe that's why it looked so clean in the pictures, the fresh oil! :eek:
I didn't see the pooled up oil the first look around.
Due to the location of the PCV inside the cover it could be picking up oil under hard cornering, with having vacuum there, sucks that oil into the intake track. Common issue on the 1.8 Audi.
If wanting to keep on the emissions side of things, Air oil separator would be the choice.
Example: https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/moroso-pcv-air-oil-separators/part-type/oil-catch-cans

You'll want one that is not just a can but has media inside of it that the air so the oil vapor in the air attaches to the media and forms droplets then collects in the can. Drain spout make it easy to drain into empty beer cans. :p
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
I guess the real beauty to the Goblin is that we all get to customize things exactly the way each of us wants to.
Granted there are "best practices" for certain systems. But, ultimately one can paint his frame urban camouflage if one wishes! :)
I really appreciate all the input and differing perspectives here. Keep it up guys!!!!!
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
The clutch pipe goes through the black plastic pitting which is fitted in the transmission housing. The pipe inserts into the elbow on the outside of the housing, then. Is there a rubber o-ring missing here? Or does the clutch pipe just snap into the black plastic fitting and leave a plastic to plastic seal (not a water tight one at all)?
I thought I read somewhere there was a little rubber seal/ring that seems to get lost easily. Not sure if mine was non-existent, or I was the one who lost it.
Help?
IMG_7564.jpg
 
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