KSLunsfo - Extended Track - '10 SS/TC

KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
You got your engine started? Congrats!
Click to expand...
Thanks! Yes, after a few seconds of filling the fuel rail it fired right up. Once I get caught up I need to come back with a more thorough update post.

BTW, the revving to (~4K in my case for a few seconds) did the trick on getting the coolant flowing!
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Figured I would come back with a more detailed update. I did get the car started up for the first time, it was good to hear it run after so long.

I got the AN main water lines finished off, ended up with 3x 120° -16 fittings and 1x 30° fitting (passenger front) all with AN to 1.25" barb adapters. I was able to use all DF provided hoses with this configuration, just had to cut them a bit more.

Finished the battery shutoff switch install:
19468


While installing the solid motor mounts it seemed to me as though the edge of the front mount was preventing the face of the plate from bolting up completely flush to the mount point on the transmission. So, I shaved a small amount off and hit it with a bit of primer and paint. Not sure if it's small enough that people haven't noticed it or just didn't care. Or somehow I'm a special case, which probably wouldn't be a new thing...
19469


I struggled with installing the sub frame quite a bit, especially trying to do so without scratching up all of my fresh powder coat.

The process that ultimately worked for me (sort of highlighted with the following pictures):
1.) Mounted the sub frame by all 4 main bolts (all left loose)
2.) Supported the rear with a jack and removed the 2 rear bolts
3.) Installed the front solid mount (left loose)
4.) Installed the rear solid mount (left loose)
5.) Installed the rear 2 main bolts (the most difficult part by my 140lb self flexing the frame into place to get the bolts started)
6.) Torque all

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I used the following hose for the coolant reservoir. I had to cut several inches off the long end and a bit off the short end but seems to work well. There are other hoses that people have referenced here that I was going to try, the local auto store just didn't have those. This is a Dayco PN 80404.
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Night prior to the morning of first startup. Yes, there's no clamps on any of the intercooling or intake piping yet. But it's good enough for idling in place.
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Received my Corbeus just a couple days after the first startup.
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Currently, I'm just waiting on a pile of small stage 2 items that is currently at the powder coater. Once I get all of that back, there should be another small leap of progress in the next couple of weeks.
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
KSLunsfo said:
Figured I would come back with a more detailed update. I did get the car started up for the first time, it was good to hear it run after so long.

I got the AN main water lines finished off, ended up with 3x 120° -16 fittings and 1x 30° fitting (passenger front) all with AN to 1.25" barb adapters. I was able to use all DF provided hoses with this configuration, just had to cut them a bit more.

Finished the battery shutoff switch install:
View attachment 19468

While installing the solid motor mounts it seemed to me as though the edge of the front mount was preventing the face of the plate from bolting up completely flush to the mount point on the transmission. So, I shaved a small amount off and hit it with a bit of primer and paint. Not sure if it's small enough that people haven't noticed it or just didn't care. Or somehow I'm a special case, which probably wouldn't be a new thing...
View attachment 19469

I struggled with installing the sub frame quite a bit, especially trying to do so without scratching up all of my fresh powder coat.

The process that ultimately worked for me (sort of highlighted with the following pictures):
1.) Mounted the sub frame by all 4 main bolts (all left loose)
2.) Supported the rear with a jack and removed the 2 rear bolts
3.) Installed the front solid mount (left loose)
4.) Installed the rear solid mount (left loose)
5.) Installed the rear 2 main bolts (the most difficult part by my 140lb self flexing the frame into place to get the bolts started)
6.) Torque all

View attachment 19470

View attachment 19471

View attachment 19472

View attachment 19473

I used the following hose for the coolant reservoir. I had to cut several inches off the long end and a bit off the short end but seems to work well. There are other hoses that people have referenced here that I was going to try, the local auto store just didn't have those. This is a Dayco PN 80404.
View attachment 19474

Night prior to the morning of first startup. Yes, there's no clamps on any of the intercooling or intake piping yet. But it's good enough for idling in place.
View attachment 19488

View attachment 19476

Received my Corbeus just a couple days after the first startup.
View attachment 19477

Currently, I'm just waiting on a pile of small stage 2 items that is currently at the powder coater. Once I get all of that back, there should be another small leap of progress in the next couple of weeks.
Click to expand...
I finally see where you battery disconnect switch is located up at the battery box. Not sure how you will be activating the switch all the way up there with the hood in place, unless you do it with your toes?:rolleyes::D
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Desert Sasqwatch said:
I finally see where you battery disconnect switch is located up at the battery box. Not sure how you will be activating the switch all the way up there with the hood in place, unless you do it with your toes?
Click to expand...
Part of me wanted it sort of hidden anyway, but I did a test reach if you will (before permanently locating it)... leaning into the car from the passenger side I can easily reach it with my right hand.
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
comegetjoe said:
Why, may I ask, did you not install the floor pan earlier?
Click to expand...
That question came up before in my build thread. Since I installed rivnuts for the floor pans among other things, I can easily install it at pretty much any point. It has been beneficial at different times to climb into the car (straddling the square floor tubing) to work on different things.
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Next update...

I've now installed suspension and brakes all around with lines connected, just need to get my hands on some line clamps now. I still have to install the parking brake cables, I opted to buy new cables @ ~$12 per cable from Rock Auto since mine were a bit rough.

Floor pans and firewall panels finally in, driver's seat loosely bolted in, steering wheel installed.

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I didn't like that the ball bearings for the steering column were exposed, so I replaced it with a shielded bearing from McMaster Carr.
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Main remaining items before a first drive (in no particular order):

Install Tilton brake/clutch fluid reservoir and get it connected up to the master cylinder.
Add fluid and bleed clutch/brake systems.
Gear oil for the trans.
Driver's seat belt.
Get KTuned shifter working (custom pieces and purchased components).
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
KSLunsfo said:
Next update...

I've now installed suspension and brakes all around with lines connected, just need to get my hands on some line clamps now. I still have to install the parking brake cables, I opted to buy new cables @ ~$12 per cable from Rock Auto since mine were a bit rough.

Floor pans and firewall panels finally in, driver's seat loosely bolted in, steering wheel installed.

View attachment 20108

View attachment 20109

I didn't like that the ball bearings for the steering column were exposed, so I replaced it with a shielded bearing from McMaster Carr.
View attachment 20110

View attachment 20107

View attachment 20111

Main remaining items before a first drive (in no particular order):

Install Tilton brake/clutch fluid reservoir and get it connected up to the master cylinder.
Add fluid and bleed clutch/brake systems.
Gear oil for the trans.
Driver's seat belt.
Get KTuned shifter working (custom pieces and purchased components).
Click to expand...
Do you have steering column bearing PN?
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Also forgot to include this small tidbit.

A good way to cleanly and precisely cut couplers is using some round object (PVC in this case) matching the ID of the coupler, then tightening a clamp in place to use as a guide for your exacto knife or razor blade. I did this after getting the cut close and then this method allowed me to trim just a small amount more to get the throttle body elbow such that it's not rubbing on the fuel tank.

20114
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Got the remaining items knocked out to get to first drive...

Tilton reservoir installed using OptimiePrime's 3D printed bracket.

Ktuned shifter installed and operating on a 3D printed prototype custom 'non-reversing' lever for the front/back motion. I Intend on making a permanent steel version in the not so distant future.

Had the alignment pretty close (relatively speaking) before ever setting it on the ground, just a couple turns of all tie rods with a cord and the car seems to track perfectly straight already. I will get in a more thorough alignment job in the coming weeks/months.

Got the car on wheels for the very first time and completed the first mile of driving.
Drove in first and second gear and even got a tiny bit of boost in. And already excited a large group of kids in the neighborhood with my oversized go cart.

So far the only negative I can say is brakes, which is unusually common here it seems. I'm not sure if it has something to do the brand/manufacturer of the calipers or what. But it seems I have a very slow leak at one of the front bleeders, any tighter and I feel like I'll risk stripping the threads. Also, the pedal doesn't seem to do much until the very bottom of the pedal travel. However, it's probably safe to say I still need to do some bleeding on the brakes. I am also not currently using the vacuum assist at all on the booster, the port on the intake manifold is plugged and not connected to the booster.


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KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Guess an update is well overdue...

I received my Montana tag just shy of a month ago and have since drove back and forth to work numerous times, through various fast food drive-thrus, short visits to a few different stores etc. I would roughly estimate I've logged just under 100 miles or so since being registered. I've even been bold enough for a couple really short trips on the interstate. So far I'm LOVING it. I will briefly outline my Montana registration experience in another post.

I've completed the following since the last update in no particular order. I've also left off many smaller, less notable actions.

-Painted and installed the muffler
-Installed remaining firewall panels/hood/side panels (made threaded 'sandwhiching' bar for bolting on the DZUS plate to the hood)
-Cut custom rubber floor mats
-Installed all mirrors/lights etc. using various Deutsch connectors
-Installed hand brake
-Procured rear wing mounts
-Forming of the windscreen bracket, bending tabs to lay the windscreen back to match A-pillar angle (still a work in progress)
-Made prototype cardboard roof (considering smoked polycarbonate for permanent roof)

Very first road drive was to a Bojangles.
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Couple of slightly older photos:
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0.5" gym type rubber mat material.
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DZUS bar goes on the underside of the hood, threaded "sandwiching" bar goes inside the hood. Threads are M6.
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CAD.... meet CAD....
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Came out short on the width due to a mistake in cutting it out, but the 3D model should be spot on. Some may find it interesting that this double layer cardboard roof is surprisingly solid at 80mph.... Over half of my miles have been with this temporary roof.
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KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
OptimizePrime said:
Noice! What wheel and tire setup you thinking about?
Click to expand...
That's a really good question... I still haven't nailed down if I want a square or staggered setup. Either way I know I want at least 9.5 to 10" on the rear and thinking 18s though you make 19s tempting :p.

It's likely to be a while before I buy wheels with numerous other things going on.
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Here's a (somewhat) brief rundown of my Montana Registration experience:

I won't go into much detail since there's already a detailed guide put together by OptimizePrime found here:
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/guide-montana-registration.1971/

Documents required for submitting to the registering agent (I also used "All day 49$ Montana Registered Agent LLC"):

1. Notarized bill of sale (signing MCO from myself to my business)
2. Inspection checklist: Unconventional Vehicles (self signed)
3. Odometer Disclosure Statment, MVR-180
4. Vin Verification form, MV20 (where the most time and heartburn occurred for me)
5. Business card from inspecting officer
6. Original MCO from DF

For the Vin verification, I submitted a form online for the local License and Theft agency. A couple weeks later I receive a call from an inspector looking to set up a time to look at the car. The conversation is going well up until he begins asking if I already filled out a particular NC form. At this point I informed him the car will be registered in Montana and there's a Montana form I need filled out. His initial response was that they don't fill out forms for other states. Numerous different times he would ask why I'm registering it in Montana and not NC, and I want to say because NC is a PITA! But I simply maintained my composure and polite demeanor and said it's how I want to do it and it will be used to promote my business...

So, he escalates it up the chain of command and after a few conversations on different occasions and a month or so of time later he finally agrees to come inspect the car.

Once he arrives and I make it out the door he's already walking around the car checking it out. He seems interested/impressed and curious about it and even asks if the wheels were off of an SS. So, he's seemed like a car guy anyway. He also asked about how water proof the thing would be... pointing to the BCM and such in the foot well area. Eh, I don't really intend on finding out...

I had a form that I began filling out already, but he said he had a printer and can do it all electronically so it looks nice. So, he beings filling out the form electronically, asking occasional questions about dimensions and such. After a little while he comes back out of the car and hands me the completed form. Buuuut I immediately spot an issue, he has it written out with me as the applicant and not my LLC. I mention it needs to be my LLC and he says he can't do it because the MCO is made out to me... So I'm thinking great.... still not going to get this done. But after a moment or 2 looking at it I realize something, this particular section explicitly states TO BE FILLED OUT BY THE APPLICANT. I point that out to him, he looks at it for half a second and says "you're right" and proceeds to delete that section and reprint the form.... I asked for a business card and he was on his way....

The inspector was always polite enough and seemed to be actively working on it, even though I did start losing hope right around the 1 month mark. I can only assume this process was a bit new to him and he felt uneasy about it thinking it was something sketch or shady.

Insurance (surprisingly the least painful part of this whole process for me anyway):

Couldn't have been more than 15 minutes on the phone and I was done. I went through my local agent Superior Insurance, with National General and underwritten with Integon Preferred Insurance Company. I also have motorcycle insurance through this same agent. Liability only, 30$/mo.
 
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