Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

Ross

Goblin Guru
Your oil pan has 14 small bolts, #15 is longer, and there is 2 big bolts going sideways into the bell housing?
Bolt #4 is kind of hidden on my LSJ oil pan. I used a green circle on the pic to show where the hidden bolts are.
45930
45931
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
3 side bolts, and a dipstick tube.
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4 holes heading toward the bell housing.
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Oil drain plug and 2 more bolts on this side.
45940
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Thanks Ross. Yeah bolt 4 got me at first too, but I did get all of them before attempting to pry anything. I have 14 short bolts + 1 long + 2 transmission bolts. Shes just on there good. Hopefully that bladed tool works out
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
The drain plug was stuck in so I got the smart idea to tap it. The tap worked and I got a big bolt in there. I used 2x4s as a shim and made a crude bearing puller. It worked!... But snapped the remainder in two. I said screw it and ordered a $65 pan.

In the meantime, I'm working on something fun. I got some 8AN hose, and I'm (hopefully) making a flexible dipstick to replace it. Then I can check the oil with the engine covers on and everything. 8AN fits perfectly over the dipstick tube itself as it is ~0.5". I used a flaring tool and flared the tube I cut off. Throw on a regular AN fitting and you have yourself an adapter!
signal-2024-03-12-18-45-04-935.jpg

signal-2024-03-12-19-04-41-106.jpg
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Flexible dipstick tube didn't end up working out. The fitting were too long. I ended up just modifying the dipstick tube gently in a vice. Its in a good position and secure now.

I also almost have my radiators added to the heat exchanger loop. Pics to come when its all done. I would like to consult the collective wisdom of the forum though. Do you think its better that the radiators go in parallel or series? I definitely can't guarantee that both loops have the same length of hose, so one rad would see more flow than the other. Due to this imbalance, I opted to go series for now, but I would like to hear your opinions.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I would think series, because in parallel, water (like electricity) will go in the path of least resistance. You may not get much of any flow out of one verses the other.
 

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Couple updates. Crank is off getting keyway extended. Hopefully will have it early next week.

I *did* end up getting 3 main bolts from OTTP. No callback or anything. Just got a shipping email and they showed up the next day.

While I wait I want to work on my piston/rods. What ring gaps are y'all running? I misplaced the documentation that came with the Wiseco. This is their chart and TBH I'm not sure which application to select. I assume I would want to fall on the larger side if anything for safety.
View attachment 39688
Where did you get keyway extended?
Thanks
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Got my new exhaust back from Redbeard Fab (https://www.redbeardfabricationoh.com/). Tory did a great job building an exhaust off my measurements without having the car on hand to reference. Turned out great! Its 3" stainless all the way, with a 3" Vibrant bottle resonator, and a 4" tip. Its very deep at low load, but a bit Honda boy at WOT. Overall I'm happy with it, as it looks 1000 times better than stock.

signal-2024-04-08-21-10-03-922.jpg
 

ToothMagician

Well-Known Member
Got my new exhaust back from Redbeard Fab (https://www.redbeardfabricationoh.com/). Tory did a great job building an exhaust off my measurements without having the car on hand to reference. Turned out great! Its 3" stainless all the way, with a 3" Vibrant bottle resonator, and a 4" tip. Its very deep at low load, but a bit Honda boy at WOT. Overall I'm happy with it, as it looks 1000 times better than stock.

View attachment 46667
Super clean! That manifold and exhaust look so good. Post up an audio or video file, if you can, so we can hear it
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
I guess I'll share a little bit about what I've done with the sidepods. The background is, I wasn't really happy with the stock positioning of the DF Heat Exchanger for multiple reasons.
  • Its right behind the radiator and tends to heat soak from it
  • It requires tubes to be stuffed into the tunnel
  • Its hard to get clean, cold air to the heat exchanger (without NACA ducts)
  • I can't run NACA ducts and a hinged hood effectively
So, I went down the route of adding sidepods. I own a Suzuki DRZ400. One of the reasons its a great bike is because its been the same for 20 years. Parts are cheap. I decided using DRZ400 Radiators would be a good start. They are compact and cheap ($60 for a mid tier set).

I made some aluminum brackets with SendCutSend and mounted them on each side:
46690


These will eventually be encased with fiberglass so they look nice, but only if they work well enough. The radiators are each 120mm wide, so a standard computer or server fan(s) will work. For now, while it is not super warm outside, I am running it fanless. Yesterday it was 65-70F and cruising my IAT2's were ~85-90F after it was fully warmed up (and heat soaked). If I'm in the city or just idling it expectedly rises in temperature to 110-115F. Being that cruising temps are already ~20F over ambient I'm not sure that these are sufficient. I'm really debating buying something like this to measure the IAT and IAT2 (since my ECU can't do both, I rewired 1 to 2). I'm curious how much its actually heating up the air. It could be that the air intake is just pulling warm air from the engine bay. I started building an air box for the intake for this purpose, but there's just not all that much room to make it happen. I think that's the route I'm going to go for now, because I don't think there's any benefit to adding a fan as it won't allow for any additional airflow, except at slow speed.

Anyway, more to come soon.
 

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
I guess I'll share a little bit about what I've done with the sidepods. The background is, I wasn't really happy with the stock positioning of the DF Heat Exchanger for multiple reasons.
  • Its right behind the radiator and tends to heat soak from it
  • It requires tubes to be stuffed into the tunnel
  • Its hard to get clean, cold air to the heat exchanger (without NACA ducts)
  • I can't run NACA ducts and a hinged hood effectively
So, I went down the route of adding sidepods. I own a Suzuki DRZ400. One of the reasons its a great bike is because its been the same for 20 years. Parts are cheap. I decided using DRZ400 Radiators would be a good start. They are compact and cheap ($60 for a mid tier set).

I made some aluminum brackets with SendCutSend and mounted them on each side:
View attachment 46690

These will eventually be encased with fiberglass so they look nice, but only if they work well enough. The radiators are each 120mm wide, so a standard computer or server fan(s) will work. For now, while it is not super warm outside, I am running it fanless. Yesterday it was 65-70F and cruising my IAT2's were ~85-90F after it was fully warmed up (and heat soaked). If I'm in the city or just idling it expectedly rises in temperature to 110-115F. Being that cruising temps are already ~20F over ambient I'm not sure that these are sufficient. I'm really debating buying something like this to measure the IAT and IAT2 (since my ECU can't do both, I rewired 1 to 2). I'm curious how much its actually heating up the air. It could be that the air intake is just pulling warm air from the engine bay. I started building an air box for the intake for this purpose, but there's just not all that much room to make it happen. I think that's the route I'm going to go for now, because I don't think there's any benefit to adding a fan as it won't allow for any additional airflow, except at slow speed.

Anyway, more to come soon.
This is sooooo Cool! Lovin' it!:cool:
 
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