Jay’s Build Log- Track Goblin, extended #323, 07 SS SC

jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
jayrolls said:
Assembly Day -16
Its been a productive day. Set the rear camber @ Neg 1.5 on both sides. Adjusted the front camber to the same Neg 1.5. L/F had to turn the heim joint out about 2 1/2 turns, R/F had to turn 1 1/2 turns out. My toe plates didn’t get here yet, so I am just kinda eyeballing it. For the most part I feel I have the steering wheel pretty centered and tracks pretty good in the neighborhood.
Tapped the tunnel and ran allen screws to secure the tunnel cap. Went rather smooth, the far back two were a little harder, self imposed due to having the rear bulkhead already installed.
Installed the passenger seat, bolted both seats down. Op-check of the passenger heated seat checked good. Notched the footwell cover to clear the clutch master cylinder and clutch and brake hoses. Still need to drill holes to be able to zip tie in place.
Ran the power wires to the AEM air/fuel meter. Tied in at the BCM using a fuse adapter to have key on power.

Another few steps forward and 1 step back. So it appears transfer case out out shaft seal that goes on the right cv shaft. Needless to say, when I got the new shafts I did not realize this was a thing. While cleaning up the garage today, noticed it on one of the old shafts. So it looks like I am going to have to pull the R/R so I can install.
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Been a minute since posting. Slow going now that it’s High School wrestling season. Coach Life.
Got the out put shaft seal installed. Got the hood and engine panels back from getting wrapped. Got the windshield bracket installed on the hood and the hood on. Ready to get my vin inspection and send paperwork to Montana.
 

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jayrolls

jayrolls

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Took the Goblin out yesterday for a little run, did great on the way to our friend's house. Left late and it was cooler and damp humid out, car ran like crap. Had trouble getting it started, was sputtering and falling on its face. Got warm and then seemed to be better on the ride home. I have taken it out a couple times today and attempted to get some data logs. First my AFR gauge with pass through caused there to be no data displayed on VCM scanner, so these two runs are with the AFR not pulled in with HPTuners. If anyone could please take a look at the data logs as I honestly don't know what i am really looking at yet. Just that it doesn't seem like she is running the best that she could. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
jayrolls said:
Took the Goblin out yesterday for a little run, did great on the way to our friend's house. Left late and it was cooler and damp humid out, car ran like crap. Had trouble getting it started, was sputtering and falling on its face. Got warm and then seemed to be better on the ride home. I have taken it out a couple times today and attempted to get some data logs. First my AFR gauge with pass through caused there to be no data displayed on VCM scanner, so these two runs are with the AFR not pulled in with HPTuners. If anyone could please take a look at the data logs as I honestly don't know what i am really looking at yet. Just that it doesn't seem like she is running the best that she could. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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I put the OEM tune on yesterday and let sit overnight to test my cold start symptoms again. Tired to start and engine sounds like it is sucking in air and fails to start and run. The 3rd start it sputters and then stalls, the 4th start it will start and stay running and is drive able. Didn’t take it out tonight, a little colder than I would like. Starting to wonder if it’s fuel related. Like it takes some many starts because it is building fuel pressure.
 
jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
Gtstorey said:
Does it not have a fuel pressure sensor?
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Not to my knowledge. I will check ALLDATA and also see if that is something I can see in VCM scanner. I may have to use an old school fuel pressure gauge and check it on the cold start symptoms.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
As far as I know the SS/TC is the only Cobalt with a fuel pressure sensor.

I know on the first key-on (without hitting the starter) the fuel pump primes in my car. I can't remember if I can prime the fuel pump more than once without starting (by going key on engine off - key off - key on engine off), and unfortunately my car is apart so I can't test for myself. If you can prime the fuel pump more than once, does that impact starting?

Did you put a new fuel filter on your build? Any other fuel system modifications, like a boost reference pressure regulator?
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I added a fuel permanent fuel pressure gauge to my '96 Corvette since it was fuel injected and doesn't monitor. I think keeping watch on fuel pressure is even more critical on forced injection.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Jay, I took a look at your xmas log file. Do you have a wideband logged? I am only seeing the stock narrowband. I see your long term fuel trims are indicating your engine is wanting to run rich at low manifold pressure (20 - 50% of atmospheric or 3 to 7 lbs/in^2), so the LTFT are near -20.
Not sure what that means, or even if it is significant.

This summer my fuel system stopped keeping pressure when the engine is turned off. I am guessing there is a check valve that has failed in my fuel system... but I hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key. If I turn the key to crank the engine before the fuel pump gets up to pressure, my engine won't start. If I turn the key on, wait 3 seconds for the fuel pump to get up to pressure and stop pumping, then turn the key to crank the engine, it starts every time. Not sure if this is your issue, but try it.

You local auto part supplier can probably loan you a fuel pressure gauge for free. My engine runs 59-63 PSI fuel pressure, only dipping slightly under full throttle. I used my AC gauge to monitor my fuel pressures for a quick test. Had to drain fuel out of my gauge set afterwards. :(
 
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jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
Rauq said:
As far as I know the SS/TC is the only Cobalt with a fuel pressure sensor.

I know on the first key-on (without hitting the starter) the fuel pump primes in my car. I can't remember if I can prime the fuel pump more than once without starting (by going key on engine off - key off - key on engine off), and unfortunately my car is apart so I can't test for myself. If you can prime the fuel pump more than once, does that impact starting?

Did you put a new fuel filter on your build? Any other fuel system modifications, like a boost reference pressure regulator?
Click to expand...
It’s a new fuel pump with maybe 20 test miles now. I did a new fuel filter with the build, I didn’t do a boost ref system. I did install a new fuel rail, pressure regulator and new injectors.
Plan is to out a fuel pressure gauge in and follow the troubleshooting steps in ALLDATA. That will hopefully either confirm a bad pump or if I eliminate an item.
 
jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
Jay, I took a look at your xmas log file. Do you have a wideband logged? I am only seeing the stock narrowband. I see your long term fuel trims are indicating your engine is wanting to run rich at low manifold pressure (20 - 50% of atmospheric or 3 to 7 lbs/in^2), so the LTFT are near -20.
Not sure what that means, or even if it is significant.

This summer my fuel system stopped keeping pressure when the engine is turned off. I am guessing there is a check valve that has failed in my fuel system... but I hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key. If I turn the key to crank the engine before the fuel pump gets up to pressure, my engine won't start. If it turn the key on, wait 3 seconds for the fuel pump to get up to pressure and stop pumping, then turn the key to crank the engine, it starts every time. Not sure if this is your issue, but try it.

You local auto part supplier can probably loan you a fuel pressure guage for free. My engine runs 59-63 PSI fuel pressure, only dipping slightly under full throttle. I used my AC guages to monitor my fuel pressures for a quick test. Had to drain fuel out of my guage set afterwards. :(
Click to expand...
Ross,

I bought the wrong AEM AFR with the obd2 pass through, I can only watch it as I run it. I will give it a test if I turn key on and wait for the pump to stop priming. If that doesn’t do it I will get a pressure gauge and test.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
jayrolls said:
Ross,

I bought the wrong AEM AFR with the obd2 pass through, I can only watch it as I run it. I will give it a test if I turn key on and wait for the pump to stop priming. If that doesn’t do it I will get a pressure gauge and test.
Click to expand...
Jay, which model is the 'wrong' one - that I assume doesn't have data logging?
 
jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
Where to start:
1- Installed a new fuel pump 2 weeks ago after some testing of the old one. It is putting out better pressure. The old pump was only putting 40lbs key on, engine off. Helped a little bit, still was taking 3 attempts to get it to start.
2- Have been getting a code for the mass air flow sensor. Order new maf housing with straightener and MAF sensor. Installed both today.
3- Just got new zzp header and my exhaust back from JET-HOT and installed.

Now she won’t start. Cranks no start. Started at the fuel pump because I changed it recently. I am getting good key on engine off pressure 50psi. As soon as the pump stops running the pressure immediately drops to zero. This is an issue, but I don’t think that is my no start problem. When cranking, gauge pressure on the rail reads 50psi. And keeps reading it as long as it cranks. So I would think that I have good pressure to at least start. I have the DF MAF housing and old sensor back on and it makes no change. I have tried with the MAF unplugged just to see, didn’t make a difference. At this point I am thinking I have a fuel issue, the wife got home and was able to help. I got some throttle body cleaner and sprayed the intake while the wife cranked. Still not starting. Now I think i have an ignition problem. If anyone has any thoughts I’m all ears.
 

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