Lokian's Extended Street Gob in Indiana - 10 LS # 251

Ross

Goblin Guru
Your 2010 LS needs the MOOG K200792 part number (not the K201285 that fits my 2006 ss).
Well, OTTP makes Spherical Control Arm Bushings as well. They are $150 for two, and the MOOG ones are $17.50 each,
Interesting that the OTTP ones say "Vehicle Fitment: 04+ Ion, 05+ Cobalt, 06+ HHR with aluminum control arms". Not sure if they will fit your 2010 metal control arms.
 

Lokian

Well-Known Member
Got the initial tear apart going. So far seeing some things that will need replacing... and pondering more ways to spend monies :cool::oops:. I made a You tube vid to decide if I want to video log the build. It's a few minutes of my hobbling around on a bum leg but if interested ... Video - Phase 1

The finished product after phase 1.
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Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
Got the initial tear apart going. So far seeing some things that will need replacing... and pondering more ways to spend monies :cool::oops:. I made a You tube vid to decide if I want to video log the build. It's a few minutes of my hobbling around on a bum leg but if interested ... Video - Phase 1

The finished product after phase 1.
View attachment 18341
That’s one clean looking donor! If you’re not reusing the hubs from your donor switch to the back and get the fuel tank out now. It will be way easier with the front end still on. Checkout my post in my build log.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
List the things you want to replace so we can let you know if you need to or not. Some things you won’t need and some will be replace, that’s in the kit. Just trying to keep you from spending money if you don’t need too.
 

Lokian

Well-Known Member
Well another day in the books. Thanks to Goblin Graber
That’s one clean looking donor! If you’re not reusing the hubs from your donor switch to the back and get the fuel tank out now. It will be way easier with the front end still on. Checkout my post in my build log.
Got the fuel tank out and ready to be worked on.

Also got fenders, doors, seats, off. So far need to add a fuel filter to the list... and what looks like all new hubs.
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Lokian

Well-Known Member
Updating the needs list.


Running list of items to do and figure out.

  • Clutch
    • clutch
    • throw out
    • pilot
  • Engine maintenance prior to install
    • rear main seal
    • timing set
    • water pump
    • spark plugs
    • O2 sensor
    • serp belt
    • bushings
    • tie rods
    • Fuel Filter
    • Hubs
  • Seats - would like ones that I can slide back and forth
  • parking brake
  • Rims and tires
    • tires - r888 or N05
If anyone has suggestions or items to add please do so.
 

Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
Making good progress! Don’t forget the filler neck. I took my fuel tank out last and it was super sketchy with the front on the ground and the back in jack stands.

I’m a fan of Nittos myself so the NT05 gets my vote. I’m using mine for a street car so I went NT555 G2s. Didn’t want super sticky tires throwing all the rocks on the road around here.
 

Rauq

Well-Known Member
Also got fenders, doors, seats, off. So far need to add a fuel filter to the list... and what looks like all new hubs.
Not sure if this has been carried through completely as proof, but we have reason to believe that rear hubs off of a non-ABS mid-2000s Malibu are a direct fit. They should obviate the need to mod the hub to remove the wheel speed sensor connector to clear the front steering arm and seal the inboard side of the bearing. My car came with 12 wheel studs, 11 lug nuts, and growled like a mad cat going down the road so I'm planning to order all new wheel bearings and will attempt the Malibu rears in the front of my kit.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I have those NRG with sliders and love them. I’m 5’10” 250# on a standard frame, but wish I got the extended frame for a touch more wiggle room.
 

Lokian

Well-Known Member
Started taking the front apart more. So I have a few questions.

1. What brake part comes with the kit? I'm thinking about getting the parking brake add on as well. I will need the following.
  • Calipers
  • Rotors
  • Hubs (currently running 4 x 110's)
  • axles
  • bushings
  • tie rod ends
  • sway bar link and possible sway bar...
  • odds and ends needed to complete the parking brake kit.
2. Dropping the motor. Did any of you do it without an engine hoist? I have a tractor with front loader but that will be a tough fit in the garage. Any insight?

Thanks as always guys :)




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Ross

Goblin Guru
  • Calipers (My SC kit came with 4 new calipers, I also had the parking brake option)
  • Rotors (came with 4 new rotors)
  • Hubs (Keep the 4 Cobalt parts)
  • axles (The front hubs are the axles, you don't need the rear axle, just the hubs)
  • bushings (What bushings?)
  • tie rod ends (You need the Cobalt ones)
  • sway bar link and possible sway bar... (The Goblin doesn't need the sway bar in the rear, so skip it. Just my opinion, others keep it)
  • odds and ends needed to complete the parking brake kit. (You need the SS cables, aluminum tubes for the cables, & handle,
2. Dropping the motor. (I used a come-along attached to the ceiling. Have done this many times. If you can access the ceiling joists, just span 5 of them with some lumber and attach the come-along to it)
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Drop the front of the donor to the floor, remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe to the chassis (along with all of the wiring, hoses and all other items keeping the engine and transmission in the car), and lift the rest of the car off the drivetrain assembly. Hint, you can cut the front sheet metal cross members off the front end and push the rest of the car away.:)
 

Lokian

Well-Known Member
  • Calipers (My SC kit came with 4 new calipers, I also had the parking brake option)
  • Rotors (came with 4 new rotors)
  • Hubs (Keep the 4 Cobalt parts)
  • axles (The front hubs are the axles, you don't need the rear axle, just the hubs)
  • bushings (What bushings?)
  • tie rod ends (You need the Cobalt ones)
  • sway bar link and possible sway bar... (The Goblin doesn't need the sway bar in the rear, so skip it. Just my opinion, others keep it)
  • odds and ends needed to complete the parking brake kit. (You need the SS cables, aluminum tubes for the cables, & handle,
2. Dropping the motor. (I used a come-along attached to the ceiling. Have done this many times. If you can access the ceiling joists, just span 5 of them with some lumber and attach the come-along to it)
Bushings I mean all the control arm rubbers and ball joints. Thank you.
 

Lokian

Well-Known Member
Drop the front of the donor to the floor, remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe to the chassis (along with all of the wiring, hoses and all other items keeping the engine and transmission in the car), and lift the rest of the car off the drivetrain assembly. Hint, you can cut the front sheet metal cross members off the front end and push the rest of the car away.:)
That is a great idea for cutting the front off. Also like the ceiling and come along idea... might try a combo of both :)
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Makes it real easy to get the drivetrain out of the chassis.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Bushings I mean all the control arm rubbers and ball joints. Thank you.
Oh. I put in the MOOG problem solvers (Control Arm Bushing MOOG K201285). The stock ones were too soft, and causing rear steer problems. Still have the stock front bushings, as they weren't bad.
 
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